Jump to content
I Forge Iron

K. Bryan Morgan

Members
  • Posts

    1,017
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by K. Bryan Morgan

  1. ​If you have a bench grinder, it's very easy to grind a concentric curve/taper onto some 1/2" round stock by chucking it in a drill and spinning it against your grinder.  Round-nose punches come in real handy for a lot of things, and a few quick hits with a file will turn a round punch into an oval to make an eye punch, etc.  I lucked into some 1/2" roller bearings and have been making punches and chisels out of them b/c they don't need any heat-treat.

    ​Excellent ideas.  Thank you for responding.  I think the spring I have is 5/8" round.  Or close to that.  I'll see if I can get a piece straight enough to chuck in my hand drill.  I do have a belt grinder with a disk grinder on it. 

  2. Hi Max,

    I live in Central Alaska.  I have a few local friends and one or two of them are world class knife makers.  A few times I've been able to go down to Frosties and hang out for a weekend and learn.  I even made it to one class the Alaska Artists Blacksmiths Association had on tong making.  For the rest, I use this site.  The people here are the best.  If I have an issue or need guidance with a project, I ask and they give.  Heck even every once in a while one of them will call up and say howdy and chat on the phone.  I have been given so much by the membership of this site.  Including knowledge.  I'm no great smith.  I'm a weekend hobby guy.  But, people have been begging me for tripods, cowboy cooksets, folding leg campfire grills.  All because I made one tripod for a friend.  It pays for fuel and for materials.  Materials that I plan on turning into axes.  Why?  Because I have a thing for making axes.  I've really put in a lot of time studying how they are made, why they are made the way they are and a lot of other things.  Now its time to make some.  But, everything I've learned about it is here.  I guess what I'm trying to convey to you is this.  Hang out.  Spend time listening and reading.  You'll get there.  Your not alone.  There are many many people in the exact same boat your in.  Hang tough.  After all your a blacksmith too. 

    Blacksmith.jpg

  3. Hi Frosty and Jeremy,  I wish I could.  I really want to.  I've been wanting to get down to Art on Fire for years now and just never seem to be able to get there.  Same for the meetings.  Just the one I was able to make.  I really wanted to come down to the one that Brian Brazzel was at but it was the same weekend as the big state wide dog show here in Fairbanks.  Seems its always that way.  But, that's ok.  I will make it down when I can.  Hope sooner than later. 

     

    Jeremy, that's one funny pic and it made me laugh.  I needed a good chuckle today.  Thank you.

  4. I have an Incandescent Ironworks swage block, it is a nice casting and finished well. I have not used it much but have been happy with it the few times I have. This block has several interesting shapes which I have not seen on any other blocks. If you want to make eating utensils this is a good block as it has depressions for 2 different size for tines and 2 different size spoons. The spoon depressions are oval shaped for table spoons. It also has the standard ladle depression.

    ​That's going to be my next purchase from them.  I've been wanting a swage block for a long time.  They are rare, rare, rare up here and even though I've found a grand total of two here in the state, I couldn't purchase them.

  5. I went to their site as I had never heard of this brand. I found it interesting that they make a big point that these anvils are cast in the States, then they mention in their materials section that they can get steels imported from China much cheaper than you can from the States. Kind of like , Hey buy our anvil because we make them here, but we won't support steel manufacture here by using steel made here.  That fact alone would make me balk at buying one.

    ​From what I understand the steel they get for the anvils is American steel. 

  6. ​Thanks to you and to the other people who responded as well.  You mention one of a couple things I am worried about regarding it.  The lack of an actual point on the bick is of concern, but I noticed that Steve also offers what appears to be a very nice bick hardy tool for a reasonable price that potentially could offset that drawback for things like the bottle openers you mention.  These days I don't make much other than bottle openers so having a good point right on the anvil is also very important to me.  The other thing that is of concern to me is the position of the pritchel hole.  It appears to me to be very far down the flat bick. I have become accustomed to using a holdfast in the pritchel hole to my right, and having my work to the left of that.  I do a lot of small scale modeling of things like leaves and hops flowers and I like to clamp my work to the anvil face with the holdfast while I work with the punches and chisels.  The pritchel hole on the Rhino anvil seems like it is so far down that horn that there will not be enough material thinkness to get a hold fast to clamp well.  It is so far down there I am concerned a holdfast might actually break the end off the horn, if I ever was able to get it to clamp.  Do you have any input you could offer on this concern?  I'd really appreciate it.

     

    (The Papa Rhino was the specific size I was considering)

    ​I made and use a hold fast in the current pritchel hole with no issues at all.  I'm currently upgrading my hold fast to a type that is actually a drill press clamp.  I have the clamp just need to get some 1" square and tap it for the threads on the clamp.  Its a lockable one.  I have a pic here let me see if I can find it and post it with this.  A good man who is on this site turned me on to the idea.  Dan, he lost his wife last Wed.  So if you could keep him in your prayers I would appreciate it. 

    Drill Press Locking Clamp.jpg

  7. I own a Rhino anvil and its a great anvil.  I would recommend them to anyone.  I own the Papa Rhino 242 lbs.  The only thing I don't like about it is, the horn doesn't come to a point.  Which makes it hard to use on something small.  Like a small scroll or to forge open a bottle opener hole after drifting it.  Stuff like that.  Other than needing a bick for smalls like that I wouldn't trade it for its weight in gold.  Ok I would, but I would immediately buy another one.

  8. I own a Diamondback 2 burner Blacksmith model. I've owned it almost five years and I'm just now getting to the point I need to buy the relining kit. Last time I checked that was about $60. If/when I need another forge, I will buy the same one. I could not be happier with it. I would whole heartedly support anyone's decisions to purchase a Diamondback forge.

  9. Well after a couple of setbacks I'm back on this project.  I totally have no idea what I'm doing.  So I'm going ahead anyway!  I found out that I had the Alaska steel cut the stock to short and have to do it in two pieces riveted together instead of one long piece and riveted at one end.  Live and learn.  I know what to do next time.  And now that I'm sitting here thinking about it.  I just cut a piece to short again.  Dag nab it!  I'll make it work.  So, first the frame pieces then the legs.  I need to get my propane tank refilled, it freezes up after about an hour now.  Makes the shop nice and warm though.  Ok back at it.  I'll post some pics later this evening.

×
×
  • Create New...