I just got off the phone trying to find parts to connect my champion blower to the tee I plan on using for the forge. The tee and the parts that connect under the forge haven't been bought or even decided on as of yet. The OD diam. of the output on the blower is 2 1/2". I've called Lowe's, Home depot and another builders supply and all 3 said they have no idea as to any connection parts they would have, if they had it ____and they had no idea as to any place that might carry such a part. It's now too late to call the propane places or the well-drilling companies looking for parts, but thought in the meantime that maybe someone could suggest a way to narrow down the search for the type of pipe/connectors that I'll need. Being a 2 1/2" connection, I'm not really sure if this is something that a plumbing supply would even carry in a black-iron type pipe. Not sure if the LP business' would have that size either. Even if I could find a sleeve of some and then try to find someone to weld a reducer on for me...I'd even go with that, but just wondering if there's any dimension stock that I could use straight off the shelf.The actual hearth and forge pot will hopefully be cut and welded up tomorrow, but I'm about afraid to do anymore until the connector parts are bought and ready to put on the forge.
Any suggestions on a particular type conduit/supply pipe that I might find pretty easy?....Gas, water, well-drilling, anything at this point. The closest I've found in the forum posts is the flexible aluminum dryer vent hose which is fine, but I'm just wondering if maybe someone has found a more sturdy way of putting all this together.
And, on a side note, when the forge is anchored down to the plate steel hearth, would brazing the firepot to the hearth stand the heat of the forge while it's in operation or will it need to be gas/arc welded?....Don't remember the temps that the bronze rod can stand. Reason I ask is, I have an oxy/propane setup, just no welder.
Thanks a bunch

Edited July 28, 200916 yr by Hill

Give a few auto exhaust suppliers a call. They have lots of tube diameters that are not effected by heat.

Never thought of those guys...I'll call them in the morning..thanks

Actually most Auto Parts stores have some short lengths of exhaust pipe in the stores.

I have used the 3" round (clip together down the side) sheetmetal duct from a heating supplier or hardware store. Works just fine. You may have to swage down the end for a tighter fit or expand it to fit depending on what you have. - JK

And, on a side note, when the forge is anchored down to the plate steel hearth, would brazing the firepot to the hearth stand the heat of the forge while it's in operation or will it need to be gas/arc welded?....Don't remember the temps that the bronze rod can stand. Reason I ask is, I have an oxy/propane setup, just no welder.
Thanks a bunch

Will your firepot have a flange for it to sit on? If so, don't anchor it, just drop it into a hole that is close to a nice fit around the firepot under the flange. Being a welded up firepot, you may need to make repairs in the future.

What's easier to move, transport, turn over, etc when welding or having welded?-the firepot by itself or the whole forge?

Edited July 29, 200916 yr by keykeeper

For future reference, no, brazing can not be used on a forge. The temps are way too high. Brazing also should not be used for fireplace equipment, woodstove repairs or exhaust manifold repairs.
If you have an oxy-ace rig however, you can do gas welding, which is almost as easy as brazing.

While you are at the auto parts store, ask if they have any flex-pipe. It might save you some piping effort.

I wasn't planning on having much of a flange on it, but now that you mention it, maybe I should. I'll let it sit by its own weight...thank you for all the suggestions. Hopefully I can get the majority of the parts and work done
:)

Here is a photo of an original semi-portable Buffalo forge, just click on the image to enlarge it.

You will note that electric clothes dryer-type flexible pipe is taped to the side of the firepot with high-temp duct tape. This worked for me for years, except on the one occasion when I was heating canon tires, as the fire got too hot. The tape was a solution of expedience as I have tended to use this forge as a portable one for demonstrations. Replacing the tape with clamps or a combination of clamps and rigid duct parts would be an improvement especially for a more permanent location. Putting flexible duct somewhere in the middle of the piping however makes placing the forge in relation to the blower adjustable so that you can try different arrangements.

Also note the pass-throughs for the iron bar to be heated to pass through the sides of the forge and into where the center of the fire is expected to be, and are a bit above the firepot. Lastly the firepot sits in the forge and is not bolted to it, only the tuyer is bolted to the firepot. The forge is about two foot by two foot. The four holes seen in the upper corner are for a bracket for mounting a blower. I found the bracket that matches those holes, in a pile of stuff for sale at a guild meeting, but prefer a stand mounted blower arrangement.

Learning from the past saves us from repeating the lessons learned.

Dave E. :D

I'm hoping to use the band clamps and duct tape both, if I can find the high-temp tape....Did you use the aluminum duct tape for your connections?
Was also wondering if, to seal the connections a little better, maybe use some high-temp silicon...The nasty, black stuff that seems to get all over everything when you use it____Not sure just how high-temp it is though.

Thanks for the info and pic....it helps me to visualize things a little more, me not having a brain and all :-)

Here is a photo of an original semi-portable Buffalo forge, just click on the image to enlarge it.

You will note that electric clothes dryer-type flexible pipe is taped to the side of the firepot with high-temp duct tape. This worked for me for years, except on the one occasion when I was heating canon tires, as the fire got too hot. The tape was a solution of expedience as I have tended to use this forge as a portable one for demonstrations. Replacing the tape with clamps or a combination of clamps and rigid duct parts would be an improvement especially for a more permanent location. Putting flexible duct somewhere in the middle of the piping however makes placing the forge in relation to the blower adjustable so that you can try different arrangements.

Also note the pass-throughs for the iron bar to be heated to pass through the sides of the forge and into where the center of the fire is expected to be, and are a bit above the firepot. Lastly the firepot sits in the forge and is not bolted to it, only the tuyer is bolted to the firepot. The forge is about two foot by two foot. The four holes seen in the upper corner are for a bracket for mounting a blower. I found the bracket that matches those holes, in a pile of stuff for sale at a guild meeting, but prefer a stand mounted blower arrangement.

Learning from the past saves us from repeating the lessons learned.

Dave E.

I have found up to 3" flex tail-pipe at O'Reily's Auto Parts.

Check your local parts dealer. I know for sure that they make it, but the store might not have it in stock.

If you find it, they should have muffler clamps that fit it.

Don

I have no clue what the tape was made from, just whatever I was able to find at the time. You really don't need to use all three for the connection, I especially would discourage you from using anything that you might have to scrape off. My advice is to first try using band clamps for a while before adding duct tape or anything else. Keep it simple, don't worry about a little air leakage as it is not rocket science.

Don't worry, be happy, keep it simple. Avoid anything that might burn, ooze, or just plain cause more work than necessary.
Dave E.

I'm hoping to use the band clamps and duct tape both, if I can find the high-temp tape....Did you use the aluminum duct tape for your connections?
Was also wondering if, to seal the connections a little better, maybe use some high-temp silicon...The nasty, black stuff that seems to get all over everything when you use it____Not sure just how high-temp it is though.......

Leaks are not a problem. My handcranker has a gap where the horizontal pipe is too short by about 3mm so I just stuck a couple of washers on each bolt to relieve the tension and just left the gap. I lose some air but we are not talking high pressure here just high volume so a bit lost is no worries.

Here's a picture of the way I have mine rigged.

It's all 3", but it consists of the flex tail-pipe I mentioned above plus some of the 3" rigid vent pipe from Lowe's.
They make an elbow for the vent pipe that fits the flex pipe perfectly.
I think the 3" rigid is normally used for venting those small propane heaters.

My Canady Otto is 3"OD, but you could neck down at any point.

Don

The pic gives me an idea of the things I need to look for at Lowe's.....Thanks again for the info and suggestions :)