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So I'm sure any of you out there who do metal work for a living have been asked about "Clear Coat" for metal work and keeping that natural looking finish on metal. All of us have our secrets and tricks and preferences. I recently had an outdoor fireplace screen project where the client would not budge on having it a natural forged steel look. I told them it will eventually start rusting unless your willing to commit to maintaining the piece on a regular basis. After quite a bit of research I decided to try clear powder coating. This particular process is done without sandblasting so you do not lose the forged finish and texture on your iron work. The whole piece was cleaned thoroughly then wire wheeled, then wiped down with denatured alcohol and then one more quick pass with steel wool to take off any additional rust spots starting. The piece is then powder coated clear. This is the first time I have tried this particular process and was hoping someone out there has tried it before. Any information on clear powder coating and its longevity??
I'm putting together a home foundry following some plans, but they haven't discussed the subject of high heat paint to protect the steel of the body and I was hoping someone here would have some insight. I've roughed out the body of my foundry and coated the outside with high heat paint (see attached) to prevent the steel from oxidizing; the paint is rated up to 2000F and my thinking was that if the exterior gets to the point of 2000F then I have bigger problems than paint vaporizing. I am tempted, however, to paint the inside wall as well; the lid and the bottom will be protected from oxidation by the refractory I plan to line them with, but the walls are simply going to use kaowool to contain the heat and I am worried that if I paint the interior that I could be risking temps that will vaporize the paint, especially at the seam of the kaowool. I really want to protect the steel as much as possible to extend the life of the foundry but I draw the line at any safety risks. I've considered lining the walls with refractory as well, but I am very reticent to deviating from plans. Here are the plans I'm using for reference. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Additionally, I am planning on buying a burner rather than constructing one as per the plans; I'm certain that I could make one but there are practical concerns and I like the craftsmanship of the burners I'm eyeing in eBay. These plans are for a burner where the tube is 3/4", but I think I can manage to attach something with a 1" tube as I can't seem to find any made to the specifics of the Reil EZ burner that the plans call for; would this be too much for this small a foundry? I could obviously just turn it down, but I would prefer to not over-stress what I'm working with. Thanks again; these forums have been a lot of help.