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Posts posted by Naz
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Nice, they can soak their feet in the slack tub if they get too hot !
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Cheers from the east (Montreal that is )!!!
Nice job on the gates !
Naz -
The mineral spirits or turpentine (solvent), mostly evaporates away doing little for protection of the metal, that comes from the wax and linseed oil. The linseed oil will cure on exposure to oxygen becoming thicker (it polymerizes).
Essentially, when you mix 1/3 of each you end up with a 50/50 wax to oil mix and the solvent makes it easier to apply. If you want it to be more paint-like and less paste-like, leave the wax to oil mix about 50/50 and add solvent (i.e. mineral spirit). The end mixture will put less protectant on the surface but multiple coats can be applied.
What I like to do is melt the wax (in a container inside a container of hot water - think double boiler) then add about the same amount of linseed oil. Once those are mixed I'll add a small amount of solvent (I generally use turpentine) while it is still warm. Once it cools I'll add solvent until I get the consistency I want.
By the way, once the oil polymerizes, I don't know how or if it can be reversed. If your mix is thickening because the oil is curing, you can't do much about it. I try to use my mix within a month. It usually has gotten to a point beyond usability in about 6 months.
ron
Very clearly explained !!!
Thanks very much to all replies !
Naz -
Thanks for all compliments and advice.
This forum and everyone that takes the time to answer really makes my life easier.
Naz -
I usually use the ol' traditional 1/3 beeswax,1/3 boiled linseed oil and 1/3 varsol (or mineral spirits)and apply to the work when hot to the touch. I really like the results of this mix but as the temperature drops every day here in Montreal, my mix gets thicker and thicker and I would really like it to be more liquid even in cold weather.(I don't heat my shop except when the forge is lit)
I'm about to make another batch with less wax and more varsol and oil hoping the ratio will be good so it stays liquid even when it goes -13 farenheit.
If anyone has a solution for this problem I would love to hear it.
Thanks !!
Naz -
Very nice !
My 9 year old daughter will be making her first communion this year. That would be the perfect gift.
Thanks for the link !
Naz -
I made a curtain pole for myself and made the brackets so the pole runs at 1 1/4" from the wall because I wanted it to be that close to the wall.
Now a client wants 2 of them and I'm wondering what is a common distance to leave from the wall to the pole ?
Are there any other standards I should know when making these ?
Thanks in advance !
Naz -
Very nice detail, what kind of finish did you put on them, how do you get at the bottom of the petals for the final cleaning and finish ?
I've never done a rose before and would like to try one.
Thanks and congrats to you and your neice.
Naz -
I like it as it is but if you're not satisfied with it, you should work it to your liking.
Maybe make another one of different size for smaller stuff and keep this one for big projects.
Mine covers about 1/2" circonference and I can't mark the smaller items.
It is frustrating to double-punch but I calm myself down by convincing myself it looks more hand-made.
Naz -
I need to cut 3and 1/2"round forms in 1/8 thick materiel for candle dish pans.
Is there an easy way to do this?
The only thing I can come up with is cutting square, then octogonal, grind here, cut some more there etc...
I tries a bi-metal round saw and gave up after 10 minutes on the press drill!
Maybe the saw was a cheap one ???
If so, what should I look for in a saw of that type ??
Thanks in advance !
Naz -
Mr NAZ.. how hot to you get the wood before waxing? hot to the touch should burn the handle bad, how do you warm the handles with out burning them? this IS the knife section, and I do not advise waxing the blades. on the other hand if our poster was not paying attention and posted his query here, rather than where it would apply to ironwork...
this IS the knife section. With normal paste wax there is no need to heat the finished handle. using bees wax you may wish to warm ( 100F or so) to get it more pliable. do NOT mix it with any hydrocarbons first.
Steeve, you're absolutely right.
I didn't realize the post was in the knife section, the mix I use which is a common one works great for ironwork but I never made a knife and have no clue on what finish to use on them.
Sorry, my error !
Naz -
Look 2 inches left of this phrase to see mine.
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i am no expert, but if the steel is relatively thin you could do it cold
alec
Well Alec you may be no expert but you do give good advice !
I gave it a shot cold and actually ended up with an acceptable curve.
Thanks for all replies and sorry if I wasn't clear on details. -
You know how that little bump in the supposed-to-be smooth curve can become the only thing you see ?
Well, the beeswax /boiled linseed oil finish is already on and that bump's driving me nuts.
I recall re-heating an already treated item and had problems with the heated section getting all ugly and sticky.
Is this the only way to go ?
Thanks !
Naz -
Same here, I have the 2 burner model and i'm very satisfied with it.
I've had the problem of the 20lb freezing up, switched to a 60lb, that didn't do it.
Now I have a 100lb, hope it won't freeze this winter. It gets pretty cold up here (Montreal,Canada).
But the freezing up thing has nothing to do with the forge maker.
I agree Denis from Diamondback really is a great guy to deal with.
Naz -
That's a great way to learn, I use it to practice dragon and horse heads, different leaves, etc...
My daughter also loves to play with it at the anvil.
I just got the cheapest I could find and it works fine. The thing to remember is that as it works as hot iron, the whole piece of clay has the same maleability as opposed to say heating just the tip of a bar not to distort the rest of it.
Have fun with it !
Naz -
Mark, your positive attitude in a difficult period can only help your wife. Providing her with a strong shoulder to lean on, stay strong.
Prayers sent and more to come ! -
Soak overnight in vinegar. Wash with ammonia and water immediately to neutralize the vinegar, then use stiff brush and water.
Phil
Phil, when you wash with ammonia and water do you make a "bath" of the 2 mixed together ? And what are the proportions ?
I would like to try this method but I heard ammoniac is really dangerous for the health.
Thanks !
Naz. -
Prayers have been sent and more to come !
Stay strong !
Naz. -
Very nicely done,
Thanks and yes, do keep them coming !
Naz. -
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Nice, I like it !
Opens the door to all kinds of ideas !
Thanks !
Naz. -
Looks darned fancy for a tong rack to me NAZ but I like a guy with style.
Heat expansion?! I must be getting hotter!
Frosty the Lucky.
Isn't that in the dictionnary? (expansion)?
Thanks Frosty !
Naz.
Not quite out of gas
in Gas Forges
Posted
I used to keep two 20 pound tanks and switch them around whenever one would freeze up.
Now I have a 100 pound, 60 pound and three 20 pound tanks.( Yeah you could say I'm a bit insecure).
The bigger tank is a good solution for this problem and keep the 20 pound tank for back up.
There's a lot of info on this site as to why the tank freezes and other solutions also.
Naz