Curved Staircase

[nuge]

I am going to look a a railing job next week and it contains the dreaded curved staircase. I have some ideas as far as how to approach this but whats your technique? Any tips from measuring to fabrication would be great to hear.

[arftist]

See if you can sell them on a solid round bar handrail. That is the easiest whether you are experienced or not. Don't think of it as "dreaded", think of it as challenging, and know that you can do it. It they won't go for round bar, report back and we'll get some tips going your way.

[cavala]

they are tricky, I usually do a template of every tread marking at two points and getting the height. When i take it back to the shop i tape it all back together lining up the reference points. I then build a full sized jig and mark all my tread heights on it weld on some angle to represent your tread and there you have it. With enough leverage and some heat and lots of clamps the radius shouldnt be too difficult bending it manually.
I use 1" sq tubing for the jigs and reuse them as much as possible
If your ceiling dosent allow for the full jig cut it in half.
Now if you dont have a steel plate on the floor thats gonna make the jig a problem. Im sure someone may have a better idea

[nuge]

Nice, keep it coming!

[youngdylan]

Come on y'all were's the advice.....

I've done a couple of "spiral" (helical) balustrades but I'm still at the bottom of the learning curve. I'd like to get into the top end market with"grand" staircases. Looking for advice on how to get the lower rail to closely follow the stringer maybe sit on it), then make a matching top rail, then asemble them up as a framework that won't distort to/ from the workshop or with any welding riviting etc that goes on in the "infill"

Any advice on wooden/ bronze handrails or companys (in the UK) that supply or fit them.

ALL nuggets of information gratefully recieved no matter how small

Nuge, if you've any specific questions I might be able to answer thm using my limited experience

[Dillon Sculpture]

We always build on site (stage up) when there is a bottom rail. The panels are cross braced and removed to fill in the lettuce ($) at the shop. Panels are broken into manageable sizes 6' 250 pounds with bolt connections so no welding is done when the home is finished. I have some photos somewhere I'll try and find.

[Mainely,Bob]

It`s real important for me to set reference points,usually at least 3 so I can triangulate each measurement.
For the steps some key points are the start,stop,center point and distance between floors or decks.
I make sure to check everything for square,plumb,level and note any variations from it.If anchoring to the tread then measure distance from center and amount of rotation from your known point to each anchor point and drop(or rise) from last known point.If anchoring to an apron(the vertical that runs perpendicular to the tread following the path of the handrail)then as long as the apron(what we called it,I`m not sure what the joiners called it)is a consistent radius(check it) then you have more wiggle room.

As mentioned,do what you can on site and in order to maintain those parameters while adding "lettuce"(we called it fruit salad) and final welding be sure to get references for the assemblies too.We used thin ply and "joggle sticks" to chart this and transfer it to the jig.Once you`re used to them,joggle sticks and story sticks are more accurate than a tape is,especially if you "burn and inch" (or in my case ten,it`s easier to spot a potential mistake).

The whole point to making all these measurements and reference points is to recreate the space in the shop.Do whatever you need to in order to achieve that.If you`re careful and accurate then as long as it doesn`t spring too badly when you release it from the jig then it will fit on site.If it does spring(don`t just cut it all loose,release in increments) then you still have the jig to anchor and bend from and the reference points to aim for.
Correct welding sequence will minimize distortion as you know.

That`s all I can remember right now.Hope it helps.
Spiral stairs can be a real challenge.I like to come well armed. :)

[youngdylan]

Spiral stairs can be a real challenge.I like to come well armed.

Sure are. afor-warned is afor-armed

[Dillon Sculpture]

Good point on the reference points Bob, we usually mark every 2' plum lines on the top and bottom rail both sides. As well we take a measurement from the top end of one panel to the bottom end of the second panel diagonally, so we can put two panels together in the shop and recreate the curve. All post should be welded in plum during the stage up, a good sight reference is the door jams and other architectural features in the home.

[Mainely,Bob]

Now that you mention it,I completely forgot about the sight references!

One thing I learned when working with boats,old buildings and other things not plumb,level or square is to be prepared to build to visually blend with the big picture.
If nothing is plumb,level or square and you build your work to look that way then it can only stand out as something that does NOT belong.
As my co-worker,Hey Jude,used to say"Build to suit or take another route".

[Glenn Gilmore]

Danger Dillon is the man that knows curves. Tell us more. Also good info in Peter Parkinson's book.

[youngdylan]

Danger Dillon is the man that knows curves. Tell us more. Also good info in Peter Parkinson's book.

I've had the good fortune to go an Weekend couse on design run by Peter Parkinson. T'was money VERY WELL SPENT

[Dillon Sculpture]

Danger Dillon is the man that knows curves. Tell us more. Also good info in Peter Parkinson's book.

Glen is that bronze?

Here is one for you, 200' double, the stair wasn't finished when I started but everything came together in the end.

One of Glens (big bob) panels can be seen at the top of the stair, there were two. You have any photos?

[Glenn Gilmore]

Glen is that bronze?

Here is one for you, 200' double, the stair wasn't finished when I started but everything came together in the end.

One of Glens (big bob) panels can be seen at the top of the stair, there were two. You have any photos?

Here are photos of my panels in the railing. Michael did a great job on the railing.

[Glenn Gilmore]

Michael,
The railing in 1st photos is steel with a patina finish. Detail of corner. Also photos of fireplace doors done in Bronze to mimic a cast bronze sconce in clients room. All bronze forged from rounds.