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I Forge Iron

Panik

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About Panik

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    Rome, Georiga

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  1. Welshj, I am sorry for not responding sooner. I didn’t see the notification until yesterday when I posted up a different topic. That is some amazing detail work! Thank you for sharing it’s an inspiration! I had no idea you could use Super Blue with vinyl stencils. It came out great and at some point I’m, when my skills progress, I’m going to have to give it a try as it really adds depth of character to your work. Any thoughts on durability? I’ve 50-60 year old guns whose bluing is perfect, but they are safe queens and we’re commercially done... I’d be curious to see how light wear
  2. I've posted here before, primarily in the gas forge section, but mainly stick to reading through the wealth of information shared on this forum. I have what I would consider a fundamentals question for which I would very much appreciate the input of those more experienced than I. I'm very much still in the infancy of playing around with knife making. Made several knives using a Gough jig and in the process gave myself decent case of trigger thumb. (Probably shouldn't be typing right now without a brace in fact) I very quickly realized that while hand filing a knife can produce some amazi
  3. ^ It’s amazes me just how much just a tiny bit of ambient air movement can impact naturally aspirated burners. From 30’ away I can have my fan running on high at the back of the shop and if it’s even slightly off angle from my forge I have no issues. However, if I happen have a slight breeze come through the rear window in a straight line to the forge I get sputtering until the forge reaches temperature.
  4. Will do! And thank you for pointing me in a direction
  5. Gorgeous work! Was that done in what appears to be the paint can forge on the right in your last picture?
  6. To be clear this is not my first attempt at a knife.... just the first one that has made it to completion There have been three preceding attempts - one in pieces on the shop floor (file knives are a horrible idea for beginners), one in the scrap bin, and one that has been put aside until I have the patience and skills needed to fix my mistakes. The knife is a stock removal job made with Aldo's 1084 steel and sapele scales with a coat of Odies Oil as a finish (several more needed). It is destined for a friend who expressed encouragement and interest in it beyond it just being a first-ish
  7. Templehound, thank you very much for the kinds words and advice!! I very much appreciate your encouragement and I apologize for not responding sooner. I also want to apologize as my writing style can be difficult at times. Thank you for reading through it. You are exactly right in what you stated. I am using the file jig to get comfortable with the geometry involved and am greatly enjoying contemplating the ideas that come from that. When I am able, I best learn by physically doing, and it is a lot easier to correct mistakes when I make them slowly. I do hope to eventually progress beyond
  8. A suggestion for a fix..... If you look in the plumbing section of your local big box hardware store they sell brass termination flanges. I used one as the port/holder for the burner going into my forge. It's a little pricey at about $20.00, but it makes for easy installation. You just have to drill and tap holes for the bolts that use to hold the burner in alignment. .... And don't be embarrassed. I bought all of the nuts and bolts to hold my forge together before I realized that zinc plating is somewhere the opposite of a good idea.
  9. My man! You are missing out as a wood worker! It can be absolutely beautifully figured, easy working wood.... AND working it smells AMAZING! I used to help a couple of folks who did custom milling of urban lumber and was lucky to snag a piece. The only reason I'm not taking the suggestion of using a chunk for rust protection in a cabinet is that the only camphor I have left is part of a project I put on hold. (That being said, if you are creating a ton of dust... dust collection and a respirator would probably be a good idea while working camphor) You know... that's kinda where I am at
  10. Thank you all for the quick suggestions! While I have a slab of camphor it is already dedicated towards a partially completed art project. I never knew camphor in an enclosed space was a rust inhibitor, I just really enjoyed the smell of working with that particular species of wood. While I very much like the idea of VCI bags, the immediacy of the issue and the ease of getting denatured alcohol means I'm going the old skool barber route with a couple of tuperware or glass canisters with reasonably tight lids. Though I am probably going to be getting rust inhibitor bags down the road for a numb
  11. I wish I had the skills to be able to get some benefit from using technical pens in any manner..... but my skills don't lay in that direction. I'm pretty sure my friend Mark also mentioned Prisma pens, but I am so brain fried from listening to lectures this weekend that I can't recall the specifics. In any case, I hope the suggestion bears fruit for you. If nothing else, my understanding of the Sakura's is that they are relatively affordable.
  12. I was just listening to a friend's lecture yesterday on scientific illustration and he mentioned the exact same benefits and issues with radiograph pens for the professional illustration work he does. While he's mostly switched over to digital illustration (Photoshop, etc), he does still occasionally use scans of work that he inks as a base layer in the final digital version. He recommended using Sakura Pigma Micron pens as an alternative to radiograph pens, and is apparently well please with them as an alternative.
  13. Hopefully I put this in the correct sub-forum. I live in NW GA and while we are blessed with 4 actual season, spring and summer can be pretty intense in terms of humidity. My shop is enclosed, but it is not and nor will ever be at the point where I can have climate control. I am somewhat new to treating files as anything more than an occasional use tool and am still learning. (The horror…. I know) I understand about most basic care at this point (carding, chalking, acid bath sharpening) and in particular not storing them stacked or on a wood surface in a humid shop. However, there i
  14. Sometime during quarantine, I got the bright idea to learn how to make knives and thanks for some wonderful advice on this forum I got a very small but functional forge up and running. I also learned from several horrific experiments that I am not yet interested in using a belt grinder to attempt to make stock removal knives. The obvious and well stated reasons apply regarding wood belt sanders. The other reason is that, honestly I would rather learn knife geometry using a tool that is more forgiving, in that I cannot remove too much material in one go. As a result, I did some searching a
  15. Not in the slightest... working with college kids has given me a tougher skin that I used to have. They're not near as brutal as grade school kids but still......dang! Yup, time vs money is an ongoing issue, although I have learned to at least try to re-frame things as "I don't want to spend the money right now" or "I don't want to use the time".....It at least gives me the illusion of having a choice in the matter Directly forging related pics will be forthcoming I promise. Unfortunately, I just don't have a lot evidence of using the forge. I'm horrible at remembering to take photo
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