Pigsticker

I didn't think it would "smoke" but Ive already rebuilt a brand new forge due to melting cable and I just want to use it. I was hoping I'd found a last chance indicator for overheating cable ( it was obvious to my eyes think I could spot it again, figures) Tx Pigus X If all xxxx breaks loose, can I use a section of I beam as a v swage? I'm using a piece of rail on it's side but think I might need a more distinct 90 degrees angle to hammer into.( Or I could be wrong Thanks and enjoy yals Sunday football or tea parties, if so inclined.

I got my ends welded the other week, but I can't remember how. I Think I got a great twist, then started hammering about 3" in from the end, but wasting 3" of good cable is enough to go t.. Does steel emit smoke when it burns? I got a puff of smoke once but assumed I found a bit of collected cable lube. I still took the cable out and hammered it but it definitely didn't seem hot enough. Thank you all. Pig S.

Many thanks for your prompt reply. I thought it might work based on misunderstanding the half dome swage. I thought it was a receiver for a "tamp". I didn't realize you hit the sides of the cable as it rests flat. Just figured that out while typing it. Tx again

Hello all. Hope all is well with you all Got a few quickies today. It was suggested on a previous submission, a learned smith was able to smith with something other than hammer. That prompts me to want to tap my steel butter colored cable on floor to weld ends. Any thoughts. I'm confident I have the strike to weld, equally confident I don't know what it is. Should a forge that is layered with butter covered by kastolite then a heavy coat of butter topped with matrikote turn dark colors on the floor of the forge with use or does it maintain a white color? If there anything that would weld the ends of steel cable while it cuts it or is there a cheap fuel torch I can use the just spray with heat to weld ends without forging ( hammer). Like burning cheap boat rope or hair? Want the 2" steel cable to clump as much as id need. Thanks all Pig Sticker No cusses. This the alchemy afternoon dlt posting board right?

Thank you sir. Thank you for your direction. I'll still be a spotreader. I'll keep an eye out to see if you guys start recommending the forge butter

this is my second but first remaining billet from cable. The hammering is bad, but it will check knee reflexes on me, wife and our lovely four year old daughters knees in three rather light wraps . As promised, pigsticker's going radio silence. Ima keep reading though. Thanks for help to all who tried. Anybody ever need any help w ascertaining any woods working properties or physical presence, let me know. 2 biggest revaluations 1) If I feel I'm far enough along to summon others to my location I can make a newbie post . Beyond the tears, what I actually found inside that pulpy onion cable forging is these days. ( I wont though). 2)the guys on this site really don't emphasize the importance of buttering. It's how pyramids were built. Just a heads-up.. not real butter, means spritz w water. Sww is shorter but butter is placid on linguistics don't cha know? Au Revoir 52 countries

Thank you s. I was wondering what I was missing. Simple solutions are usually really degenerative. I thought it'd look like some bully broke my rail and kicked me off the beach when I went down. Pig Gbl gbl Thanks for chiming in Mail rail even whispered to me she'd go up to 2.5" cable no problem

Goods and BB Time to ruin my day.... I "realized" a rail on it's side makes a GREAT 2" cable swedge. It works well and quickly. Will I find I've destroyed my rail anvil now that it has 2 uses? Gbl gbl

BB Good stuff, thank you. I think my major problem is I'm putting all my woes on everything but the heat. I think my prob is simply being too cold all the time, except for melting cable in brand new forges. I do like that I guess. It was a testament to how evenly I was heating the whole pieces to melt them in forge and the little 5" handles melted and went in the forge too. I'm not sure why but I think that's impressive. "Pig making Gobble noises" Happy tday all and remember to pass the turkey to the left hand side . I've got more 1 time use stuff than allows room for a stick welder.im still trying to figure this forge. I'm concerned as to my future if I make a second blade and don't need it. And do do you know the type carcinogens involved with rebuilding a mig? I don't. Have a great holiday all Lastly, I'm thinking I'm welding even darker colored parts of cable when I get to heat. Am I just making the dish spicy? Does a cables propensity to unwind diminish as it gets welded or will strand still try collectively to fracture away from the mass? Thanks Gbl gbl

Glenn ok I finally got mine hot enough I could see it working with a wooden pounding. Point taken Sts- all golden stuff. I guess I could look for a guy to mig my cable. Do you have a "look" I could look for in a willing welder who would be free to do your idea? Boonie hat, linen safari suits (ct huh), shades, even chain wallets? People seem to know when helping me isn't helping themselves a bit. Every time. Is the reading you recommend like the 101 they talk about in the posts? Here an update pic

And does my dragons breath out the forge in above pics of show a "good" non oxidizing flame. Tx Has anyone heard of clamping and crimping over steel cable to seal the ends. I was looking at crimps I think it would be awesome to be able to spend 100$ on banding equipment and be able to start w sealed ends. I wrap the ends in wire now but it isn't rigid enough to pound en masse. Tx

Glenn- this morning I woke up vexxed by the implications of your post. Was the important part that the guy used wood covered in water, or that anything capable of holding water will have this effect? I don't get out much. Tx

BB where do you first shots land. On the 45, crushing side of cable etc? I missed that whole part the first read

Thanks guys. Goods- if I use a rail and don't have an anvil, what type, size, setup and angles do I need for2". Gnm if I meet a gun welder I'll have him put my spit out about 15'. It's a good 2" line, she'd hold. Bb- out of disgust this cable or wire sat in a little pipe bomb I built (w pvc, 2 caps , kerosene and some glue for one side.) For about 1 month soaking in kerosene .I try and burn lil bits of kerosene to keep it newer kero. I pick it up and shake it like a rain stick. Plus this metal cable and or wire has been pretty clean on inside and the soaks aren't turning kero "black". Your last paragraph describes what I want better than I knew. Sts I tried to hammer first on the ends lightly twice, then gave up and twisted half the length in each direction after 8 min soak. Then back to light color chasing w a mallet. This is inaugural metal heating redo after melting a lot of cable in my aggressively insulated forge. Heres pic of nights breath. Forge is cold in in pic. It's in the 50"s tonight and it's outside and 15 sec or less o flame. Is flame size ok enough and does hole around burner effect me. This is 4 th time trying for that answer. I have locust concerns. Tx

Ngun it's a little 'fancy' fiskers mallet. Nothing special. In an odd set of happenstance, whatever I lack in judgement or knowledge I mitigate w raw strength. It's a problem. I only need so much picked up. Does my pick at least show good prewelding where you use the light strokes? Glenn, that idea seems really cool and I have free time. Does the pic above look hot enough to mortar mold? I happen to possess large amounts of ultra dense tropical hardwoods needing a purpose. Goods, I don't even know how to respond but I think I'm moderatorable. What is the difference and I'll call cable monkey now to find out. What is it's the wrong stuff. Will it not work????? I'm cooking my turkey on a $300+ spit made of aebl, cra and crm 154, damasteel and lots of cable.

Hey guys. Sorry I'm in the delightful afternoon postings. Trying to keep m42 busy. Just a few questions. Does pic 1 show???? 1) I need more flux. Was only done w 30 percent of flux. Or 2) it wasn't hot enough? 3) can I throw this right back in forge to finish it? 4) hammer size and stroke. I sent shakes down into the earth with a short 4 lb hammer. Would slapping it do better. Ive even got a 2 lb if I should be flapping it . 5) not meant as an insult but they make cordless thermometer guns and I'm starting to figure it out. Does anyone familiar with the specific temperatures know what temp to pull cable to weld it knowing it will cool quickly. I've been pulling this last whole time when I get a 2200. I'll stay there til someone says shoot 2300. I know the interior of the metal is different temp but these guns are too reliable for me to disregard. ( I need it too much) Question based on the following assumptions Welding at 2000-2300 degrees Shaping at 1700-2000 degrees Over 1900 degrees gets quickly degenerative I can leave metal for hours at 1700, pick it up anytime and it will be warm enough to shape but will not degenerate from cold status right?? If the above 4 are right: ***How do I know metal is welded enough to drop the temp to shaping temps and isn't just an attempt at welding below heat. Thanks and your turkey has incredible drumsticks

Smoothed out with matrikote, illustrated above, is what I've heard. This shows the roof of the forge from the inside. Around the tube/ burner end in the pic above is where Im thinking about stuffing kaowool to maintain my reflected heat. Skip the where does the burner go question, does anybody know why I would or wouldn't seal this junction. Tx for reading I edited photos above because it said to save Greg by no big pics somewhere in the 101 and I had 7 new and old photos all on the post. ( I finally got him and mod 42 distracted. The temp thing wasn't nitpicking. Its always seemed like whatever youre willing to say ouch to will hurt.

I don't eat the swine but you feel the under 600s when you touch it immediately. There to 1000s you should feel it before you touch it. Real heat is typically determined by pace length and duration of the body's normal movements to gouge out a meaty heat hole without notification. I think it's nice to know when it's happening. I'm having trouble with pics today but I think it's the same place in pic one and 2. I changed some pics so I'm not sure. If these pics show it too low I can easily put the tip at the set screws. I can go higher too need be Tx And 2nd pic is of the outside off the forge laying on its side. It looks like the inside tx And can you use matrikote as a brick glue or do you need to be thinking surface bonding cement? Tx again

500 is residential kitchen temps, should live ( I'm not talking about getting it harpooned in a love handle, just accidental touch burns). The pic shows my interpretation of where I've interpreted to set the tube for burning with nothing attaching to end increasing in size.. it doesn't appear to build up enough tip heat to melt the tube as long as I keep as much out as possible 2 nd pic is good as possible to portray where burner is forgewise internally. I can matrikote around the tube to reflect the heat back down. I tried to say earlier that I don't think enough heat is at the top of the tube where the flame comes out to melt the hood again. The hood now being the unflaired end of said tube (8" long x big looking 3/4" pipe that's flame end of forge. This is exactly where the tube goes into the opening and where the fire come out of the tubetx

it crossed my.mind this am the tube that shoots flame from my burner is probably hot due to Proximity to blazing forge instead of the heat rising from the flame at the tip. if it doesnt matter even better. i know not to get a cherry but letting the tube get to 500degress over an active forge wouldnt be a people burn hazard in in my eyes? good morning all and thanks. Tgif I think Pig Remember, he who wants freedom must strike the first blow. F D Tx

To clarify 3 above. Is the forge being blown out by wind in burners airholes, from wind blowing through the forges front to back openings, air blowing down the side of the tube and through the opening around the tube.(Less than 1/3" gap) or could it be all three. I've seen lighters just blow out but had hóped the force behind the rumbling burning would keep a forge lit. If gas is explosive how can it get blown out.? Thought the spark of ignition was "faster than light" (explosion brevity) Thanks guys. I wrote the last ones fireside optimistically. , 1 can you blow out a forge with 20 mph gust if it's well tuned. I've seen a turkey drier blow out but it was howling outside. I ran with my forge to a more wind protected spot where I got it running unmolested, so. 2 Is a properly tuned burner smooth or does it sputter some. Im afraid to spend time trying to tune a perfectly calibrated burner or waste hours over a poorly running but tuneable forge. 4. Is all this tuning the difference in 40 degrees over or under 2600 or the difference of 1200&2300 degrees. Like does tiny burner movements in or out of forge effect a 50 degree range. I'm really not trying for anything "optimal" just functional. 5 I did last "low" heat torch burn in on kol today and noticed the "big" 3/4" tube got warm after about 10 minutes. Can that kind of heat cause a problem rising through the burner cause problems. It wasn't scald me hot but getting in to over 400 degree temp. I could seal the burner in w matrikote if I know it's doing well enough to set. Tx again

Thanks guys. I wrote the last ones fireside optimistically. , 1 can you blow out a forge with 20 mph gust if it's well tuned. I've seen a turkey drier blow out but it was howling outside. I ran with my forge to a more wind protected spot where I got it running unmolested, so. 2 Is a properly tuned burner smooth or does it sputter some. Im afraid to spend time trying to tune a perfectly calibrated burner or waste hours over a poorly running but tuneable forge. 4. Is all this tuning the difference in 40 degrees over or under 2600 or the difference of 1200&2300 degrees. Like does tiny burner movements in or out of forge effect a 50 degree range. I'm really not trying for anything "optimal" just functional. 5 I did last "low" heat torch burn in on kol today and noticed the "big" 3/4" tube got warm after about 10 minutes. Can that kind of heat cause a problem rising through the burner cause problems. It wasn't scald me hot but getting in to over 400 degree temp. I could seal the burner in w matrikote if I know it's doing well enough to set. Tx again

It's not lighting, but I have a t-shirt in the holes. Wind is steady 20 so I can't tell if it's just my lighter doesn't work orr something "else". I can definitely smell gas when I open it. Would something like earmuff shapes work better to block the wind. Last one do healthy gas forges get blown out by strong gusts if they get blown through openings, like blowing out the flame by the base of the flame only. Sorry, that was long. Tx

Wouldn't it make automatic heat increase to increase the size of the tube. It does say 3/4 on this tubes receipt also. Tx

This is the adapter that's from 3/4" increasing to 2". So I think it's 3/4", but it is huge compared to pvc 3/4" The pipe is 8", but with an inch to screw in the bottom and top, it's det, it measures 6" gap. If it'll just be like a stovetop in in it's efficiency I'll be happy, or I put the pipe in extrA two inches long on purpose. I thought backing it away from the forge was a new safety step to keep the 2 large airholes from the fire and keep the fuel hose from getting to hot if I leave the forge hole around the burner open