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I Forge Iron


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Posts posted by NoGoodWithUsernames

  1. Buzzkill, I apologize for not quite understanding. Would you mind typing out your calculations? I gave the over all dimensions of the cylinder I'm using, so if with 2 layers of wool and one 1/2" layer of castable I should be in the ballpark of a 10"Diameter x 9"or10" OAL cylinder I think, which is what I based my calculations on in my previous comment. 

    It's totally possible that I'm off on that so if you don't mind sharing why your calculation is so much different than mine?

    I am all for frugality, I can't imagine I'll be doing anything larger than the 8"x3" door in the back of it (will be the same size on the front), so given there should be a little bit of a lip to retain the fire I am okay getting as close to that as possible/need be. I already need to order more wool so doing a 3rd layer would not be a big deal.

  2. Buzzkill, thank you for that clarification. I thought the Kast O Lite was a form of refractory cement.  I am indeed using KOL-30 ordered from Glenn.

    Paul, once I add insulation to the ends and castable refractory to the inside it should end up at 10" diameter x 9" OAL give or take a little bit. So that's about 440"3, add in the floor and I get about 293"3. (figuring the floor to take up approximately 1/3rd of total cylinders volume) Does that sound like a more acceptable volume for a 3/4" burner?

  3. Mikey,

    Thank you for the feedback! I'd rather here "you did this part wrong" and be able to correct it than to waste time and materials!

    I'll get some more wool on order to double up the ends, I did not calculate it into my order the first time so what you see in the picture is what I have except a few scraps. 

    Yes refractory cement, NOT regular cement. Just called it cement because I was too lazy to type out refractory every time. My bad.

    Burner position sounds good easy enough to move still since I haven't drilled anything.

    Good to know about the floor and Perlite. 


    Thanks again, and if anyone else has input or constructive criticism or even wants to poke fun at it feel free!

  4. I'm building my gas forge with what I could find and that ended up being part of an old water heater, slightly larger diameter than a propane tank forge, and I want to have some more experienced opinions regarding my layout before I cut holes and rigidize and cement everything in.

    The tank is 16.5" ID x about 14" long (not including shallow dome on one end)

    I have the end dome with 1 layer of wool, then two layers around the outside leaving me about 11" ID (not counting 1/2" of cement all the way around of course leaving me with 10")

    I think layering a few extra pieces on the bottom would be beneficial to both reduce volume and get closer to a flat floor without having to pile up the cement on the bottom of the forge as much. Is this a good plan? If not what are better options?

    Also I think having the burner offset aids in "swirl" and helps forge efficiency? Should it end up about flush with the inside of the forge or be recessed into the cement/wool lining a little bit?

    Here is a photo to help visualize what I have/am planning.


  5. Thank you all for the help! I think a big portion of it was not having a "nozzle". I went ahead and put that on last night and tried it out again and was able to get it running much easier, did some rough tuning and get a nice blue flame with some orange wisps at the end. Much more please with that. 

    Also some photos because everyone likes show and tell.






  6. Don't have any right now but can take photos when I get off work. It's built exactly the same as Frosty's. 1"x3/4" Red Tee, 6" nip, 1/4" nip into the middle of the tee with a .035 mig tip threaded into the 1/4" nip. Nothing on the "nozzle end" of the 6"x3/4" nip, maybe it needs a coupler/thread protector or something? 

  7. Managed to put up with the heatwave here in Northern CA long enough to get my T-burner put together and try tuning it... Having very limited success right now and could use some advise...

    As built, and not in a forge (too hot to get more than one layer of ceramic wool installed and rigidizer is still drying...) it will not stay lit. Shortened the MIG tip incrementally until there was only about 1/4" left and still no luck. I ended up trying to cover some of the air inlet with my hand and that got it running, not great but enough that I know it must be running too lean normally. I superglued about 1/3 of another tip onto the end of a new one and it will now stay lit and work at about 1psi on the regulator/gauge. (edit for clarification, will go out if pressure goes much above 1 PSI. Much like with the shorter tip but those wouldn't even stay lit at low pressure.)

    From what I've been reading I think that it's longer than what most people end up using but I can't figure out why mine is so different. I built it exactly according to the directions at the beginning of this thread, nothing is grossly misaligned, so I am semi stumped. And combined with the heat it was a rather frustrating weekend to say the least. I hate not being at least somewhat productive.

  8. My anvil came with a heavy duty 1/4" angle iron stand, but it was a bit too low for me and I just didn't really like it much anyways. So I decided to make a better looking stand and raised the anvil up a touch. 2"x6"s are all glued and screwed together, then strapped and wedged. Forged a staple and a hooked threaded rod to tie down the anvil, and laid down some clear silicone prior to bolting it down.

    Much better sound, I'm sure the neighbors will appreciate it.






  9. Well I got a little impatient. Don’t have cash laying around to build the nice propane refractory quite yet and discovered JABODs today sooooo here we are. First “project” on my new anvil. It’s not great, heck, not even good. But it *IS* and that’s what matters. 
    Burning scrap wood, figured I may as well, see if it gets hot enough. Made a dull red at least so enough to piddle around with a piece of 1/4 round. 
    And... I don’t have a blower so I *was* the blower...



  10. Thank you for that feedback, that sounds like a much better idea than taking a grinder to it and risking removing too much material or gouging the face.

    I think it will take a little bit of a mindset change as I start forging coming from welding and machining, so thank you all in advance for bearing with me as I'm sure to have more dumb questions along the way. But I promise not to try and forge a sword on my first go! 

  11. That seems to be a strange practice, like you wouldn't test out your welder settings on the welder case? Why on an anvil? I suppose they were viewed differently back then huh?

    I have read not to do any work on the face, however would it be okay to touch the spots that look like weld spatter to bring them down flush to the face? If even that is not recommended there is still plenty of smooth working surface, but it would be nice to get rid of the couple bumps there are. (Also attached a few new photos, at least on the classic VW and Porsche forums I am on everyone loves photos so I figured some new photos since most of the paint is removed wouldn't go amiss.)

    Ring and rebound: Ring sounds reasonable to me. It's certainly not dull, and is fairly consistent across similar areas (all areas of face are the same, and areas over the heel, etc.) at this point I have not acquired any ball bearings to drop on it but when lightly tapping with the hammer it feels like the rebound test will have very good results. The hammer, even with the gentle blows to test sound, springs back very easily. Now granted I am a complete rookie so I don't really have a frame of reference, but as far as I can tell from reading about the tests and sounds on here it seems to be in good condition.




  12. Greetings everyone, this is my first post on this fine site though I have been avidly reading for the past few days now. I have been interested in smithing since I was a young boy at Sutter's Fort (historic museum that commonly has living history events) and the smith there "Mr. Biscuits" let me hammer on some sort of soft alloy for a bit while he was actually being productive. Late last year I spent some time in a friends shop making a set of BBQ tools for my FIL as a Christmas gift and have been playing with the idea of getting my own setup going since then. 

    Previously mentioned friend knew I was on the lookout and sent me a craigslist link to a local anvil listed for $800 (hopefully okay to discus pricing on here??) that included an anvil stand, and another stand with small vice and arbor press. Stopped by to check it out with some guidance as to what to look for as far as face condition, and checking for repairs etc. and promptly purchased my first anvil. Yes it was a bit of an impulse buy encouraged by a friend and so far tolerated by the wife, as long as I get some stuff knocked off the "honey do" list prior to piddling around with it too much. :D

    Anywho, got it home and, over the weekend, had a little bit of time to clean the paint off and ID the anvil. The face is pretty dang clean as is the horn, though the waist has been rather abused and possibly used for some .22 target practice?! The only marking visible prior to cleanup was the stamped number by the front handling hole. After I cleaned it up I found "Broo" on the side, "205" under Broo, and "51760" on the front foot, with lots of marks and dings and gouges covering the rest of the logo unfortunately. Between all the clues we deciphered it to a 200# Hay Budden, which I'm very pleased by.

    As far as I can tell, it's a pre 1917 version based on having the handling hole underneath the anvil, and having a serial number that does not start with "A" (from what I can tell it's 51760, rather dinged and difficult to read)

    Is there any way to tell what the actual year of manufacture is? (or at least closer than somewhere between 1892-1917. It would be super cool if it was before the turn of the century. As it is, I think it's really cool that my anvil is already a century old.)






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