Remmie

Wow, I had been considering a larger tank at the appropriate time, but you just made me think about the logistics of moving it and going or refills. With all my back problems it would be much better for me to stick with the 20# tanks. Thank you for the insight. Sometimes the obvious eludes me so easily, LOL.

The tank is a 10"x20", which I figured would give me a 5"x15" chamber after insulation. Maybe slightly less if I end up building up the floor a little extra. But ya'll have convinced me, I will slice an extra 3" off the length. I am sure the "ring" will come in handy for something. I saw a rig someone was selling to run 2 #20 tanks in tandem. Is this a worth while investment to prevent freezing?

I haven't done quite as well as you, but I bought a Ruger Redhawk 7.5" barrel .44 mag in 1985 for $ 300. It has gained a little value, LOL

Louie, I lived in Suwannee county before I moved to TN. Still have some really good friends there. Stop by Beaver Trucking on Helvenston St. and talk to Mitch Beaver. You can see if he has some old leaf springs from big trucks. normally some fairly decent "mystery steel" Tell him Jack from Red Boiling Springs TN. sent you. Last time I was at his shop he had quite a collection.

If you could post some pictures of the forge that melted and the one you are using now with a description I am sure some of these people will help you with a "what went wrong" critique. And plus it would help rookies like me from making a similar mistake. Seriously, this site seems to have the most knowledgeable people around, and the most willing to share their knowledge. Give it a shot, nothing to lose.

The nearest party store I know of is in Nashville, about 70 miles away. Living in the "sticks"does have some disadvantages but I wouldn't trade it for those advantages. I have deer and turkey walking through the yard, have a 100 yard rifle range and a 25 yd pistol range in the back yard and no zoning regs to worry about. Does make acquiring some things more difficult, but Amazon fills in many blanks. One of the other things about a longer chamber is that I plan on eventually trying some Damascus and I figured the extra depth might be helpful there. Of course I may be on my 2nd or 3rd forge by then. I have been having a ball playing with mild steel and my charcoal forge. So much so that I can see becoming hooked on it. I have read several posts about practicing with cheap iron and Tractor Supply and Ace are close by, about 11 miles. Being disabled and forced to retire I really need something to keep mind and hands busy. Also, I have thought about using my wrap-around and slicing a few inches off the tank, just not sure if it is worth the trouble.

Yeah, I know about only being able to forge about 6", but the air tank is what I have to work with. And everything is a trade off, having more room to heat treat some longer blades is a plus that I have to trade for lower fuel economy. Not the ideal but a compromise. I have checked with 3 different HVAC companies and haven't found one yet willing to give up an empty Freon tank. I plan on building a burner this payday and will post pictures. I think I am going to end up doing that one with the saddle that Mikey posted about. It appears to me that it has infinte adjustment of orifice from the mixing tube, as well as near complete control of the amount of air. If notches were cut in the reducer it could completely close of the air. I think complete control of those two variables should make it as easy to tune as adjusting an oxy-acetylene torch. Notice I only say "should". The only other variables are orifice size and flame nozzle. Also, I was thinking that if I can tune the burners to a very short flame I can avoid flame directly hitting the work piece. For aiming the burners I plan on unscrewing the reducer and setting the mixing tube into the burner fixtures on the forge, marking a 1/3 mark on the floor. Then insert a dowel rod into the mixing tube and see where it hits. Adjust the thumb screws for the proper position and tighten them down, and re-install the reducer. Oh, and I plan on buying some flame nozzles from Zoeller Forges supply. And I really appreciate the info about the flame composition, being a rookie with propane burners that was a major concern for me. I kind of feel like I am getting way side tracked from my original direction and that building different burners could become an addiction ,LOL.

Now ,on to the subject of this thread. I have an air tank that is 10" in diameter, and 20" long. I figure that will give me a 5"x15" chamber after 2 1/2" of insulation on the walls and ends of the shell. I plan to use this mainly as a knife makers forge. Maybe a little long compared to a helium tank, but not too bad. I am unsure if I should go with 2 half inch burners or one 3/4" burner. Eventually I want to do a PID controller. All the schematics I can find for plumbing this rig show 2 needle valves, with one set for 100 degrees below the set point, and a second needle valve set for 100 degrees above the set point. When the temperature drops a solenoid is activated allowing the high temp needle valve to receive more gas and bring the temp up. Several people are reporting plus or minus 4 degrees from the set point. After reading Mikeys book and the entire burners 101 thread and the entire forge thread I still have so many questions. For instance, which burner will tolerate an increase in gas volume with the least negative effect on flame composition? And what is the best way to rig a holder for the thermocouple probe? I know my first gasser will leave a lot to be desired, but an attempt should be made to be as good as possible. I figure the heat control will be a major asset in heat treat. I have been wanting to do some 1095 and eventually D-2, but my 55 charcoal burner is not an ideal heater, and where a magnet is "good enough" for some steels I want to do a little better. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I should have been clearer in the original post. One thing I have learned over the years is to never assume someone knows something, and to never ask how dumb people can be, some seem to take it as a challenge. I should never have "assumed" that someone would think about casting lead without adequate ventilation, although I am sure that there are some people out there who do. And it is better that you made me clarify what I was saying. It may prevent someone from making a serious mistake as far as adequate ventilation.

Agreed. When I cast lead I always make sure I have very good ventilation, even though bullet casting temps are far below where lead becomes a vapor, I just hate a flux that stinks. Also the MSDS sheets on straight Alox don't show it as being toxic under x number of PPM. I think you would need to close all doors and windows to reach that, and anyone running a forge is SUPPOSED to be aware of CO and insure adequate ventilation. I would need to dig out the MSDS sheets to give exact numbers. Basically all I was saying was that the coating may smoke a little and smell, but should otherwise be harmless in a shop ventilated well enough to vent CO.

Ziebart is actually a mix of liquid alox sprayed on as a rust proofing. I use it often for a lube additive for cast lead bullets. I have actually thrown old bullets coated with it back in the casting pot where the hydrocarbons actually act like a flux. I wouldn't stand over the pot inhaling it, but overall not to noxious smelling when hot.

Well designed for skinning. I agree with the handle set back. The way you are holding it in the next to the last picture is the same way I like to be able to grip a knife for skinning. I like it. Very nice work.

Wow, I need to check here for replies more often! I have been wrapped up reading and re-reading burners 101 and parts of forges 101 that I haven't thought about this. PVF Al, I wish I had known about that Athens meeting sooner, I could have made plans and been there. More opportunities will come along. And Tubalcain 2, now I need to pull out my Atlas and find SantaFe, TN. And I wish to thank all for the warm welcome.

Just wanted to introduce myself and say hello. I have been lurking for a month or two and reading a lot. I still don't think I have scratched the surface yet, so much information. As a former industrial maintenance mechanic a certified weld I have some knowledge of metal and metal working, just not in the forging line of work. I am living in Red Boiling Springs TN am would really like to visit with any blacksmiths or knife makers in the area and learn anything I can. I will try not to ask stupid questions, but sometimes I have trouble finding exactly what I want to know. The knowledge here is so vast it is hard to take it all in. Anyhow, thanks to all the great people here who share their knowledge. Thanks.