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About John3

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    Fort Collins, CO
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, wood carving and wood working, almost anything outdoors, motorcycle touring, family, reading, beer.

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  1. Nay, just heavily screwed (wood screws). There is a 2x4 sub-frame under the box and I routed out the shape of the anvil foot into the top about 1/8 inch and used silicon to keep the anvil in it. I thought maybe the silicone would reduce the ringing some but it doesn't appear to do so. All in all a pretty solid base. If I painted it with high temp paint to help avoid fire issues it could be a keeper.
  2. 75Kg (165 lbs.) Ernst Refflinghaus anvil; purchased new in 2010 (I think). It is the only anvil outside of my instructor's studio I have ever used and I don't remember what he had (several different types). I love this anvil. The rebound is fantastic keeping effort lower and rhythm better. The edges are hard and have held up well to my rookie misses. At first I found the angular heel a bit weird but after a while it was much easier to use those angles instead of trying to angle the piece on the straight edges for certain things. The hardy hole isn't quite an inch as advertised but it is very close. I haven't measured these stats myself and have pulled them from the Shady Grove website where I purchased this anvil. Prices have gone up on these quite a bit since I bought mine. HRC 59 minimum 90% rebound (I believe this one for sure) All steel North German pattern with upsetting block. 1" hardy; 5/8 pritchel holes.
  3. Here's my 75Kg Refflinghaus anvil that I bought from Shady Grove several years ago. It is on what will hopefully be a short term stand made from scrap wood I had lying around. It gets the job done for now.
  4. Hi All, New to the forum today. Today, I wheeled out the tools for working tomorrow. Thus far I have only created my own tools, propane forge, and a few art pieces from mild steel. Tomorrow I plan to attempt my first blade from a piece of leaf spring.