Grouser

That is the factory recommendation to never block either opening. But I see people do it on other gas forges all the time,,,,,, who's right and who's wrong?? has to be a logical reason or none at all

I'm a newbie myself. I just clayed the bottom of mine the other day. Suggestion,,,do you fire up the forge to set the clay or what? Good score on the forge btw before and after,

just for fun,,,, 1006181359.mp4

ok,,, so is this ducks nest about the right size? Thinking I got the clay to thick and the walls to steep and to narrow at the top,,,, and. how soon can I build a hot fire to set the clay?

I got rid of my homemade grate. I finally understand the wisdom behind the clinker breaker being exposed to the fuel. And now that I see I can buy a new one if I consume my old one I feel good about the new setup. Check out the clay job on this picture. Is the ducks nest to Steep and small should it be larger at the top? Thank you.

good start!!!

i still used the grate,,before I saw all of your very helpful posts, will be removing it later,,, did I do the clay correctly,,, maybe more clay to make it deeper???

Sorry for the lack of details! I assumed everyone was reading my other posts about restoring my newly aquired coal forge,,,,,,silly me!, Its a champion #41 lever operated blower. One member says I don't need a grate at all,,,,the clinker breaker is the grate,,,,,,,getting mixed input on claying the bottom also. Some say do it some say don't,,,,wtf confused.I don't want the breaker to be consumed, so I figured I needed a grate. got it!!! thanks

I haven't had a fire near that tin yet,,,,it surface rust. was going to burn it off either while forging or with a blow torch. thanks for the heads up can you expand? it has a drop thru bottom I'm planning on having a metal bucket under to catch the klinkers. and if never seen one with the clay in place,,,, would like to reference a picture of the find product if you can help. thsnks,

made this grate from a pot bellied stove insert. thinking the holes are wrong,,,your thoughts on how to make it better

Is this what I need for this forge? Does it go at the bottom under any clay bed I install, or on top, set in the clay?

PNW,,,,,, I got the pullies broke loose!!!! Mounting the blower and trying to design a good handle shape for the lever. thanks for the offer to demonstrate your forge. Careful,,,I take long motorcycle rides in the summer....Oklahoma ain't to far,,,,I rode my 1977 Shovel to Florida and back 2 years ago. I will try and post s video shortly. I'm technically challenged.

understanding what we all pay for fuel in our own areas,,,,,,is there a consensus on which fuel cost more to use per forging session,,,, coal verses Propane ,,,here's a picture of my brake drum forge,,,, thinking about building a small propane to compose for myself,,, welcome your comments!!!

bee right there !! lol ,,,,the twin pullies meneed to spin on the shaft and the hub connected to these pullies transmits the power to the big wheel, thru the ratchet system. did that make sense?. I, of course, am just guessing. I'm new to this so you are the experts. a video of yours in action may educate me as to what is needed to get her going. yes there we two leather belts hooked to the pullies. I would love to be wrong and find a simple solution,,, but at this point, it's not gonna work as-is. thsnks for your patience. I'm a visual person,,,any video tutorials you can point me to?

the two pullies that are stuck circled in black,,, where can I find the correct clay you all speak of ? thanks

Hello, Santa brought me a new forge,. I have been using a home made brake drum forge, and it sufficed for the last year. But two forges are better than one, right? Lol As near as I can tell it's a portable rivet, lever operated blower made by Champion. At this point I'm missing the attachment that holds the lever, the cement bottom is gone, and the dual pulley that runs the ratchet drive system is frozen. Currently soaking with BP blaster. Assuming a couple inches of grout will do to cover the bottom of the bowl. One of the arms that grab and spin the flywheel is missing, but I think it will still work if I can get the pullies freed up. Not sure how to route the belts thou. I see similar forges with a half gear dive system, but little info on the style I have. Any help would be appreciated. Looks close to this,,, broken link The ratchet drive has a patent number 316789. If I don't get it in operating condition,,,, the wife is gonna put it in the living room with a plant in it,,,,,HELP lol Happy new year,,,,