pkrankow

For small money I would love one of those just because it looks cool and I can use it for light stuff (not blacksmithing)

Phil

Stick electrode deposit rate is about 30%-50% depending on the product, the technique, and how much grinding is done (and other variables) For some processes the deposition is much lower, but it really can't get over 50% because of the flux coating and the wasted stubs. (I have read it several places, but don't have a citation.)

For a starting answer, measure the area of the seams and the intended spacing. Then calculate a rough volume, then the weight of said volume in steel. Based on the previous statement (30%-50%) you can triple this number and have an estimate on required pounds of electrode.

When you get to the face you should have a good feel for the required amount of electrode.

Phil

(maybe my statement is low, hopefully it is)
http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/FM_handbook/577fm8_3.htm

What is it doing wrong?

Phil

Appropriate to the size of your work?

If you are working wide scrolls, 4x8 inch stock in a power hammer, small stuff that rarely exceeds a small envelope, small stuff in a considerably larger envelope, you will want vastly different forges.

Phil

BTW building additional forges of different sizes is easy after building the first. Start small and cheap.
Phil

Very nice.

Phil

Looks good. How's it work?
Phil

Stay under 6mm, 1/4 inch and you should drill mild steel fine. Drilling smaller holes may actually be harder because of breaking the fine drill bits.

Set yourself up so you have a leaning post and make sure the drill is always cutting if it is turning in the hole. If the drill is turning, but not cutting, then you can work harden the steel and it will be much harder to restart your hole. You can add chalk powder or baking soda (from the kitchen) to the hole with a little oil to restart the hole if you work harden and it MIGHT start cutting again.

You might be able to drill 3/8 or 1/2 inch holes, 10mm or 13mm, maybe. If you step drill, drill a smaller hole, then drill a larger hole, then a larger hole you might be able to drill a fairly large hole, but you will have to work for it. You need a large enough increase in hole size so the drill cannot jam in the hole. For 1/2 inch I would go 1/4, 3/8, 1/2...so 6mm, 10mm, 13mm.

When you get your forge running you can hot punch bigger holes.

Look for an electric, or large manual drill press and an electric handheld drill.

Phil

I love low layer PW. Very bold in appearance. Good job!

I look forward to seeing the finished blade.

Phil

Modifying the handle can sometimes make a hammer much more "friendly". If the hammer is heavy for you try it with a really short handle.

Choke up and try before you cut. Then again replacing a handle is a basic skill...

I also use a spokeshave and adjust the shape of the handle, then I put a wrap of electrical tape at 10 inches (about 25 cm) from the head and try it. I can move the tape and pretend my handle is a different length. I lop it off when I am happy, usually after 2-3 forging sessions.



Phil

http://www.tractorsu...-welder-3837309

Walk in and get. It is a nice machine but not an industrial machine. Hobart is now the economy line of Miller. The quality is the same, some features are different.

Now that I have proper 50A 220 power in my garage for a welder I am looking and wanting. I have an ancient 30A stick welder with taps that works ok though.

Phil

I work out of my garage/storgae area and have to drag out everything each time I want some forge time.

Yea, I feel that. My wife has to keep her indoor parking space too.

We have plans for an outbuilding that will be my shop/forge/storage area, but everything NEW is on hold for now. Still have a lot of work to finish on the house from foundation repairs. Maybe next year...

Phil

My guess is some previous owner started to have the wild hair of repairing it, and did some test welds on it. If you strip all the paint off there may be more information visible in the metal how the previous welds took, what material was used, and the like.

It could be like an ASO in my possession and the welding on it is "just practicing" and will probably get some more "just practicing" done to it.

I still think that trying to repair this is expensive and time consuming. If this is a learning experience with intention for a future project, failure being a valid option, it may be worth it, but it will still be expensive and time consuming.

Phil

12 ft ceilings. Wouldn't want to have a striker hit the ceiling and lights.

Phil

There are already fumes before zinc melts. Double check the phase diagrams. Zinc sublimates at a lower temperature than it melts.

Phil

A good mill file can dress a hammer in reasonable time. A belt sander or belt grinder is considerably quicker and easier. Don't worry about a mirror polish unless you are doing cold work. A smooth finish with no significant visual blemishes that feels smooth to your hand is all you need.

Phil

Pickle and wash the galvanized metal to remove the zinc. Muriatic acid is quick but more dangerous, vinegar is slow but safer. Neutralize with ammonia or baking soda, rinse well with water.

Phil

A heavy knife can be carefully used to cut thin sheet metal. Carefully being a key word, getting hurt while building a tool is no good. You can use a wood mallet to drive into the sheet backed by a stump. A chisel can also be used in this manner.

If you have a vise sawing along the jaw with the hacksaw can quickly cut sheet metal neatly. Similarly using a couple clamps to fasten a piece of metal stock to act as a vise, or even a couple stout boards, could also work well as a vise and cutting guide.

Vaughn suggested pre-drilling thin wood for nails, or using some rubber hose. Rope, or a couple layers of leather strip may also work.

The idea is to provide for enough clamping along the entire edge to prevent air leaks.

Phil

Repairing that is going to be time consuming and expensive. Why even bother repairing?

You have a neat conversation piece, a swage block, and a usable hardy and debated horn (is it broke or is it "dressed" with weld hmm...) If the horn is in fact broken then you will need to remove it and reattach it.

Phil

guys can i use slim (thin) peace of wood instead sheet metal to atach iner tube on plywood

Maybe. The thin sheet metal is a lot better because it won't split out like thin wood can.

You may be able to cut up some cans to get the sheet metal. Even a bean can, cut in a spiral, can offer a long strip of metal. It would probably take several cans to get enough strip to go all the way around all 4 boards. Larger cans, like from coffee or paint, would work better.

To mark a spiral on a round can easily mark the sides of the can up one side then wrap with tape carefully in a spiral. Cur along the edge of the tape. If you don't have tape, use string then trace the string carefully.

Phil

http://www.metalculv...gweightscms.htm
this says 12 inch is about 10# per ft, so a 20 ft piece is 200#, depending on the exact product.

You may not need a full 20 ft however. Stoves recommend a minimum rise of about 13 ft of chimney, and an above the roof clearance.

I suspect they are held in by bands and hangers, supported at the roof, and by some hangers leading up to adjacent joists. It is entirely possible Brian Brazeal made the hardware.

Phil

Nice score! I have lost count of how many times I have used a broken one of those to bust out concrete sidewalk, driveway, slabs... The one my Dad has snapped in a classic spiral fashion a few inches from the end so it is about 4 ft of sharp pointed digging power.

I see lots of good tools in your future!

Phil

anvil
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-1168-8321-3-4140-hot-rolled-as-rolled-plate.aspx
don't let anyone say a solid plate isn't an anvil! (I have no clue on shipping)




How about you search for used forklift tines, or call up a service place to get a scrap tine. A 30# anvil that is very well supported and fastened will outperform a 100# anvil sitting loose on a stump.

Making a hardy through plate isn't hard. If you have help you can drift it hot, if not you can cut it with cold chisels.

Phil

Every belt that has let go bounces off the ceiling for me. It is rather amusing. (I guess I am lucky)

Unlike some of you I have a small grinder that can only run 1x30 or 1x42 belts. I would be more concerned having a large belt come off.

Phil

I've been having a similar problem. "New" but older belts (not really old, but sitting around for more than a year) pop at the seams very readily with no damage to the belt. In my case it seems the tape joint tears as opposed to the glue letting go. These are the last of my "big box" belts and I need to order from somewhere when I run out. I have a dozen or so left so this may last me a while, or not.

Phil

Also very interesting setup! But I am afraid I´ll have trouble getting the materials needed for it on my budget though.

The Hofi chimney is simply the same vertical 12 inch pipe with a box duct to bring the draft to the fire, so you do not need to penetrate the roof, but can go outside the roof. The horizontal box is all that is needed extra. It can be made from scrap sheet metal if needed.

Phil