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I Forge Iron

friction folder handles


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hey actually can i boil veggie oil? i got a gallon to quench my knives and so forth. i think if i boil it into my wood i wil use that will work right? maybe i am wrong, but i will learn and it is going to be used to quench stuff so it does no matter if it is boiled, right? ok so i am not great with the whole oil thing. i just have to find my good old mineral oil! thanks for the ideas and help.

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ok. i will heat the oil into the wood on a really low heat. i assume if i heat the oil it will light on fire. so heat till it smokes with my handle in it and i am done. this i think i can do, without burning down my neighborhood.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok this is all very informative... but why not just use light or not? New guy, if you're a boyscout you should know about it... for the rest here's what it is. Light or not is pine wood... usually an old stump... that has been left intact for so long that the pine resin that is naturally occuring in the tree solidifies. What's more food safe than something made by nature it'self?... extremely hard... incredibly durible... and doesn't rot

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Just an interesting side note on linseed oil.Those of us who are older may remember a floor covering called linoleum.It was made of some kind of fiber soaked in linseed oil. It was used in hospitals a lot because of its natural antibacterial qualities. It was also used as counter top covering before plastics were common.There is a product called linoleum today but it's plastic.

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As a sort of finishing expert I feel the need to comment on the olive oil. I LOVE olive oil and use it regularly for cleaning and conditioning brushes (where it works GREAT). I cook with it regularly and use it for cleaning around the house too. As a finish it has some drawbacks though. Olive oil tends NOT to dry (some guys say it NEVER dries... but I am cautious with the use of that word). In any case, as an oil classified NON-drying, olive oil is generally going to be a poorer choice than any of the DRYing oils for finishing wood (or most anything). I have used MANY types of finish and I tend to do most items with industrial grade acrylics (Breakthrough) and/or catalyzed plastics (epoxy, Kwik-Poly, etcetera) but I like to use walnut oil and linseed oil is a very useful product too. I have drifted away from tung oils because they have shorter shelf lives and are very complex chemically where I prefer simple when possible.

Walnut oil is very nice and TOTALLY edible. It makes a nice finish when dried but is a bit slow... I have found that for small items, like spoons, summer car dash baking is a great accelerant. Numerous coats are advisable for a reasonably durable finish.

In the end though, most any dried finish is PLENTY safe for a knife handle used to prepare food... olive oil could be slippery and is one of the LEAST desirable choices. Walnut oil is available in small bottles in the groceries and health food stores... similarly priced to olive oil. Multiple thin wipe-on coats baked and dried between applications is the best way I know to work with walnut oil.

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