Ecart Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 This is prompted by my first attempt at making a bolster and butt cap for a skinner a guy has commissioned me to make for him. Here's what I've done so far. I took some quarter-inch thick angle iron and cut off pieces larger than I need for the fittings. I took the bolster stock to the drill press and drilled out a series of holes the thickness of the tang. Then I took it to the forge, heated and chiselled out the remaining bits of steel that divided the holes- there was a long break in the work as I grabbed the business end of the chisel and had to let my fingers get better before continuing . I filed out the piece to smooth the sides. Today I set to work on the butt cap. After drilling the holes and chiselling out the piece as described above, I was stuck with rounded corners that I had a real problem squaring up because I didn't have a file small enough to go into the hole. After a quick look around, I found a file that is probably older than I am. It is destined to become a knife one day. But today it served as a drift to square up the hole in the butt cap. So this made me think. Maybe I should make a few rectangular drifts of different size to square up the holes in the bolsters/butt caps. Here's the plan. Punch or drill the initial hole, then drift it out to the desired size. Really simple. Now, how do my fellow yet more experienced knife makers make your bolsters/butt caps? I know some folks cast them in place. There are many ways. But I was wondering if anyone would care to take us through the steps of how YOU make a bolster/butt cap for a knife. And, what is your favorite material for this purpose, if you can answer that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teejay Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Wood workers use a corner chisel,why not make one for steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 There is a chisel with a forged in a square shape but sharpened on the diamond that is use for this type of work. I cann't for the life of me remember that it is called right now. I got with a fist full of others from a pile of junk they were selling out of a machine shop. Those are best cold chisels I have. For fiddly knife work like you are talking about I buy HF swiss pattern files. They cut brass, nickle silver, and mild steel just fine. You might make yourself a holder for fine tooth bimetal jigsaw blades. On brass and nickle silver I use jewlers saw and blades to cut exact cornors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitewatchman Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Cape Chisel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I have seen the bolster cut out roughly and driven onto the tang so it acts as a drift. A technique used by the Lively knives. Worth a thought as each tang would be slightly different and a set of drifts would never be quite right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triw Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I do what rmcpb talked about.. get the tang the size you want it (I do mine with a slight taper). Then puunch a rectangular hole in your bolster material (a little smaller than the tang), heat the bolster to bright orange and drive it onto the tang. I learned this taking a class from Master Bladesmith Ray Rybar. I have some heavy pipe with a small hole to drive the bolster on with. I also do the same with brass bolsters with out heating the brass. Nice tight fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecart Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 Yeah, I'll bet that does create a tight fit! On this particular knife I am going to get my first taste of silver soldering as there is a gap that can easily be noticed if I don't do something to dress it up. Thanks for the responses. I'd ask for photos, but all I need to do for photos is to look a the threads here in this subforum. As I learn to post pics to the gallery, I'll try to get some pics of this knife posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 If you mean you are going to silver solder the gap around the ricasso area and the guard I would suggest that it will take the temper out of the blade in that area..The silver solder I use melts at 1150f and I do not use it for guards....Try some no lead plumbing solder. The stuff I use melts at 430f,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecart Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 Thanks for that reminder Rich. You made me go back and check my source. The Complete Bladesmith does NOT say to use silver solder because it melts - as you say - at 1100 degrees. What about flux? Will the plumber's solder need to be fluxed? Note to mods: Thanks for putting this thread in its right place. Sorry about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Thanks for that reminder Rich. You made me go back and check my source. The Complete Bladesmith does NOT say to use silver solder because it melts - as you say - at 1100 degrees. What about flux? Will the plumber's solder need to be fluxed? Note to mods: Thanks for putting this thread in its right place. Sorry about that. I believe that Rich is talking about the low melt 430 deg silver that is available at many hardware stores usually next to the welding supplies. The package that I have is Harris Brand "stay-brite" silver bearing solder. Flux is included in the package. I know it from jewelry repair/making. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecart Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 (edited) Thanks Charlotte. Now let's see if I can post a photo before continuing with this reply. Edited July 11, 2009 by mod07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecart Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 Okay, that came in a bit bigger than I planned. BUT I managed to post a pic. Anyway, the tang was way too big at the ricasso. It was around 1" and was making the handle overly fat in that area. So I ground the tang down to what I hope is more suitable. It is 3/4" at the junction tapering to 3/8" at the end. I'm thinking that I will use the idea of pounding on the bolster. Should I bring down the size of the tang even more, or would it work the way it is? Also, should the knife be heat treated and tempered before I do this? I can think of reasons as to why it should, but they may not be the right reasons. It didn't come out in the photo, but the junction has rounded shoulders. They aren't as square as they look in the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal-k Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 drill it like you did, then i chisel it out (mine arte mostly aluminum) or i have started to use really small files about eighth of an inch thick, can get them in a buch of different shapes. drifting certainly sounds easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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