pkrankow
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Posts posted by pkrankow
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Nice! Wish I had that opportunity. Hope you got to use that fly rod too. I also suppose the fly rod has a serious case. Wish more student projects were pictured. Keep up the good work.
Phil -
My error, maybe I should have said "many modern anvils are cast" I know most historic anvils are forged.
Phil -
Build a campfire and throw a couple stones in. After cooking for an evening and cooling you can split or shape flint as it will fracture more predictably.
Phil -
ichudov,
Is that a hardy hole in the BOTTOM of that anvil?
Phil -
I thought machine guns were a flanking weapon....
Pretty darn cool stuff!
Phil -
Apparently most hardie holes are not even perpendicular to the face of the anvil. They are made with a sand core during casting and the sand will move some as the hot steel flows around. This is based on what I have read, my anvil is broken at the hardie.
Phil -
Wouldn't small size square stock tool steel cost less than drill rod since no grinding step is done? Would the corners be such a detriment for TIG welding?
Just a thought
Phil -
Pretty. Can't wait to see what you use for a handle. Please picture something to reference for size too.
Thanks
Phil -
Myloh, they make a fastener like that. I don't know if it comes that big though. The smaller ones I have used have course threads for directly driving into a properly sized hole in wood or stone, but I only ever needed 1/4-20, and never looked for bigger.
Phil -
Since the forum was down all weekend I read much of the Hofi series of blueprints (numbered 1000+) there is an interesting blueprint for a side draft hood.
What you got looks like it is working as well as the pics in the Hofi blueprint.
Phil -
I like the pouch you made too. Very handy looking.
Phil -
Do cherry pits work like corn? They are sold as stove fuel at times around here.
Granted I am building a gasses and not a solid fuel forge, but I can always build another forge later.
Phil -
1 bar = 14.5037738 pounds per square inch per Google
so .2 bar =about 3 psi. Nice.
Using google to do conversions is awesome.
Phil -
Sinks are "mild" and not very hardenable since they are drawn metal. I'm sure there is a use for them. Might make nice slack tubs.
Phil -
Nice design. It will be nice to see the finished project.
If you are worried about the center: 3 panels? Center panel larger than end panels. Or you could make the screen taller than the fireplace to reduce the opening in the center.
With free standing screens having a thicker bottom to weight it a bit is nice.
Phil -
Frosty, that's what a "work cell" is all about. Efficient.
Phil -
I almost forgot, right now it stands 44 inches to the shelf. That may change some before I am done, but it seems a comfortable height.
http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f86/how-high-your-forge-your-stand-up-smithy-13549/
Phil -
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I found some articles and some pics on twisting flat stock to make tongs.
Blacksmithing Tips - How to Forge a Pair of Tongs
Make steel Forging Tongs
Any opinion on if this is easier/better for a first/temporary set than making out of round or square? I know better tongs can be made with added skill out of round or square stock.
Phil -
Nice job. Wheels look like they belong.
Phil -
I need to post more pics, the forge shrank to a 2 burner, 11 inches long. The ribs of the drum made squishing...difficult. Shorter the ribs made squishing easy as the edge could be rolled over more to hold everything in place. Estimated final internal volume is 370 cu in. I used pop-rivets to make a shelf support and brace it into shape with the extra metal from being shorter. I mounted it to its cart a few days ago. I ran some carriage bolts through the shell and into a metal shelf, leaving an airspace between the shell and shelf. Seems to work quite nicely.
Yes, valving is going to be installed, but I am unsure if an idle circuit is needed, I have read mixed reviews. The complexity and cost is not very high, so I may put it in. I can choose to not use it if don't like it.
Would there be any reason to run the back burner with the front burner off? Cost would be 1 valve if I kept the main shutoff.
Would using larger T's, say 3/8 or even 1/2 inch, to manifold the burners and act as a small receiver tank ensure even gas pressure to multiple burners? Or is using 1/4 inch fittings to the 1/8 inch ID tubing already doing enough of that? I have read several complaints of having to fiddle with the pressure after changing the number of burners in service. Is fiddling with the pressure more a function of the change in back pressure to the burner from extra mass injected into the forge?
The muffler sealant I used in the burner will turn to a ceramic material at temperature. It is non-toxic after it is brought to temperature once, but does have some funky solvents in it. I figured it wouldn't hurt, and it is recommended on mantle lanterns to ensure that the fuel/air mix goes where it needs to. In retrospect, since this is where the fuel mixes with the air, I understand why it is not necessary.
Still need to order insulation, but I am rebuilding the front end of my mother-in-laws cavalier: hood, head lights, radiator, condenser. It's funny how high the bumper is on SUV's:(, how easily a small car can miss the bumper:o, and how quickly hobby money gets reassigned:confused:. Happily no injuries.
Phil -
some info on tuning this burner:
http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f86/trying-build-first-gas-forge-13680/
Phil -
Police arrest this mugger!
er, nice deal
Phil
Help in making a Drafting Hood
in Chimneys, Hoods, and Stacks
Posted
Call me gross, but Vernors ginger ale is quite tasty when warmed.
Phil