Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Tire Hammer Hub

Recommended Posts

I have collected almost all of the parts listed in the book I purchased from Clay.
I have also been all over the web looking at some Tire Hammers with small modifications.
Has anyone successfully mounted the tire with out turning the
inside face out.
Also I have noticed that a few have gone in different directions with the mounting and construction of all the toggle arms.
I would appreciate any infomation that I could get. My main purpose is to shorten the distance that the unit stands out from the main column.
Thanks RAKessler

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...


There are always a FEW that do something different and want to reinvent the wheel. I have one of 17 power hammers that was built last year in South Carolina. Clay Spencer was there to oversee the construction process and put his approval on each one as he tested them. One welding glitch had to be corrected and a random drawing was done to assign each of the 17. If you follow the plans and keep it lubricated you will have what the machine was designed and built to do. Take the easy way as, it is a proven system.

Aiken Village Blacksmith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My tire rim doesn't have the inside face out. What is the problem your thinking will occur? My entire hammer is inside of 2 feet deep. As far as reinventing the wheel, when using scrounged parts to make anything, reinventing is common place. When researching for info before my built my hammer I learned that there is a hundred different ways to build the arm assembly. Or we could all just give our money to Clay and buy all his stuff and do everything the way he thinks it should be done and stop thinking for ourselves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

I bought one a while back and love it. It was built at a workshop Clay held. The only faults I found with it is that it realy needs 3/4" to 1" thick base plate and the motor mounts are spot welded on and need a little reinforcement. That and a thick concreat slab realy help out.

Not a fault of the hammer, but all 1 horse motors I've seen have a thin spot welded base. A piece of flat bar welded to the motor housing and base stiffened it up nicely. Just got to be quick and not burn the motor up. I've had a couple power hammers that use the motor as a clutch and they all wound up needing reinforcement due to the spot welds breaking and the motor peeling back from the force of contacting the tire/belt/whatever.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


If you are using a steel plate as a crank welded to the rim per Clay's plans, having the wheel with the front out may interfere with the plate. Also the hub may stick out to far for the plate. Other crank schemes could get you around that problem. Another way to move the wheel back is to go with the Northern Tools alternative axle/hub since that setup allows you to move the tire closer to the column.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...