RcRacer Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I finished the t-jet burner a while ago and posted pics along with a few beginning construction pics of my forge. Well, here's were I'm at now. The forge shell is finished with the tube receiver is welded on for the floor or table stand, handle is tacked on top, doors hung with simple hinges. I made the receiver so that it can be swapped to operate from a floor stand or a table top for portability. I only have to add some 1" square tubes at the bottom of the forge body as adjustable holders for material braces, some high temp paint and then I will add my kaowool, satanite and ITC 100 for insulation and bubble alumina for the floor. By the way, none of this is original, I used ideas from a variety of projects. Many thanks to everyone. The one thing that I am not clear on is how to form the entry through the wool for the burner. Should the hole be lined with refractory? How is it formed? Here's some pics. I apologize, they are not very clear but they clearly show how messy the shop is The door assembly after tack welding The finished doors - no hinges Mounted directly to the base Mounted to the base using the floor stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Nice looking forge you have there!!! Good job!! On forming the burner holes in the wool, If you can turn a piece of hardwood to the inlet diamiter with a 12 degree taper. So, that would be the small end of the hardwoodwood plug turned to the size of the flame holder opening from your burner, then taper the length at 12 degrees larger for the thickness of the wool, or longer (a picture would be worth a thousand words here). After you fire the forge the first time, wedge the plug in the hole to form the wool around it. Do this for the first several fireing, then it will stay in the plug formed possition. If you want to use this method for the ITC-100, you will need to have a parting agent so the ITC doesn't stick to the wooden plug. Wax paper works very well, Masking tape will work too. Be sure to wrap the wood plug so you avoid wrincles that could transfer to the ITC. Good luck! Look forward to picture of it burning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Nice looking job of work on the forge. I don't do anything special to the refractory for the burner penetration. Fe-Wood's methods will be better. Is it at all shaky on the tall stand? You want it good and solid, any movement will be annoying to say the least. Pics of it hot next? Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RcRacer Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 snip ......... Is it at all shaky on the tall stand? You want it good and solid, any movement will be annoying to say the least. .............. Frosty Thanks for the input guys. As far as the floor stand being steady ... well ... I used some old bed frame angle iron for the post and didn't realize how much it twisted. The forge sits there shaking it's head "no" like a bobble head doll. I'll have to come up with a sturdier post. The base is flimsy but could be re-enforced with some angle iron. ... Hey I know where I can get some .... I will definitely post pics when it gets insulated and fired up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Mine is a wheel rim with a 4in pipe upright topped with a 1 1/2X1/4 angle iron frame fitted to the forge. solid as a rock. Pyrometer mounted to the post. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RcRacer Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 I now have 2" of kaowool installed and coated with satanite. I think I may add another coat before coating with ITC 100 and casting the bubble alumina floor but since I had to fire it to help cure the satanite, I figured I would experiment by heating and beating some rebar. The t-jet burner works great and fires up very easily. I can run it from 2lbs and up. I ran it at 8lbs of pressure today. When the forge is hot, I can shut down the burner and restart it with residual heat from the refractory. I still need to update the stand but I now have some good pipe for the post. Here's some pics showing the current progress - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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