Gorō

5 hours ago, John in Oly, WA said:

It's this type - https://plus.google.com/photos/117030057799529631445/albums/5451920122058541745

I'm just halfway through with them. I have the lower hex shaped jaw finished. Need to get time to make the upper jaw and finish them.

Nice bolt tongs John!

46 minutes ago, Ridgewayforge said:

Why complicate it? If you take them, cut them at the bend, then you now have 4 anvils of good size, shape and material .

 

Welding them up is a sure way to take an effective tool and ruin it. la

I think the reason why he wants to weld them up is for the extra weight and mass.....I personally would use it as a striking anvil or mount it on a stand and use it for knife and blades.

5 minutes ago, JHCC said:

The search function on the forum software isn't great. A better option is to do a google search and include "iforgeiron" as a search term.

Thanks, Just did a google search with these fields "iforgeiron+tempering oil tube" and this came up

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/46232-tempering-swords/

7 hours ago, RogueGeek said:

 

Im hopeless at anything electrical. Ive been told PID controller, power supply, thermometer and heating elements etc pretty much the electrical side would cost in excess of $1500 AUD

7 hours ago, Daswulf said:

Ok. Almost looks to me like the pivot bolt isn't seated properly. Usually the rounded head part of the bolt seats into a notch or two to the bracket. I think I see a space and also the nut looks to have been replaced, as far as I've seen they are a square nut there. No big deal on the nut really.

But what about the screw? Ask him to wind out the handle till it comes out and get good pictures of the threads.   that's the make or break item.  

I asked for pictures of the screw this morning when I called him up and he was very firm on the screw being "fine"

I think I will message him tomorrow morning asking if he could take one more picture for me haha  

is $95 plus another $45 for shipping a fair price to pay? that is in Australian dollars, how much are leg vises worth in the US of A???

On ‎4‎/‎09‎/‎2016 at 0:42 PM, Hammerdom said:

Incredible that such an old blade could be recovered in such pristine condition.

I think because the sword of Goujian was made during the bronze age that's one of the attributing factors to why its still been preserved until this day

The sword of Ulfbert was rusted to bits when they recovered it!

14 hours ago, Daswulf said:

I was going to make an assumption about terminology, but without the link it would be just that. Tho, I've never heard of anyone tempering in oil. Quenching yes.  But I'm no bladesmith. 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BKiLAiB8t0o

I'm no where near being a bladesmith. The YouTube video pretty much shows the guy getting a long steel pipe and weld a plate at the bottom and filling it with oil with a propane torch at the bottom heating it whilst the blade is clamped to he top of the pipe with a thermometer to measure the temperature.

A buddy of mine has recently built a long electric tempering oven and he loves it to bits and says it's the best method of tempering swords but I can justify spending $2000+ to make one. I've read on the internet different methods of tempering from running the blade on a bed of charcoal to using an oxy torch but this one seems like the most easiest, just abit of welding and away you go.

Ive built myself a 800mm gas forge with 3 Venturi burners to compliment my smaller gas forge for heat treating. But I'm not too keen on building an electric tempering oven.

9 hours ago, Steve Sells said:

If you read in the knife making section, you will notice this was mentioned, including how close the tempering temperature is to the flash point of many oils, salts are much safer.   I will relocate this thread to the knife HT section.

I apologise Steve, I guess I didn't read everything in the knifemaking section. I have trouble using the search function. I did try and put in the search fields "oil tempering"

8 hours ago, JHCC said:

As Steve Sells notes, a lot of things in YouTube videos have been discussed here already (and many of them dismissed as idiotic, hazardous, or both). As a general rule, if you see something that interests you elsewhere (YouTube or some other forum), see if there's an existing discussion here that you can join. You may find your question has already been answered already; you will certainly be in a better position to ask informed questions (and thus run less risk of annoying the curmudgeons).

Yeah I realise not everything on YouTube can be taken seriously but I thought I would raise the question here first.

9 hours ago, Michael Cochran said:

I've heard of oil tempering but haven't tried it yet. The one example of it being done that I've seen didn't show how the oil was heated I was just assuming a torch of some sort. I'm glad you posted this because I'm just starting the research to build a small one myself. 

Do you have a link of that one example Michael?

Found this on YouTube 

what do you guys think? From what I understand you get pipe and fill it with oil then heat it with a torch.

Here are some more close up pictures of the vise

I spoke to the gentleman selling the vise, He said everything is in good condition.....he said maybe the spring has lost tension. Ive asked him for some more pictures

Supposed to call the fellow today about the leg vise... will ask for close up pictures of the screw/bolt

Didn't want to call him yesterday because it was a sunday in Australia

Yep I get it now your using a spritzer for the rigidizer. Still abit early here in Australia.....need my cup of coffee....

Tried searching on google what a spritzer is and all I see is beverage bottles

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritzer

Saw this on the internet

Band saw, files and draw knife.

On 08/10/2016 at 2:16 AM, Latticino said:

Just like any other, more conventional, type of hammer a weight forward hammer can be used for any number of operations, depending on your skill level, its size, weight, face configuration...  The one pictured appears to have a pretty aggressive rounded face and should be great for moving material.  I've seen weight forward hammers well up to 10 LBS of head weight that were used for anything from striking to solo slitting and drifting of hammer eyes.  Of course with a more flattened face they also do very well at final clean up of a beveled knife edge.

Nice hammer, going to have to put that on my list to copy.  The one weight forward hammer I made to date has a face that is more optimized for finish work.

So a rounded face better for moving material whilst a flat face is for bevelling?

Ive been told with hammer faces that I need to dress the edges so it doesn't make dints and mar up the workpiece 

cheers

Yeah it can be done. It's been done to make the internal diameter smaller. There's a special "glue" that is used to bond the kaowool to the shell which can be used to bond the kaowool to the kaowool.

Biggest problem that I'm buying this online because the vise is in another state. 

If it was local I could have a better look at it. Maybe take it apart if I'm allowed to .

2 hours ago, TwistedCustoms said:

First up is a 12lb Plumb, aka "the persuader". Next is a 4lb Kelly Tru-Temper. Next is a 4lb 6oz rounding hammer struck by me and made by Lyle Wynn. This is the hammer I use the most by far. Next is a 2lb 2oz rounding hammer struck by me and made by one of Lyles students at the "Tools to make Tools with" course he teaches. Next is a 1000g Peddinghaus Swedish pattern. Very nice hammer for the money. Just a little doming on the face and easing the cross peen and it was good to go. The handle is fatter than I like but it was good straight grain hickory so I scraped the varnish off, oiled it and put it to work. I may end up slabbing the sides but with minimal mods it's a keeper.Next up, a couple of Craftsman ball-peens. One is 24oz, the other 8oz. I actually use the 8oz more than you would think. Its great for peening small digits and the tiny ball produces a nice texture on small hooks and widgets. Last is a pair of unknown origins. The drilling hammer is mostly used for tapping on spring swages and punching but I did dome one face on the off chance it's ever the only one within easy reach and I don't want to loose a heat. The cross peen has no makers mark but is stamped 1000, presumably the weight in grams. It is of better quality steel than the drilling hammer and does see a little action from time to time. That is nowhere close to all of them ( I do have a bit of a hammer addiction) but those are the most frequently used.

Nice collection of hammers there

Ive got a 4.4 rounding hammer made by Lyle Wynn and Stan Bryant as well

5 hours ago, John in Oly, WA said:

Looks like you got some good advice and direction on finding a set of tongs.

Me, I'm bucking the general advice and making my own. First project since getting my forge tuned and dialed in. I figured it'd be an good lesson in moving the metal in a variety of ways. I chose the Brazeal Ultimate tongs - looked like a great general purpose set. I have one jaw made, now if I can get my belt grinder project finished and get time to fire the forge back up, I'll get the other jaw shaped out.

Hey John, so you made the brazeal style hammer tongs?

Ive commissioned someone to make them for me. But I want to attempt making a set myself

3 hours ago, Daswulf said:

I only mention checking the screw for wear to see if the vise is worth buying, not as a cause for it sticking.  

What are some reasons for the jaws sticking??

Oh ok so we need a close up of the threaded screw area of the vise?

I'm thinking dog head, cross pein and a smaller rounding hammer.

hopefully sometime this month I'll get some downtime to start forging.

Oh ok cool the hammer is still in good condition over the past few decades, it's had a hard life.

3 hours ago, jeremy k said:

Most likely just needs a simple to make spring. Hard to tell without a photo.

Always forget the photos sorry.These are the only photos that I have of the blacksmith leg vise, hope it helps.