Pigsticker

Ifcw it is a cheap venturi that came in an eBay w forge in a kit under $80dlvd. It is the original burner ( except I replaced exactly the 8" pipe and I've taken the 2" to 1" conversion flare ( increase) at the bottom M yes I have a hole. It was someone's odd ******** idea to harden the shell of my forge. Sounds ridiculous but it took three brand new bits to illuminate and convince me. Drilling hardened metal is 30% of the reason I'm recoating so quickly. This layer of kol is over what was a once fired layer of kol and matrikote installed in haste and thus poorly. It had a few large cracks but I learned a lot in doing a poor job and think this one's good. I say this because I know this patch was far less extreme than the initial "full lining". ( Only put on in small increments etc). I did see steam shoot out from under the forge twice Thanks I'm trying to make sure after all this 3layer forge treatment it's at least kaowool safe Tx

Well not yet...is this gap around the burner tube on top of the forge ok. Is it gas safe, heat safe, KAOWOOL safe. The t at the top left of the pic mixes air into the propane, I believe.its windy as heck today and I'm having trouble keeping my flame going. Now that it's hot it's better. Is it possible that those two big circles might be breathing the wind that blows me out. I tried to cover the forge openings with bricks but kept getting blown out. Is it the big t in my venturi blowing out my flame and if so how can I best shade the wind. Into the t, 45 degree, 90 degree or coffee cup n tape etc. Many thanks The bottom pic is at 7 psi rolling Tues 12:20pm

Thanks for chiming in guys

Wow, I was way off. Everyone, I thought, was saying propane doesn't get hot enough reliably to weld. I knew coal forges get up to 3000k but I've "seen" coal scorch metal . I thought I read butane is in the 800's. I'm pretty sure my vague familiarity is with torch 's btu rating. I had tried to find a gas torch to tack together billets before I weld it. Does that mean there is a gas torch invented that goes up to 2500 degrees or so that I could tack with? I know it's not a great example, a bond made at 700 degrees to hold metal at 2200 won't work. Fascinating to know 3800 is possible. Is there anything commercially available over 3 k? As long as the forge stays hot, it would cut reheat times about 40%, right. Side ? What is minimum temp to hit cable being welded without separating it? Red seems way too cold. If you need 2100 to weld, and 1700 to forge, can you start each pass by hammering to weld and hammering to forge? Many thanks guys. I think I must have been looking at cigarette lighters btu info. Tx The only reason I'd be open to gas torches, it because I have the faintest experience w gas burners. I've never ig'ed anything(t or m) and have enough random skills. I'm really floored propane gets so hot.y old zippo never did. Tx

Thanks. couldn't process how propane could burn away cable if it only got to about 2000. Spent way to much effort on the temperature gun an not learning steps. From the factory my forge was supposed to be 2600 ready (with refractory and rigid). When I read how far off advertised vs actual temps were it made me realize the forge guys probably say reviews are just as judgemental and inaccurate. So, with such a rapid cool down, a forge with metal in it would be an obstacle to the 3000k cooling? Wow 3000 degrees. Thank you

Thank you. I thought that propane only got about 2-2100 degrees. That explains a lot more of this mystery. What would the max temp of near all blue flame. Does having metal in the forge allow a forge to run hotter? It seems like any solid bump on the blue flame would hold the fuels together long enough to achieve maximum hear. Right, maybe? Thank you

Wait. You're calling dials and gauges In reference to just the gauge part. No one is saying no regulator. Glad I caught that. I wasn't even reading when it hit me like a bolt of lightning. That's why I just lay my trash in the can instead of dropping it to the juicy depths.

Is the deftly hidden message above about: you heard pressure go down as your tank emptied then you upped the regulator because hiss equaled the temp regardless of pressure adjustments on dials? This is all w tank wide open right? Are fire bricks referred to henceforth about2.5" thick or the 1.25" bricks? You keep your propane tank heated??? We've already got down in the 50's but I'm not gonna hold a lighter to the tank to heat it. I used to tell people how they could scramble eggs by shaking it and putting it in the microwave 3 min. I'm not sure if or when my proofreader will return from brunching in a vest with squirrels , cheeses and fruit (fruit is plural EVEN without an s) so let me wish you all the merriest of Christmas and 2023 gonna rock. Thank you (Above was no cussing, ribbing of Frosty, nothing disrespectful intended)

I think that means there is nickels in it. Metallurgical reference

After all reading previous correspondence, I realized my pipe and reducer are marked as 3/4" pipe on the t fitting on original venturi setup. Am I definitely wrong? Side note- I have a brand new 1"x8" stainless pipe threaded and a 1"x2" unthreaded reducer if anyone wants to start the bidding war on my erroneously ordered 1st attempt. Let's go $80 and up, reserves exist and boy, this is shiney metal. Thanks

Many thanks Sirs. I've been adjusting only the tank valve and the cutoff. I'd never put it together that it should be open always and just using the regulator. So how hot can a propane forge hit? I knew mine was having trouble hitting a welding temp before but I thought there was a limit to propane's heat maximum. Can I hit 2600 degrees with bricks up at 12-15 psi or am I being crazy? Here's another one, can I air dry my rigidizer solely? It be a real mod 42 to wait for inbound forge metal parts. I have kastolite ready to go but if Ive gotta wait til I get forge parts that adds like 5 days. I saw old postings from both you guys on rigidizing and heat curing it or not. I've spent too much time and loot on all this to have kaowool concerns. I really coated it in a lot of rigidizer ( I'm rebuilding my newly built forge from a heavy crumbling and 1/2 lb of melted cable on the floor encountered on initial firing. And they should have something in 101 on metal pipe sizing and achronisms. thanks again for helping

Then why wouldn't a 135btu work with regulator on 3 psi. The orders cancelled but building knowledge here and thanks

I have cancelled the 135psi, found a new stainless reducer and got a new pipe on the way. I have an adjustable regulator. Do you open gas 100% and then control temp with regulator alone? Many thanks

No to drill press. just an impact driver. I was hoping the whole mislabeling of btu might work "for" me. Can't I use the regulator on my hose already and just run it at 3 psi? As usual, many thanks Unless you think 135psi is a bad idea. Thanks

The one I ordered is 130k btu burner. The burner I'm replacing is 100k and it melted a little puddle of steel on my new forge floor. Matrikote was expensive but if I steelkote something it's for free apparently.

nevermind, I broke down and bought more kastolite and matrikote, ( I found small quantities at least.) The whole kaowool thing has me watching out for my little one. I think I know what the answers are. thanks thanks for size help on venturi too. I'm going with stainless because it melts slower and I'm gonna reread 101 for a while

I just figured out the burner is everything between fuel line and actual fire. Ok and any burner will fit too. Right? thanks Mikey

Thanks guys. will this 1/2" Burner go on exactly or will do I need adapters. I was also gonna have to cut the existing venturi tube out. Just get the same size of any material? The old burner is stick to it and won't unscrew. I don't know the names of the venturi parts, but the fuel tube goes through the forge walls and then I screwed on a burner, and then used set screws to hold the tube in place vertically . I packed refractory on the top of this burner cause everything said it pack it too to save. If I cut all that out of place, will the forge be ok to burn again without kaowool attention. Many thanks for helping guys

,This is the one really chipped side where blanket is exposed and the other is to show burner in relation to hole. I can't go any higher because I built up around the chimney like it said to. is this forge ok to use with a plan for fixing it in sight or has the young lad been hurt Thanks

I just remembered several broken firebricks I found yesterday. I could definitely one lay one over the steel?

Now that I've built the forge thicker, I've only got about 4" of burner room. I still have to weld my stuff. In all honesty it was probably as much duration as heat. It was never on my radar. Sorry so slow in posts today Many thanks for your help

Anybody know what size burner I need to replace this one? It the smallest size ( I assume) for a 5x7x9. Many thanks yal

And thank you tp, you told me to hit it. it ran through my head the other night made and sense. when I was hot enough to weld it finally so I hit it. I'd spent months working on the light tap but this was like molten metal and it take some blows just fine. I wasn't coming up with anything and then I remembered " hit" it successfully. There's a huge difference in hot and cold metal Tx Autocorrect is a murder. I'm unclear enough Tx

It's funny you bring this regulator thing up. My forge appears to have one too. It runs fine at 2-3 psi but this was at 13.5-15psi. Do you use that regulator thing to adjust heat? I was barely opening the tank for red flames and the cutoff to. Never considered regulator. What's a good psi or size flame out of the forge when rolling. I looked for the steel I was burning around my basement sure I'd not taken it out and left it to the side. Checked everywhere Thank you I even lost 3 brand new k26 bricks to breakage? They weren't falling over and they weren't broken when I set them down but they were when I picked them up Tx

Thank you very much for your advice. If I just cover up the metal and cracks w matrikote, will there be any poison smoke from burnt steel? It's seems firmly stuck to the floor. I have no kastolite left or matrikote. I could definitely live with just buying 1 more baggy of matrikote. I've been concerned about how much trouble spews out from those cracks, it seems as if they'd break ofter Thanks I now know my forge gets hot "enough" Didn't realize i melted the burner until I saw it in the picture Tx again