markb Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 I traded electrical work for the use of a Bob Cat and the owner said it needed some hydraulic fluid so pick up a quart or 2. Well, they sell it in 21/2 Gal. jugs and it took a half a quart. I think it is about a twenty weight oil. (Good stuff, $40.00) Would this be suitable for quench or should I send it back w/Bob. Thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 Check the flash point, then try it. Its the speed of the quench that give us a properly hardened blade, the steel doesn't care what the material is. Most oils have a cooling rate close enough. By blending in other fluids such as Diesel fuel or transmission fluid or Veggie oils you can adjust the speed of your quench to get it where you, and the steel are happy. You don't have to use a finished blade, cut off a section of 1095 a few inches long, no need to even grind it for testing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markb Posted May 21, 2009 Author Share Posted May 21, 2009 (edited) Is thinner faster? Does faster= harder? Edited May 21, 2009 by markb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlpierson Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 The required quench speed is determined by the "hardenability" of the steel. Less hardenable steel requires a faster quench. Less hardenable steels are also called "shallow hardening". For example: 1095 requires a very fast quench, O1 and 5160 will get fully hard with a slower quench. Using a faster quench than required will not cause the steel to get any harder and may increase the chance of warping or cracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markb Posted May 21, 2009 Author Share Posted May 21, 2009 I'm going to reference a page I posted and re read it. Seems I may have the answer to my own Question. I've been reading about knife making for so long and not actually practicing that the info is familiar but not really learned. It takes a combo or info and action, so I'm going to do as Steve suggested. Please continue to post on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 I think the best way to learn of heat treat methods and quench mediums is with shop testing and record keeping. Use one steel and learn all you can from it. 1095 )-1 or anything you wish. make a few blades from it and try air quench and the use a file to see how hard the blade is..Use the same file for all tests. then do anothe blade with oil quench test with file,,,then try a water quench, file test. Write down all testing process methods.. including anything that may affect the hardening of the steel. For inttsnce the temp of the quench medium. Thciness of steel.etc. May be a good idea to stamp a number on each sample to log in. Then onto tempering. try different temps and see what happens with bend tests edge holding etc. and try not to get hurt! When you have a formula that works for you refer to your log each time you use that steel for that purpose. When you have made and finished a lot of blades try a different steel and repeat. When you read about heat treat for a particular steel it is a starting point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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