rakessler Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 I have collected almost all of the parts listed in the book I purchased from Clay. I have also been all over the web looking at some Tire Hammers with small modifications. Has anyone successfully mounted the tire with out turning the inside face out. Also I have noticed that a few have gone in different directions with the mounting and construction of all the toggle arms. I would appreciate any infomation that I could get. My main purpose is to shorten the distance that the unit stands out from the main column. Thanks RAKessler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aikenvb Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Rakessler: There are always a FEW that do something different and want to reinvent the wheel. I have one of 17 power hammers that was built last year in South Carolina. Clay Spencer was there to oversee the construction process and put his approval on each one as he tested them. One welding glitch had to be corrected and a random drawing was done to assign each of the 17. If you follow the plans and keep it lubricated you will have what the machine was designed and built to do. Take the easy way as, it is a proven system. Aiken Village Blacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GobblerForge Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 My tire rim doesn't have the inside face out. What is the problem your thinking will occur? My entire hammer is inside of 2 feet deep. As far as reinventing the wheel, when using scrounged parts to make anything, reinventing is common place. When researching for info before my built my hammer I learned that there is a hundred different ways to build the arm assembly. Or we could all just give our money to Clay and buy all his stuff and do everything the way he thinks it should be done and stop thinking for ourselves. Gobbler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will52100 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I bought one a while back and love it. It was built at a workshop Clay held. The only faults I found with it is that it realy needs 3/4" to 1" thick base plate and the motor mounts are spot welded on and need a little reinforcement. That and a thick concreat slab realy help out. Not a fault of the hammer, but all 1 horse motors I've seen have a thin spot welded base. A piece of flat bar welded to the motor housing and base stiffened it up nicely. Just got to be quick and not burn the motor up. I've had a couple power hammers that use the motor as a clutch and they all wound up needing reinforcement due to the spot welds breaking and the motor peeling back from the force of contacting the tire/belt/whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will52100 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Here's a pic of mine and what I did to the motor housing. This is before I repainted it and moved it to my new shop. The linkage at the back and the base plate I welded it too are from a "Rusty" hammer that I built that never performed to my satisfaction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twcoffey Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 Rakessler, If you are using a steel plate as a crank welded to the rim per Clay's plans, having the wheel with the front out may interfere with the plate. Also the hub may stick out to far for the plate. Other crank schemes could get you around that problem. Another way to move the wheel back is to go with the Northern Tools alternative axle/hub since that setup allows you to move the tire closer to the column. Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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