Naz

Nice one ! Very clean details !!!

Count me in !

Naz

Try RE Caddy company, everything for broom makers - http://www.recaddy.com/ec/index.php?osCsid=e1684418d00ebedf56304b053bd8f261

I do like your dragons!

Mark<><

What I enjoy the most has to be dragon heads, they all seem to have their own personallity, you can play with the mouth, eyes, ears/horn to change his expression (happy, angry, etc...).
What I hate the most are special orders with precise instructions wich leaves no place to let your imagination and creativity flow.

Naz

I thaught about doing the (ad on) broom solution but never found a broom I liked enough.
Plus I like trying new stuff.
I'll see what I find first, a nice broom to ad on a forged handle or nice broomcorn to corn on a broomed corned forge.(I need some rest now).

Naz

Thanks for the tips guys,
I sent a message to R. E. Caddy and Company Inc. asking about their fees on shippind and handling.
I often have surprises when orders have to cross the border (I'm in Montreal, Canada).
Just glad to have found a place that do sell in bulk.
As to growing my own, i'll have to check up on that, not everything grows up here with the long cold winter.

Naz

Really like it, been watching your posts in silence here not always replying but always impressed.
Nice style, honest work.
Anxious to see what's next !

Naz

Thanks, but I'm actually looking for the broom corn itself to make the broom myself.
I agree on the quality of their brooms, but they don't seem to sell the corn alone.

Thanks
Naz

Well, here I am ready to try making a broom.
Only one last detail, where can I buy broom corn ???

Sounds easy to find but I made a google search and had no luck.
Any suggestion, links would be appreciated.

Thanks !!

Naz

Personnaly, I don't find it's time consuming.
I sometimes stamp the piece when the work is done and it's still hot, I take one last heat and "Bam", Done.
Other times, I heat with the torch only where I will be stamping, and "Pow", Done.
I had a client that baught me a dragon chandellier (in a craft fair) that I had made before I had my stamp.After paying me, asked if I could sign it and he would pick it up at my house. That was a 50 miles detour for him.I thaught it was quite flattering.

Naz

Looks good Clinton !
I really like the "bell" you made for the transition between the broom and the handle.
And you used rivets everywhere, I love rivets !
Nice job !!
Naz

What Bob said !
Also, in this situation with 1/4" stock I would have adjusted (tapped)the legs cold.
I know too well how frustrating this can be, sometimes with these little "off-symetrical" variation, it looks more hand-made.
All in all, it turned out very nice.

Naz

I love this little guy,trade his axe for a hammer and I'll take him as a striker any day.
Seriously,awsome work ! Very original and different !
Keep at it, can't wait to see what's next !

Naz

The guy selling thinks it's the actual weight (158) and claims Henry Wrights are rare.
His asking price is $450.00. I offered $2.00/pound ($320.00) before I actually go see it. And then I would have to do the rebound test etc...
He didn't answer yet, I'll wait.
If anyone else has any info on Henry Wright anvils, please send it my way.
Thanks for the answers so far !

Naz

Wondering if they are both from the same fabricator and could someone clarify the weight on this one.
It's a Henry Wright and the numbers (1 5 8) are clearly punched.
The English Hundredweight System tells me the quarter middle position must be 0,1,2 or 3. In this case it's a 5 ???

Naz

Thank's for sharing your knowledge, I decided to make a bigger pin and up-sized the barrels by drilling (7/16" in this case). That gave me a tighter overall fit.
I also went with the loose pin option , I think it did save me a lot of trouble and I don't see any disadvantage either.
Thanks again for everyone's reply, they really helped in making this project turn out good !

Naz

Thank's for sharing your knowledge, I decided to make a bigger pin and up-sized the barrels by drilling (7/16" in this case). That gave me a tighter overall fit.
I also went with the loose pin option , I think it did save me a lot of trouble and I don't see any disadvantage either.
Thanks again for everyone's reply, they really helped in making this project turn out good !

Naz

Finally made a pair of strap hinges.
When I move the hinge with the (temporary) pin installed, I get some tight and loose spots. I plan to rivet the pin on both ends.
Here's the question :
After I rivet everything up, can I heat the whole working section to tighten everything and work the hinge back and forth to get a reasonable slack. (Like when we adjust a pair of thongs, then heat the pivot section and work it in the slack tub) ?
The stock is 1/4" thick.
Thanks in advance !
Naz

That would be David Robertson.

Original, I like it !

I like it, nice job !

Naz

What Jeremy said, and if the iron is still not ready I'll do some sketching,measuring, cutting on the band saw, grinding,put away tools I don't need for the job, etc...
I do this when I'm working with the gas forge.
With the coal forge, I have a hand cranked blower so it basically comes down to me cranking the blower between heats.

Prayers sent from Montreal, stay strong !

Naz

Anyone know where I can buy "bare" wood screws to match my ironwork ?
(I use a wire brush followed by sandpaper wich leaves the work at a dull grey with darker spots and some highlights).

I don't want paint or shiny finishes.

I know it sounds easy to find but I haven't had any luck so if anyone has a link could you please send it my way ??

Thanks !!
Naz