K. Bryan Morgan

I love the episodes with Peter Ross on the Woodwrights Workshop.  I really liked the one about the upset corners.  He really explained the process well.  To bad he's not a member here.  He would be a great asset to our community. 

Well I'll see if I can find the episode online tomorrow or next week now that its going to be aired.  Thanks for the heads up though.  Its great to see our craft getting some air time.  Even if it is not airing in all markets.

Looks like they are not showing this in Fairbanks... all I got to say about that is .... PHOOHEY!!!!  :(

There are quite a few people doing it.  From Cold Steel to people who supply the Medieval European Martial Arts Guild with weapons.  Lots of information on the internet.  Google is your friend.

I would repeat to you what has been said to me.  Buy a  known steel so you know what kind of heat treat to do.  Steel is cheap.

That would make anyone a proud work knife. 

If you use rockwool insulation it will be even quieter.  And fire proof to 2300 deg f.

I can't use the words I want to because they will just end up looking like this.  XXXX XXXXXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX

Shop vacc may be to much blast for charcoal. A cheep Walmart hair drier with the heating eliment disconnected might be enough. I've seen an old automotive heater blower in a cutdown coffee can. I added an old flore starter switch and a rheostat you have instant on off (deadman switch) and air control. (I used to be an automotive mechanic before reinventing my self as a farrier)

Shop vac plus dimmer switch.  I have been using this for four years and it gives me very precise control.  In the picture link I provided I'm using charcoal.  I use coal now but it worked just fine for charcoal.

Popular mechanics did do an article back in the day, they also revisited it just in the last few years.
As Tommas points out, your going to have to fill the sink near level, except for a deep bowl in the middle. Make the bowl about 8" deep and about the size of your two fists put to gether. A nice trick is to take a 2" pipe cap, drill a 3/4" hole in it and make your bowl a bit deeper to acomidate it. That way slag runs down beside it and wont pool on top of it. The advantage purported by PM is that a double bowl sink gives you a forge and slack tub in one unit.

Here's the updated article:  http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/metalworking/4303543  This is totally doable.  You can use clay kitty litter, unscented with no additives, just get it damp enough to make a ball in your hand.  Let it dry thoroughly and get to work.  I used a break drum for a fire pot and that is also something you could add.  Put a piece of pipe through the drain and a floor flange then bolt to break drum.  Fill in with kitty litter.  Done.  Use a small cheap shopvac for blast and a lamp dimmer switch.  Mine is a slider type.  Its been sitting out in the weather for four years and never had a problem, so it will work.  I used black iron pipe for mine.  Your stand can be made of just about any material up to and including wood.  For mine I used metal 2x4s. '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>  Take pictures and post them.  Have fun.  And don't worry, you will burn metal.

If I were to do a dirt floor this is the way I would do it.  This is a  construction technique I learned over 30 plus years ago. 

I would first dig out 6 to 8 inches below grade.  After that I would compact with a plate compactor.  I would then lay a layer at least 2 inches thick of crushed limestone.  Then compact.  Then 2 more inches of crushed limestone.  Then compact.  Repeat until I get a level substrate.  At that level which should be about 4-5 inches below grade I would switch to course clean sand.  Yup, you guessed it, about 2 inches then compact, repeat until 3 1/2 inches below grade.  Then I would stop.  Get out the chop saw and start cutting 4x4's four inches long.  Or actually now that I think about it 3 1/2 inches long so they are square.  precision at this is needed so the flooring is square and level.  Once the floor is filled in with wood squares fill all the small gaps, and they will be there, with fine patio polymeric sand.  And compact.  The last step is to get the polymeric sand wet.  It doesn't take a lot of water.  Just enough to get it damp.  The sand will set up and lock everything into place.  Your floor will be stable.  Won't move and won't burn.  Even though its wood.  You could even use pressure treated lumber.  Its treated with copper these days and is much safer to use than the old stuff was. 

Nice start.  I always tell people to use what you make that way you know if it's good or not.  I hope that blade works for you.  I've seen people say it's L-6 or some other tool steel.  The first ones I got (about 100lbs worth) didn't test out too well. It acted to me like 1070.  I found a faint name stenciled on a peice and sure enough, with a litte research I found it was basically 1070 and not some exotic alloy.  My little knife I use for the leather work was a blade made from a band saw that was used for cutting steel I beams.  It was some awesome stuff, that source changed the blades they were buying however and the ones they are buying now aren't near as good.  Look forward to seeing the finished knife.

Thanks JM.  I don't know exactly what it is.  I was told either L6 or 15N20 by the gentleman who gave it to me.  He believes its 15N20 by the way it works.  He's got a ton more experience than I do so I'll take his word for it.  He's an excellent bladesmith.  Anyway, its extremely hard and tough.  I can't even get a file to touch it.  So I figure as long as I don't get it to hot I shouldn't have an issue with heat treat or temper.  I'll have to work on it tomorrow as my time for the rest of today is limited.

Looks good, I'll show you the one I will be working on after I get more propane since I am out, I am using wagon wheel Iron for the handle and a cable damascus blade.

Thanks.  Its coming along.  We went into town and I dun forgot to get the durn tongue oil.  grrrrrrr.  I hope to see progress on your version soon.

Nice looking job right there.....Have you tried it out yet?

I'm still finishing it.  I'm going to get some oil finish for it today and work on it.  Once I get it finished and scary sharp I'll post some pics.

Well it took longer than I wanted it to, but I've gotten it almost finished.  I need to do a few things yet.  Put a finish on the handle and get some small scratches out of the blade.  And sharpen it of course.  The Gorilla Glue Epoxy I used isn't visible, it dried clear which is nice.  Its the five minute setting type.  I understand I should use a longer drying time glue but its what I could get.  Not a huge number of choices her in the hinterlands of Alaska.

As far as I know they are pretty good steel to use.  What type of steel is a mystery to me but I think it would work fine for that.  I have seen people who use mild steel for drifts too.  As far as I understand things you don't need to heat treat them because they will be used hot and frequently get into the temps that would ruin a heat treat anyway. 

That is wonderful Beth.  Don't beat your self up.  You did very good work there.  Its a fantastic job.

He listed a 4" post vise for something like $800 too didn't he? Yeah, he got really upset when folk didn't beat a path to his door to pay stupid money for old tools. Wait a second, are you talking about the guy off Fairview Loop, or is there another one in your neighborhood?

 

See any smithing tools at auctions Bryan? Auctioneers around here don't make any bones about having ringers in the audience and reserve the right to jack a price up if they don't like the current bid. Anything that even looks like a blacksmith tool goes for stupid money. A couple years ago I saw about 40lbs. or RR rail with a pointy end go for some $250+ because it was an anvil. a pair of beat up pickup tongs went for $57 at an auction last fall but the ringer only had to fake a bid twice to get it there.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

You know that sounds familiar.  He very well may be the same guy.  In Big Lake?  I think.  I havn't been to any auctions.  I am afraid I would cry.  I totally believe it though.

Pretty anvil poor here abouts. there are anvils around but most were brought in fairly recently. Well, heck Alaska history is pretty recent, here in the Mat-Su valley the "boom" was depression relocation farmers. You find smithing tools every now and then but not a lot and what you do find are "antiques" because they're old. I know of a couple guys who've accumulated quite a bit of smithing and farm equipment from the colony days but they ain't a turning loose of any of it. They think they're going to set up a museum and folk will flock out to see it.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty your so right.  People here think blacksmithing tools are a retirement investment.  I had one guy try to sell me a 100# Arm and Hammer anvil for $1200 on craigs.  Some of the guys had razzed him over the price and he got upset.  Ah well.. I'll keep keeping on.

If only I didn't live almost 8000 miles away.  :blink:  Looks like everyone had a wonderful time.  This is definitely on my to do list.

Nice start!

Hope to get it close to finished today.

That's looking good....gotta love making your own tools. Can't wait to hear how it performs!

Its either L6 or 15N20 either way its good and hard.  As long as I don't let it get too hot I shouldn't have to do any heat treat to it.

heya KB I was asked to make one of those lately myself once I get it roughed out Ill show some pics.

Hey there hope your doing well.  I look forward to seeing your version.

I started making a skiving knife today.  If I'm going to be making knives, I have to work with leather and a good skiving knife is a critical tool to have. I could have just as easily bought one but this is much more fun.  I have a large piece of bandsaw blade from an old wood sawmill.  I got it cut to shape and ground out.  Then started the tedious task of sanding all the rust off.  I got the handles roughed out and the pin holes drilled in the handle and in the blank. Then go it sanded to 800 grit.  I don't know if I want to go much further.  I don't have a buffer.  Its on the list though.

Try this.

Why not just cut some angle iron shims and place them in the hardy hole?  You only need to shim up two sides.  Or, if you feel ambitious you could do all four.