Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

"Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." - Archimedes

c.baum... when it was said I'd love to see it referred to a photo. I also would love to see it.

49 minutes ago, Everything Mac said:

The issue is however the old you can take a horse to water but you can't make him drink.

Along with you can lead people to knowledge but you can't make them think.

I would lower the hood as a start, then larger flue pipe if that didn't do the job.

I knew that, but you brought it to our attention as regarding smithing.

"Go not to the elves for counsel, for they will say both yes and no."   JHCC

The best molasses (unsulphered) to use is from the feed store (not grocery store). I have used it on old antique muzzleloaders a mixture of 7 parts water to 1 molasses.

You mentioned anvils in your area are expensive. Where in the world would that be?

If you go to your profile and add your general location you may be surprised how many of the gang are near you and a lot of answers are location dependent.

I would say that if that anvil has a steel face it would be a small step above a small RR track.

13 minutes ago, blacksmith-450 said:

I will let it dry another day or 2 and then I cover with Metrikote.

Pretty sure you will want to fire up the forge to cure the Kast-O-Lite prior to the Metrikote.

For that price you could buy a portable sand blaster and bag of sand. I have one by Campbell Haustead and it works well also have seen them at HF.

2 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

As to my spelling, even I can't read what I write sometimes.

Charles, I have no problem reading what you write. My eye's see the incorrect word and instantly my mind translates it to the word you mean.

Looks like clay cut with a wire to me.

2 hours ago, Michael Cochran said:

I might finally get myself out of this box in stuck in.

The best way to think outside the box, is don't get into one in the first place.

1 hour ago, (M) said:

i'm a beginner too gr8 thread!

Welcome to the addiction. If you will go to your profile and put in your general location, you may be surprised how many of the gang are close to you. A lot of answers are dependent upon where in the world you are located...

Stay hydrated my friend.

Can't tell from the picture but it looks like that chip is not that bad and I would draw file the cutting edge to get it out.

I have a pair like those and have sharpened them without any problems.

3 hours ago, JHCC said:

appear to have been painted with what I suspect (given the original 1908 construction date) was lead paint.

From my experience while in the USCG stationed on lighthouses it looks like red lead primer to me. When we had to remove it for repainting we used a chipping hammer and hand wire brush. Some of that paint was a half inch thick on the stations that were built in the 1800s. I would try that first wearing a dust mask. What little that is left probably would not create a problem to be burned off in an open fire.

I found what helps my stitching for sheaths and holsters is to use a stitching pony. Easy to use and simple to make one.

If you are going to soak it again, use cleaning vinegar which is 6% acidity instead of the 5% common vinegar. Better to be safe than sorry.

BTW welcome to the forum. If you put your location in your profile you may be surprised how many of the gang are near you and some answers depend upon location.

25 minutes ago, Frosty said:

I'll have to ask the voices.

Even if the voices aren't real, they have some pretty good ideas.

Exactly as Frosty describes and fire management was the first thing Ike Doss taught me how to properly do. Here is the thread Glen put up on fire management.

38 minutes ago, Kenny gibbs said:

It's still summer time in Kentucky, I did try annealing the blade and to no avail still could not drill the tang. I think you are right about the heat conduction did not think about that, 

Hi Kenny welcome to the forum... If you go to your profile and put in your location you may be surprised how many of the gang (including bladesmith's) are near you and willing to help. In about ten min we will have forgotten this post.

Between yesterday and today, I got to use our new propane forge for actual work. Made a Sargent's musket tool. Roughed it in yesterday and finished it today. Hardened and heat treated it made from a cutoff lawnmower blade.

Wish I could take credit for the spats. A life member of our club BOA (Blacksmith Organization of Arkansas) Mark Morrow introduced them to us.

At a little over $2 a pound and considering the condition I would say ya done very good. Can't help with the dating but our experts will be along shortly for that.

The way to solve the leather shoe problem is to make a pair of tie on leather spats. That way he can wear the shoes that are most comfortable but still no flip flops.

Never thought of that. I added a link to this thread for when it slips into the nether land in case someone wants to read it.

Thanks