Fishgod

Thanks Frosty. If you have a gate valve on your air and a needle valve on your gas it seems almost to simple to tune. Just wanted to get some more experienced eyes on it. i have to say with a properly insulated forge it’s amazing how even the heat is in the entire forge. The whole thing glows bright yellow.

A little background. I built my forge last spring following the the info I gathered here along with a lot of helpful input. However internal volume was to large for my single venture burner. So I went to a 1in forced air burner. I have a gate valve on the air supplied from a 2in blower. I also have a needle valve to control gas volume along with a gas shutoff valve. I have my air gate valve set and don’t usually touch it. My startup procedure is as follows. 1. Turn fan on 2. With gas shut off valve and needle valve closed, turn on the tank and adjust the regulator at 4 psi. 3. Light my handy dandy torch 4. Torch in forge, open shut off valve. Start opening needle valve until I see green hints in the flame. Then close the needle valve slightly until I get into a blue flame The forge gets hot, bright yellow/white yellow. For a rookie does that look to be a sound startup procedure? Always open to learning.

Frosty If I can make it I sure want to go.

Frosty, I have not made it to any of the meetings. I did attend one of the classes earlier this year. Would love to get together. I am fully vaccinated for COVID-19. When ever you would like to get together let me know.

I think that nowadays people want the quick answer that will fix all their issues (Easy Button). Being a newbie myself to forging I quickly learned that with forge designs there is no such thing. Last year after finding this site and reading through the treads for Burners 101 and the forges thread I started asking questions. With the help from the members here I know have a forge that is pretty xxxxxxx amazing. I know it is properly insulated and my burner can be turned up enough to melt steel. After a short warm up the entire interior of the forge gets the same color and will heat steel the entire length of the interior of the forge. Following the info here you will end up with a solid performing forge. PS I belong to a few Facebook groups and watch a bunch of YouTube. It is shocking to me what I see posted as fact. With my limited knowledge I know that a good portion of it bunk.

Frosty, I'm not believing youtube and facebook. I see posts/videos and because of this site I say to myself that not right or that's a scary design. I wanted to make sure my limited knowledge was correct from what I have absorbed from this forum.

I know I'm not the sharpest knife in the block but I'm just trying to make sure I understand "Burner, Forge Design, Fuel". I see a ton of what I believe are misconceptions and or flat our wrong statements on the internet. There are a bunch of statements that forced air burners "ribbon or standard" use way less gas as compaired to venturi burners. The only way that would be correct is that the forced air burner is better tuned than the venturi burner. Propane only produces X amount of BTU's per X volume of gas. 1. The forge design and burner have to be thought of as one. So burner A may bring forge A up to working temp but burner A may not do the same thing in forge B. Even though the forges have the same internal volume. 2. Burner A "Venturi with .035 mig tip" properly tuned will produce X btu's for X amount of propane. Burner B "Forced Air with .125 Venturi" properly tuned will produce X btu's for X amount of propane even though it is running at a lower PSI. Wouldn't both burns have to burn the same amount of propane to produce the same BTU's?

Well, I worked on adjusting the position of the jet last night. I moved it back a little at a time. It seems to have made it better but I feel like the flame still has a green hue. I realize now when typing this that without pictures/video there isnt much help that can be given. I have the air intake pointed straight up. I could feel the forge exhaust near the opening. Could the intake of exhaust be compounding the rich flame? I am going to try the theory this evening when it gets dark. I am going to rotate the burner intake down and away from the front of the forge.

Thanks Buzzkill. When it gets darker this evening I will give it a go at adjusting.

Thanks everyone for so much help. I really appreciate all the help. How do I tell if I'm going the right direction. What indicator do I use.? Ahhh, I saw that as well. So I will have to tune it while the forge is relativly cold because it all disappears once it gets hot and I cant see it.

Mike, Thanks for the comment on the forge build. That is thanks to this site (Forges 101). Its a Z Burner from Larry Zoeller. There is a set screw that allows the propane injector to be moved in and out. Was the rich burning coming evidence comming from the dragon breath? Just trying to figure out what clued you into oxygen starvation for future reference.

So if I move the mig tip away from the throat of the mixing tube I should be able to introduce more oxygen correct. I noticed that after warming up a short bit it was orange. Wasn't sure if that was coming from the burner, the kastolite and or plistx.

Well the forge has been lined with Kastolite ( ended up using 7 lbs) then after curing coated with plistix 900. Below is a picture just after lighting. Running 8 psi. The first video is the forge running at 10 psi for about 4-5 min. Looks like the flame is really swilling. The second video is running at 15 psi. I put a piece of 1/8 x 3/4 angle iron in and it heated rather quickly. Just a couple minutes. Lots of dragons breath. Let me know what you think. Forge running for a couple minutes: 8 psi Forge running at 15 PSI

Thanks all. I commited the cardinal sin. I didnt butter the wool so i could only complete about half of the forge. The side walls and floor are covered along with part of the door and pass through. Lesson learned. I did 2.75 ounces per pound. I have the forge in a plastic bag with a wet towell. I wont touch it until Friday. I will hopefully finish off the rest of the forge then. I did get everything welded up tonight. I was quckly reminded that I really dont know how to weld. But hey thats what an angle grinder is for :).

Thanks for giving me the formula and forcing me to figure it out. If I am correct it would look like the below Surface area 7x9 275 x .25 / 19.2 = Pounds of Kastolite Rounded up I come up with 3.6lbs Does that look right?