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There is a book titled (The $50.00 Knife Shop) by Wayne Goddard. That book give a lot of information for a low buck start out knife making shop. While the rr spikes are a good try the book points out other ways.

Rock Star: Thanks for your input. I saw the wooden wheel but didn't understand why, but now I do understand, thanks JP. jimbob I have met Wayne and traded with him at the Madison Ga and Sofa confrences. I did see his machine but didn't pay that much attention to it at that time. Now I understand that the grinder is mutifuctioning and will probably persuit the multistages to have it all. Keep those card & letters coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks to all

I have been considering building a 2" X 72" belt grinder/sander from the 50 page plans of the "No Weld Grinder" that are found on the "USA Knife Maker Supply" web site. Since I have the machines I will weld and machine the frame components but will buy the wheel assemblies. I am looking for any input in the construction or modifications that I might consider. Send Help.

Pinjas: Don't even think of an old tig welder or even a used one. You have a $1,500.00 price limit. Go on ebay and look for the best price on a Miller Dementions. This is a new welder that miller makes in the mid-$1,300.00 range, delivered to your door. If you can go to a miller factory demonstration like at a Blacksmith regional conferance, Let them demo it then use it. The new machines are much, much, much better.

Rakessler: There are always a FEW that do something different and want to reinvent the wheel. I have one of 17 power hammers that was built last year in South Carolina. Clay Spencer was there to oversee the construction process and put his approval on each one as he tested them. One welding glitch had to be corrected and a random drawing was done to assign each of the 17. If you follow the plans and keep it lubricated you will have what the machine was designed and built to do. Take the easy way as, it is a proven system. Aiken Village Blacksmith

Pinjas: I do a lot of Tig welding. I do race cars, airplanes, Tool steel and lots of walk in projects. Take Freelance Fabber's advise. Check out the Miller Diversion. I used one at three different Miller demonstrations. I have the Miller dynstay 300 and the dynasty 200 that I used almost every day. The Diversion was built for persons like you. It is the only way to go for a beginner Tig Welder. Check with Miller to see if there are going to be any demonstrations of the Diverson in your area and go use one. The people there will guide you through it. Two other things with tig welding, if you need reading glasses be sure to get a pair of reading glasses to weld with and second get a good light weight welding helmut with an auto-darkening lens. Spend good money on a helmut, look a the Miller selection. As you can tell I am a Miller fan. I have tried others but always came back to Miller. I have Miller Tig, Mig and Plasma cutters. Check the Tig welding prices on Ebay. I think you will find that you can get one delivered to your door for around $1,350.00. This is where I have found best prices. Once you have accomplised the Tig you'll be able to do steel, stainless, aluminum, brass, bronze, titainium and combinations. When you have a question or advise on welding you can call the toll free tech line for Miller Good luck and remember, Practice, Practice and etc.

Does anyone know of a good igniter system for a gas forge? I am using a propane torch now but would like to install a good igniter system. Richard

Thanks Much. I think I'll leave it alone and just pack the grease cups. Richard AVB:)

I picked up a very nice Champion 400 forge blower at an auction. It seems to be in great shape and puts out great air. I tried to put gear lube in it at the top. The oil ran out like a screen door on a submarine. It appears to be comming out from behind the impeller main shaft. To clean it I had the front cover off the blower housing and I cleaned the impeller. I looked at it and didn't try to take the impeller off. I wasn't sure if after taking the end hex nut off, if the main shaft was threaded or the impeller was pressed onto the main shaft. Now I need to know if there is a seal of some type that would be behind the impeller? Is the impeller pressed or threaded onto the main shaft that is a bolt going through the bottom of the case? What do you do to get the impeller off the shaft with out damaging the impeller or the shaft? Richard, The Aiken Village Blacksmith, Aiken SC :confused:

Avadon: Sorry about that, try ER90SB3, I got it at Air Gas in Harrisburg PA. CORRECTION!!!!!!!!!!!!

You might consider a table made to what ever size and height you need (Make It Bigger) and use box tubing. One by two or one by three, eigth inch wall depending your expected progect weight. First make the outside frame and get it straight checking with string and levels. then put in cross stringers. One down the long middle then side stringers about every twelve or eighteen inches between the middle & sides. This gives you multiple options during use. With no flat table in the way you can adjust heights & positions in all directions and you will have welding & measuring access in all directions. If you need a flat surface you could put a piece of plywood in and bungie cord it down from underneath. Also your project pieces can be bungie corded in place eliminating most peskie magnets. You can make a lower shelf using angle iron and wood. This unit will be light weight and you may have to attach it to the floor. Furher you can add to this table as may be needed later

I have rebuilt several anvils. They all needed extensive welding as they were sway-backed. I used 90 SB2 base rod for the filler. This rod seemed to do well at adhearing to the contaminated surfaces of the table & shelf. I used a carbide end mill in a (Bridgeport type verticle) mill and used a steady supply of air to cool the end mill and chase chips. Now that you have a nice clean surface to weld too, use a hard rod for a good hard surface, maybe two layers if necessary. I think it best to have the top two surfaces Blanchard Ground. Then grind the sides with a flap disk. To do minor repairs to the horn, using the 90 rod and hand grind with the flap disk. Be advised that I didn't find it worth major fixing anvils for resale. Filling chips, cracks or the sway back (1/4 inch) is time consuming and has a lot of splatter into the tig cup/tip. Up the argon flow a bit and use a large cup with 3/32 tungsten. After continuious welding for about 45 minuites the anvil is so hot you'll need heat protection. I just quit for the day and let it set to cool off. Take your time and make the grinding arraingments in advance. The anvils I repaired were between 95lbs and 172lbs After you get the milled surface done flip the anvil over on the table and flatten the base feet of the anvil. Then do the hard surface welding before taking it to the blanchard grinder. Lots of welding, Lots of milling time and an expense that I would only do for my personal use. I have heard that there are shops that can forge weld a new table surface to your old anvil, you might look for that. I have used a lot of 80SD2 tig rod. I repair chormemoly sprint car chassis and that is the rod recomended for chromemoly tubing. Check with the Tig welding equiptment MFGRS (not your local weld supply shop) as they have tech people you can talk with about your welding methods and the proper rod to use, they all have 800 numbers. Then practice.