Gas Forge Layout Opinions in Gas Forges Posted November 11, 2020 Good Morning everyone, some better news to report today. Since the latest KOL application had cured for 24 hours I moved the forge outside and installed the burners to start the drying process. I would light it up for a few seconds, then shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes while I was working on other stuff. Wash rinse repeat. Kept a fairly consistent wisp of steam coming out of the forge and the KOL was noticeably changing. Light taps with a small wrench where it was dry would produce more of a ring vs the thunk the still wet KOL made. I even put one of the pieces of crumbled floor in the forge to dry it and it became much more difficult to break than an un-dried piece. When turning back over to right side up, none of the new casting fell out so between liquefaction and heat "curing" this time went much smoother. I also realized when turning it back over only half the floor is gone, it broke at about a 35° angle so from the front edge it looked like it all fell (and there was enough material I thought it was the whole floor!) but the back of the floor is mostly intact, so that made me feel a bit better about it as well. In regards to buttering, everything was well wetted before applying the rigidizer. First layer air dried for nearly two weeks before it was completely dry (didn't have the burner running well enough to dry it with that.) I used two complete bottles on this forge and the insulation is crusty but still has a bit of give, does that still indicate that more of the rigidizer should be used? Insulation was also wetted again before applying KOL. I appreciate all the constructive feedback, as always feel free to ask for better information or call me out if needed. I think perhaps the largest issue starting out was not using the correct procedure for applying and curing the KOL coupled with a bit of impatience and feeling rushed.