JamesJimiyG

1) I squeaked by in English, and didn't learn grammar or anything in school, so its a constant effort as an adult to not be an idiot. Had you said nothing I would have carried on thinking its all good. 2) I quit janitor work last year because I could go it alone. Since all my savings and livelihood went into my forge last few years. The earth made a move in my favour. I get this opportunity to work a ideal job at a forge down the road, doing historical period reproductions. 3) You gotta get instagram! it can be used solely for blacksmiths, or deep sea diving doesn't matter you decide.

I read through the thread. I wanted to show up in a Ferrari but now I understand to roll up with a Tesla, double the trunk space. You feel me? This cost analysis is something I am interested in working on and has been something I put thought towards but having read Intelligent Investor, and Capital, Mastery. That is what I want to do and will try to publicize it by knowing it is solid and a potential utility. I also saw the fancy 400 lb anvil idea, and yeah once you do that you are working for the anvil instead of what ever other reason, its good that mine was an aesthetic choice, and meant a long term goal to be realized through its use. Started with asset capital then took on debt capital, building on assets that also pay 'dividends' in the form of refunds in tax season. The Infrastructure built early on will in essence have no value later on and can be seen as a net loss, right away. Since I am able to use it now; it is an asset, but because when my work outgrows this forge, it also will be symbolic for massive expense, larger undertaking and a knowledge of my own success. I will note more about capital specifically. I guess later on, with inflection on these bits. Thank you all for your personal story of the machine shop and expertise. I guess Debt is so far the most costly capital, and unless you can make it return beyond the interest then it is a stunt in growing the business. Best example would be - buying a fly-press, and having it take half a year to get the tooling. The next idea would be a year from now just having saved, looking at getting skids loaded with 4 fly press' each, I believe viability of your asset capital (exaggerated) is application. 'Anvils' don't really apply to making money when you already have one anvil unless there is more than one of you.. here a tool that makes a calculated repeatable process'; when considered well enough, has no cost of maintenance, holds its value and is a physical representation of mechanical work. See what this imaginary scenario is, this is what I think matters. I care not to include any depth of these fantastic goals unless prompted. lol I am Demiurge smithy on instagram

Howdy, you would not mind conversing about books for the sake of it. I tried a half dozen books before finding what ~.I.~ *NEED*. I buy books, I collect them, and have no problem spending any amount on books; I have many, because I found my passion for reading and higher learning later in my youth. -I attended HSAD 4 month 'intensive' they recommended only one, New edge of the anvil. The reference material in the back of that book is concentrated and useful. This book is brutally slow for content to the size of the book and it won't advance you without * application of the knowledge within * hold that thought. Japanese Swords books, (the handle wrapping, the craft book) and there was no greater waste of effort than the money spent on sword making anything. Fellow student had been applying himself immensely within and without the forge and with a passion he purchased the two books "machine shop from scrap metal", "Modern Blacksmith" I was drawn to the later, I purchased it after school had ended. Buy The Smithy's Craft & Tools (Werk und Werkzeug des Kunstschmieds) (German Edition) What you need is the Mark Aspery books, Don't pussyfoot around this*. The only set of books that matter anything else should come after and or is peripheral to these quintessential guidance and work books. No books have value that they deserve without knowing and studying these texts. You are trying to re-invent the wheel or create a new form of physics by interpreting books of blacksmithing without first reading Mark's works. He is showing you the words that explain everything else. As far as advice I'm entering 3 years deep, an employed blacksmith and now collecting commissions up to $1000 ea. Skip over the BS, corner-cutting, take it seriously skip the anvil track and scrap metal. Buy the forge, get the coal. Buy the anvil, go to the metal supplier and buy one or half of everything hot rolled. Buy tool steel offcuts, get 1045, and 4140, 3/4" and 1" get anvil that has a 1" hardy because over 1-1/4" hardy tools are death for your body to hand forge. The rounding hammer, from one of the guys making them, will help you make cleaner forgings out the gate. Brian Brazeal is super relevant and avoiding the craft by not looking at the real tools it requires seems like a handicap. Don't injure yourself. This process is going to be worth it, everything you buy blacksmithing related is an asset that does not depreciate in value at the same rate of most capital. The forge and the Crucible by Mircea Eliade, no one ever mentions but its a book that maps out mans discourse in metal before history began it will help incite love for the blacksmith-artist. Im Demiurge Smithy on instagram.

Opposite problem here I have approximately a 50 gallon drum full of sheet offcuts all sizes from strips to 12x12 squares. I need it organized is there a convenient way to keep this stuff all sorted out?

It's improbable but I've went ahead, bought a few guide books into the Minoan culture see if I can compare these artistic forms to the metal. I've also been considering asking the guys that sold it.

I clicked onto a GS tongs video where he's showing drifts of air hardening steel he took round and ground it, machined it too. I've got a pile of 4140 stock that I intend to become top tools a drift could work. 1215 isn't any use in our forging tools right? I have that stuff in 1.25" round So I see there are also two very sizeable pieces of mystery steel in my shop that I know is alloy or tool steel, so the trick will be to cut it hardness test these, and all that, their written markings would need an experienced metal worker to identify. Have a look at the writing the green one by the colours could be 316, or 303, gold could be A2, gold white is H13. what do you make of the alien language wrote on them?

I didn't say specifically fly press either. I was hoping for feedback on the use of 1" round S7 and W1. hand chisels yeah, handled struck tools much better. I figured out on my own what to do already for gosh sakes why can't I get a suggestion for the steels proper use. I have plenty of 1/2" W1 and down to 3/16ths, good for engraving chisels, good for cold work and others, you can forge W1. S7 do you take it and grind the tool face onto one side since it's so hard is there a tool that comes readily into form out of S7 taking into consideration how rigid it is. I figured a press drift since it could be loosely set in the ram driven down and would be easily taken from the press to anvil possibly? Is this a thing worth trying? Now please point out the fact it's S7 Could S7 be used for Dies? What with latest article by Mr Latane in the hammers blow. I had hoped the mystery would yield a different response, rife with information and ideas. Thanks anyway enjoyed reading what you've added.

Since this is a lot about bases, any tips for a poured concrete base? My shops small and we don't have a welder. My No.5 press. Make a template of the base for proper threaded bolt placement in the concrete. any tips for concrete base?

Okay you found holes in my story, they sold it as S7, it's most likely not 17-4ph, if it is W1 you can't easily get 1" rounds. That would mean it's worth it. S7 find anyone selling one for anything, 30 Canadian paso not t bad Let us assume it is s7 I HAVE A FLY PRESS i need to have a 1" round section perfect to go up in the ram, would a press driven drift or something be a good use of the steel? I guess I could cut lengths and make s7machinist hammers

I wound up buying a offcut without proper labelling the tail end had a little white which means to the colour code possible S7, W1, 17-4ph the hints I can give: its precision ground, 1" round and has no rust. I paid for it like it's s7 so it was 30$ for about 10" all three are useful for tools, when i am forging that, I'll know if it's W1 if it doesn't air harden. Like 17-4ph and S7 should it become air hardening, S7 is impact resistant and 17-4 ph is not the best as a hotforging tool. Should I start in the direction of a struck top tool, a large drift, or chasing tools. What other directions could I choose with this to get effective usage tool. I also invite any input/suggestions for tools made with any of these metals @1" round. Afterthought - I'm starting to think it's not S7 because of the precision ground/rustfree surface. Maybe it is W1 what is a good tool in the event of it being W1. (tool forum post because it is a mystery steel destined to become a tool, how good a tool we will know sooner than later)

Dearest Frank, On the material; I searched Frank, I have been fortunate to have the O1 for these tools; my intention, imagine I'm elated by the Physical copy of hammers blow 25 is to use any information to make my own set. Thirteen months as a blacksmith I am going to make these tools. From what I accrued, (2 lengths 5-1/4"x1") (3 lengths 4-3/16"x7/8")(11 lengths 4-1/2"x3/4") O1 I Looked at tools from pieh, they were 4.5" long. The plan is use: Tom Latane's tool shapes, Taper both sides toward robust center, I find them to be appealing. The issue and stopping point; I'm at, is what size I will be able to create. I could rephrase this many ways but it comes down to correctly using these materia. I have made many things as learning pieces and they haven't been perfect but I will pour over these tools for may be the rest of my life and wish they would be effective from the get go, tonight I will take these lengths of O1 away from their parents. The problem I found is that information on the internet is dense with copper repousse and is it reliable for the creation of steel repousse/chasing application? Adolf Steins Moving metal I don't know, should I wait to get this before making my tools or will the book be a utility to the point of creating tools. Lastly I reiterate to anybody, see the three parent width round, what sizes and shapes would be best; for example, the largest keep them large, and taper the tips of the 3/4 own to 1/4. Then my tools may end up to long, should I adjust the lengths before cutting them depending on how far they will get tapered. My websites thewaveoftime.com theres my shop, and my stuff, I plan to add more to it. I'm glad to join a community on the same plane, with excitement & enthusiasm for the craft, thank you. James Alexander Cole Groomes