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pkrankow

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Posts posted by pkrankow

    Temporary Forge

    in Solid Fuel Forges

    Posted

    I see where this is going.  Cosmetics and yard clutter concern your mother.

     

    If you put a layer of sand in the bottom to take up space, then stack bricks on the sand to protect the vessel you can have the cosmetics your mother desires and the forge you desire.  However using a $300 fire bowl is a little...  See if you can find a less expensive decorative vessel. 

     

    Going back to a ground forge, see if you can set up a low brick or wood framed "sandbox" forge, then cover it with pavers and a potted plant (or some other decorative element) when not in use and cooled down.  Naturally maintaining a clean work space and cleaning up promptly will be paramount to maintaining this illusion.

     

    "If Mom ain't happy, ain't nobody happy"

     

    Phil

    Temporary Forge

    in Solid Fuel Forges

    Posted

    Dig a shallow hole and make a ground forge. 

    Stack some bricks on the ground and make a ground forge. 

    Make one of Glenn's 55 forges from a drum

    Take a heat resistant table and put some bricks on it to contain the fire and fuel

     

    Phil

    No markings on anvil, need help identifying

    in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels

    Posted

    After cleaning with a wire brush you may find the feet under the horn stamped with a serial number that can identify the age of the anvil.  My first thought was Trenton because the line where the tool steel face is welded is visible, however that is not a solid indication.  Trenton and Hay Budden are two very good brands!  Both companies did number the anvils in a similar area, the weight on one foot the serial number on the other, and the markings were opposite location between the two brands.

     

    There also may be a brand marking on the side.  Wire brush, some oil or wax and it will shine...or just use it the way it is and it will clean up quite a bit from use.

     

    Phil

    Best steel for razors?

    in Knife Making

    Posted

    1084, 1095, O1 tool steel

     

    Nice short list to choose from that will respond to a "backyard" heat treat process.

     

    O1 will perform well in this application without the dwell at temperature the specifications ask for because it is a thin section and the highest hardness it can achieve is not required. 

    http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/276998-W-amp-B-9-8ths?highlight=

    I have one of Paco's kamisori heat treat with this method.  It is nice and holds the edge quite well.

     

     

    5160 may also be suitable but will be very easy to temper too soft as razors are left harder than knives. 

     

    Phil

    forge tuning newbie questions!

    in Gas Forges

    Posted

    Get a few soft thick firebrick, weld or bolt on some channel or angle that the fire brick just fits to hold the brick against the openings of the forge. Make up a pair of lightweight tongs for grabbing large materials (fireplace log tongs) to adjust the bricks to a suitable opening.

    One step easier is to use a cinderblock (cheap but not heat resistant) and thin hard firebrick (cheap and highly heat resistant) to stack a porch in front of the forge on the table, then stack soft or hard firebrick on the porch to make a door.

    Phil

    Best steel for razors?

    in Knife Making

    Posted

    Heh. Good luck. Even among users of straight razors there is no best. Stainless variaties are considered difficult to hone by some, plain carbon varaities patina and rust. Patern welded suffer from hone wear similar to engraved spines and goldwash.

    http://badgerandblad...To-quot-Threads

    Bill Ellis makes some sweet looking blades and freely shares information.

    old razors were similar to 10xxx between .9 and 1.2 % carbon
    http://badgerandblad...ntage-Straights
    http://straightrazorplace.com/forge/21523-great-razor-analysis-project.html

    Use of recycled old files, O series and A series tool steels (O1 and A2 are supposed to be good), and quite a few other materials also are considered desireable materials.

    In the end look at how you intend to process the heat treat using your capabilites, and pick. Whatever you choose there will be haters and lovers of the material.

    Phil

    Another ugly anvil - a Wilkinsons with a broken back

    in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels

    Posted

    People always think that anvils need to be more pristine than required. A perfectly flat surface is not required, and in some tasks, such as straightening, sway is desired (but I would never consider deliberately making sway in an anvil)

    I do agree, repair it since you have the ability and the cost is near free. In fact because you are teaching that is another reason to repair it!

    Phil

    Look'ee what I did!!!

    in Introduce Yourself

    Posted

    Pretty darn good for a first try!

    Finding an anvil is interesting. The best way is to ask everybody if they have leads. EVERYBODY! The grocery clerk, the mail carrier, your preacher, the people at work, the neighbors, aunts, uncles, cousins... you never know someone might have a sweet Hay Budden or Mousehole sitting in the garage or basement that they are tired of moving or banging their leg on that you can have for the effort to remove it! More likely you will pay $1-$2 per pound for a decent anvil, $3-$4 for a very nice or nearly new anvil. Learn about ASO's (cast iron anvils, Anvil Shaped Objects) and avoid them unless free. (they have utility as tool holders and glue weights) Check the prices on NEW anvils as a reference.

    If the scrap yards sell you can look for an ALO (Anvil Like Object) which is a lump of steel, preferably alloy or tool but mild is acceptable, that weighs about 100# with a flat surface and fair edges...not necessarily on the same surface! Examples are RR couplers, press dies, some tractor weights (most are cast iron, some are mild steel), large truck axles, the hammer head you are using right now...

    check out this
    http://www.iforgeiro...etting-started/
    not just for knifemaking.

    Don't neglect Craigslist and ebay. Ebay will only have deals for local pickup as shipping makes the price increase by more than shipping costs. Good deals on Craigslist don't last long so have cash in hand and check at least daily if not several times a day.

    Welcome aboard!

    Phil

    Quenching volume of oil

    in Heat Treating, general discussion

    Posted

    1 gallon quenchant per pound steel is an industry recognized guideline. You can use more without concern.

    Used oils, particularly motor oil have contaminants that become areosolized during quench. Without proper and adequate ventilation this is a health hazard. With fresh clean oils the areosols are still a health hazard, so set up for proper ventilation anyways.

    Special quenching oils have a known rate of cooling, with used oils you may want to run a sample before runing your item to make sure the performance is as expected.

    It sounds like a 5 gallon *STEEL* bucket *WITH A LID* about 1/2 full of oil will be adequate for most of your needs, and a 1 gallon steel paint can with a lid about 1/2 full for many of your needs.

    I like veggie oil. I use a 1 qt container with a lid about 2/3 full for end quenching small punches and chisels.

    Phil

    Ron Reil burner help please

    in Gas Forges

    Posted

    You are excessively rich because the jet oriface is too big. Your choices are start over with fresh feed pipe and a #60 drill, which is .04 inches OR buy a drill and tap set for 1/4-28 and a package of .035 mig contact tips (which are about .04 inch). Drill out your current oriface as square as you can then tap it. You can adjust the contact tip slightly by bending it with a wrench fitted over it.

    You may need to cut the tip shorter and clean up the inside edge with a torch file. You need a sharp edge so the gas separates from the surface.

    I built a Reil burner but switched to a different burner since I could not maintain a stable flame out doors in slightly windy conditions. I built Frosty's T burner which I am please with even though it is difficult to tune initially (you have to cut the contact tip used as an oriface shorter to tune)

    http://anvilsandinks...com/burner.html
    http://www.iforgeiro...-and-made-this/

    Phil

    I lined my champion forge

    in Solid Fuel Forges

    Posted

    Find where the gaps are, enterance and exit, then use some sub-soil from the yard to plug and pack the gaps. Save yourself getting an expensive bucket of clay when you need a handful. You probably need to go down 1 shovel depth away from the planting beds, replace the divot and no one will ever know!

    Phil

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