Avadon Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Is this a good buy? are RR brand anvils forged? Do they have a tool steel face or are they all one piece?Anvil for Blacksmith Large OLD Collectible - eBay (item 280358101134 end time Jun-20-09 17:13:45 PDT) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 $600 with shipping =2.50 lb. I'd feel a lot better about it if it wasn't listed as an antique collectable. Fresh coat of spray paint doesn't help. RR could be any thing. Summery, as much as I would like an anvil that size I'm going to pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 They quoted me $132.33 so ~$531.33 That aint exactly cheap. I'm leaning towards passing as well. Nock off 100$ and they would prolly see they have bids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Looks like a decent anvil, perhaps a PW. Too high a price for me though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLMartin Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 I would guess at Peter Wright as well, kinda just looks like it it covered with grease, wich would be a good thing as it would help to prevent move rust, but definitely looks like a great anvil to me, if it is 240lb like they say 500 would be little over 2 a pound, not a bad price, edges look pretty good to, but personally i will not buy an anvil with out getting to see it in person first, i always bring a little half pound hammer with me and give it good little hits all over the face, you can tell realy quickly when the face it broken or no good, and most people laugh at my little hammer and dont mind me hittin the anvil with it because its so small. the price is a little high, they should be going down some in the past year but dont seem to be good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyro Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 I emailed and asked the seller for more pics without the pepsi can. No response. Can't help but think that can is hiding something on the far side of the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Also look at the cutting shelf. That is a saddle over it. Again what is that covering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 Also look at the cutting shelf. That is a saddle over it. Again what is that covering? The seller said that "saddle" was used to extend the bed :confused: umm okay.. surrrrrre it's probably a cutting shelf "saddle" layed over a torn up cutting bed. Not to be overly pessimistic but when people don't take a lot of up close pictures of an item they are trying to get hundreds of dollars for there usually is a reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Frankly the cutting shelf would have to be really really bad with very deep cuts indeed to play any part of an anvil buying decision to me as I don't use it anyway. I cut on a cutting plate that sticks in the hardy and bend on swages that fit in the hardy hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 Frankly the cutting shelf would have to be really really bad with very deep cuts indeed to play any part of an anvil buying decision to me as I don't use it anyway. I cut on a cutting plate that sticks in the hardy and bend on swages that fit in the hardy hole. I only have a cutting shelf on one of my tiny anvils. Between my bandsaw and other tools and the sacrelig nature of taking a cutting tool to an anvil I could never bring myself to use any anvil that way. I know on armourarchive there are people who do cold cut sheetmetal on anvil cutting plates, probably makes most people here cringe. I know if anyone takes something cold to beat on to my anvils it will be the last thing they take lol ps.. Thomas do you have pics or plans of your cutting plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Plans for a cutting plate? I have 2- 1 for each 280# anvil. One is a piece of plate with a bend at each end. The distance between the 2 bends is the width of the face of the anvil. That is the better of the two. The other one is a piece of plate. On one side is welded a piece of box section which fits in the hardy hole. Now comes the really tricky bit. There is also a piece of rod which is welded such that it engages in the pritchel hole. To get this accurate you need a micrometer (obviously) although a set of dividers and a tape might be accurate enough. Measure from as many points as possible (e.g. 6). Call that figure n. Then multiply all of these together and calculate the nth root. This gives you an algebraeic average which is far more accurate than an arithmetical mean. Once you have worked out the appropriate centres cut the steel. You need to weld it at 90 degrees to the base of the plate. Let us assume that the base and the face run parallel (but you might like to check this) then use Pythagoras's theorem to get the angle exactly right. You need to do this in both plains for each piece (the box and the rod) to ensure they are exactly true. tack them using low hydrogen rods. At this stage check with a micrometer that they are running at the same distance apart throughout their length. If they aren't you need to scrap the piece and start over again. Once they are exactly true fully weld, checking all the time. Once you have done this I would paint them and then shot blast all of the paint off to stress relieve the parts, clean the down to bare metal and apply a Parkerised finish. Do this twice to ensure complete coverage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Phillip - I personally do not think there is a need for a micrometer in this situation - I do not know of anyone that has a plate that snug of fit. Most want something that can be removed easily - plus once it heats up it will most likely jam in due to the expansions of the cutting plate. If it works for you - certainly use the micrometer. - JK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 Plans for a cutting plate? I have 2- 1 for each 280# anvil. One is a piece of plate with a bend at each end. The distance between the 2 bends is the width of the face of the anvil. That is the better of the two. The other one is a piece of plate. On one side is welded a piece of box section which fits in the hardy hole. Now comes the really tricky bit. There is also a piece of rod which is welded such that it engages in the pritchel hole. To get this accurate you need a micrometer (obviously) although a set of dividers and a tape might be accurate enough. Measure from as many points as possible (e.g. 6). Call that figure n. Then multiply all of these together and calculate the nth root. This gives you an algebraeic average which is far more accurate than an arithmetical mean. Once you have worked out the appropriate centres cut the steel. You need to weld it at 90 degrees to the base of the plate. Let us assume that the base and the face run parallel (but you might like to check this) then use Pythagoras's theorem to get the angle exactly right. You need to do this in both plains for each piece (the box and the rod) to ensure they are exactly true. tack them using low hydrogen rods. At this stage check with a micrometer that they are running at the same distance apart throughout their length. If they aren't you need to scrap the piece and start over again. Once they are exactly true fully weld, checking all the time. Once you have done this I would paint them and then shot blast all of the paint off to stress relieve the parts, clean the down to bare metal and apply a Parkerised finish. Do this twice to ensure complete coverage. SAY WHAT!! Okay I was with you up at the piece of plate with the sides welded so that they cover the face. Now that I know more about the hardy fit (which was why I asked those question) I can understand how people are making these cutting tools. I don't understand how the cutting plate is also connected to the pritchel. Is that just to decrease jump or increase the transference of the blow? Do you have any pictures of this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Avadon - the reason for a rod in the pritchel hole and the hardy hole is for locating the plate(if it is not bent on the sides to do the same). Either way or a combination of both just keeps the plate in place during use to protect the anvil from the cutting tools. - JK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 What do you mean by "locating"... I thought we were talking about a piece of plate welded to two flanges that snug the face, and the plate also has a hardy shaft extending downward into the hardy hole. This kind of setup needs to be tied into the pritchel as well? Also how thick is average for cutting plates? Wouldn't thicker be better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Avadon, I was trying to raise a smile. The real method is: Get a piece of plate and hammer it round your anvil face. Takes about 2 minutes. Or Get a piece of channel iron the same size as your anvil face- even easier. Or Get a piece of plate, don't bend it but weld a bit of anything on the back to fit in the hardy hole. Another piece of something to fit in pritchel hole helps to keep it still. Problem with one in the HH is that you can't use a hardy tool at same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Locating(positioning) the plate by means of either (1)side plates or (2)pritchel and hardy shanks, it all depends on how you want to make it. 1/4" to 1/2" is fine. - JK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 Avadon, I was trying to raise a smile. The real method is: Get a piece of plate and hammer it round your anvil face. Takes about 2 minutes. Or Get a piece of channel iron the same size as your anvil face- even easier. Or Get a piece of plate, don't bend it but weld a bit of anything on the back to fit in the hardy hole. Another piece of something to fit in pritchel hole helps to keep it still. Problem with one in the HH is that you can't use a hardy tool at same time. I didn't know if you were fooling with me or serious. I was like.. "you paint it and then you blast it off?!?!?!" lol.. but I didn't want to laugh in case you were dead serious and I was just being dense. hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I just took a piece of 1/8" thick x 2-3" wide strap and forged one end down to fit the hardy hole *slightly* and bent it 90. About time to heat it up and bend it back the other way so to use the "clean" side... For pattern welding billets I have a cutting plate set up with a center line and then 1/4" tic marks out from the center line on the side and inches number stamped to make it easy to figure out where to cut a billet evenly. Phillip; yes you can forge a cutting plate from a micrometer if you start with a large enough one---use a starret or other good brand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.