Beatsy' s Forge

Nick The stock I have is about 3.5x 10in so it would need to be cut and I have about 70 lbs. Of 1to2inx3.5 slices I have no idea what to do with. So for the hammer you said for 3in oil for less than 3 brine ? I was thinking a hammer about 5in from end to end this should be oil quench? Thanks again Martin

Nick I am unsure if the guy forged the hammers but reading it it sounded like he forged it and quenched in oil . Big It is a screw steel. I am not sure what you mean by that can you explain? I got the steel from a place near me that presses auto parts using this stuff . If I were to make it into a hammer by say stock removal would it be a better way to get something decent to use? Is this load of steel useless to a smith and should I scrap yard It? Thanks for the reply . Martin

This is what I have found on the steel. The sulfur but I have also read a few articles that someone has made a few hammers from it and he said it worked ok .But anyone that can give some assistance in this it would be greatly appreciated. THANKS IN ADVANCE.

Nick you are more than welcome to travel for a piece. Thank for the reply though. When heating on a count of the magazine is there anything to worry about?

I have just acquired quite a bit of 1141 and one piece is large enough to make 2 Mabe 3 hammers . I have searched for info on the steel and found it is low in carbon .It is higher in sulfur and has a good wear resistance. I am wondering if anyone has used it for hammers or other tooling , If so I have more than I need and would be willing to give some up if anyone has an interest.Oh the place I got it from makes auto parts of different types and this is one type of steel the use.And I also read it may be a stainless? Thanks, Martin

Thanks guys This is what I was thinking, thedrawings are just an idea. I was considering using them as is or even more than one as is . Charles, Frosty this is as noted above I suppose I will be mounting them individually to see which suits me best. Frosty, Your mentioned the fork being in the 4140 range other than that I done some research on the bucket pins and was under the impression they were also 4140 range. The CAT guy I got them from didn't know the type. The inter web basically said 4140 . As far as I was thinking it would need a good tinsel strength and have a reliable flex or I wouldn't want to be working under that bucket, you know. What am I thinking your a retired operating engineer aren't you ? So is it 4140 or just a carbon?

Charles Thanks for the replyand yes I do have access to a large welder and I am able to preheat, post heat, and HT.I am trying to figure out a good way to utilize the materials I have . Another posts suggested to use all and mount them for use at a comfortable working height. I am considering that route, I was trying to see if someone may be able to offer something different though. The other thing is should some of the material be used in a different fashion like hammers or other tools?Ultimately I would like to use it in a manner that is not wasting good materials on something not nessasarry for the build. Thanks, Martin

I have acquired some materials that would be suitable for a ASO build. I have two sections of forklift fork, two CAT excavator bucket pins, a piece of hydrolic rod,and a hunk of RR rail.I am interested in building my first ASO and am hoping to get some guidance. I am including a few pics of the material and a sketch of a couple ideas but aside of that I have never tried to build an anvil so someone who has or has a good plan on how to use the materials I have please contact me for your help. So if anyone sees a better way your help is appreciated. Thanks, Martin

Ben thanks for the support and yes I plan on using it on end but I would like to weld the two pieces together but I need to do a little more research on it due to the fact that it would be nice to have a surface that is a little wider audience and still as hard so I need to see if welding will cause me to have to HT and temper . We will see what I come up with. Thanks, Martin

Thomas Powers the forks are new and if it matters from united rental I can only assume that it is 4140 this is what I have found out on line but it was also stated that it was 4140 of comparable steel so whatever that ment I don't know. You mentioned tri state were is it ?is it this year in southern Ohio? This is what I had found. Excuse the dumb questions but as I previously stated I am a newbie who just today got my hands on something that I can use for a stump anvil. I have a section of rail but I don't like it.You mentioned hammer steel I am guessing this would be sufficient for hammers. And just out of curiosity did you have a response to the other parts to ask for and I have a solid piece from the lifting mast of a fork lift from the lifting cylinder. Any idea

Does anyone know what type of steel that forklift fork steel is made from? I have done some research on the subject and found that it is made from 4140 or similar. Can the forks be welded without messing with the integrity of the steel? The other thing is should I get as much as I can ? Will the make good hot cut tools or other tools ? I have decided that I would make a stump anvil from a piece and have access to a bunch more. I realize I have lots of stupid questions but I am just a newbie and would like some advice on the topic. The other steels I can get are hydraulic shafts that I am also wondering what they are made steel they are made of the only thing I know so far is it is a hardened steel other than that I don't know. And should this be something that I should be collecting also if there is anything else I should be looking for and your help with the above questions is appreciated. Thanks, Martin

I have quite a few shops around me I will give it a try thanks for the advice. Thanks for the reply I will look into it.

I mentioned anvil in the London patern. Not literally not needing an anvil in general I have been exploring other options. I have a RR track currently just simply don't like it. So I have found a few places to find large pieces of steel, as far as what to look for I was thinking heavy equipment forks, bucket pins, axle or should I be looking at other heavy equipment options? I was thinking these might suit me better.the reason for not caring for the RR is a preference thing or more than likely my piece is just not flat enough for me. Either way thank for the ridicul it is welcome and suitable for the stupidity of the topic. So thanks for the pointers,advice, knowledge and everything else that was given.I am looking tomorrow if something is found it will be posted . Thanks

Thanks for the replys in regards to the type of work I will be doing is anything I can learn by hand so knives, artistic, wind chimes, dinner bell ect. So pretty much anything not real heavy. As far as heavy equipment rental. I didn't think of that I will have to check it out for a stump anvil I could see something like that work just fine . So thanks for the reply. I realize that an anvil is not necessary for forging ,i.e I was just trying to get something to help me and at the same time help someone else Wether it be trade for coal,fire brick,castables or any other refractory material I have an abundance of. I was hoping someone that is established in Blacksmithing and has a few anvils or even other tools laying around not in use that thewould be willing to help someone who is just getting started. Either way, thanks for the advice I will have to explore some of the rentals near me.

Frosty, Have you ever used any product from vesuvius called stick tight it is a mix of K-Wool and fire clay. I used the stuff to insulate and fill holes in refractory at US steel for a couple of applications it worked great .The only thing about it is after it drys it cracks,I wonder now if it were mixed with a stronger binder if it would hold up better and perhaps be used in a lining application. Also I use to work with some light weight gunnite that was nice,and they also make a pump able version of K wool and fire clay it comes premixed in 5 gal buckets it was at the time called pump able. Also do you use stainless needles to keep the castable held together? We used them when we grouped up takes at the Electric Furnace at the AK steel plant in Dearborn, Michigan. And rather than regular hard firebrick has anyone used black brick for a forge? I haven't seen it yet but we used these for the hot linings or working linings in furnace, vessel, steel laddel and other applications only sometimes did we spry gunnite on it and that was when the molten steel/Iron would have to sit in a laddel or tread well and a few other applications but funny as it may seem we never put gunnite /shot create on the working lining of a blast furnace or vessel only erythromycin long black brick with a hard yellow brick backer and we're the yellow brick had a void between the brick and the shell we filled it with dry pack castable or ram . Frosty Yes K wool is in deed Kaowool, this is what we called it at work. Anyway stick tight is essentially ground Kaowool and fire mix it is a patch but I suspect it may work as well or better than Kaowool byitself.the other thing I am curious about is we used stainless steel needles is shot create and grouting and several other applications If you were to use a castable for the working lining of a forge no matter if it is coal or propane would hold the refractory from cracking as easy. I have castable but haven't used it yet for a forge. My idea is to use 2 in. of blanket about 4 in. of castable for the working lining. The only thing is I don't know how reflective the materials are if I would need to coat it with something on top of the castable. Martin

I have access to a large amount of good lump coal. I am willing to trade as much that is needed to trade for an anvil. No ASO please ,If you are interested contact me.

Frozen forge I will get pictures tomorrow .Let me ask you what would you pay if it is prior the time when PW made changes to there anvil to compensate for saddling. I am not a professional at this but to me and the references I have seen regarding this type of anvil. This one is in almost perfect shape. The other thing is if the anvil was made after the modifications to the horn and such which version is worth more to a smith? I am not particularly wanting to pay 3.00 a lb, isn't that like retail prices?either way let's get some pictures and perhaps I can get a little more info.By the way aren't PW a great or decent anvil for a first anvil? I also have an opportunity to get a Fisher #300 for 600.00 is this a good deal? Yes , I don't have an auto correct on what I'm using. I guess if I can get it than just do it.

Frosty, Have you ever used any product from vesuvius called stick tight it is a mix of K-Wool and fire clay. I used the stuff to insulate and fill holes in refractory at US steel for a couple of applications it worked great .The only thing about it is after it drys it cracks,I wonder now if it were mixed with a stronger binder if it would hold up better and perhaps be used in a lining application. Also I use to work with some light weight gunnite that was nice,and they also make a pump able version of K wool and fire clay it comes premixed in 5 gal buckets it was at the time called pump able. Also do you use stainless needles to keep the castable held together? We used them when we grouped up takes at the Electric Furnace at the AK steel plant in Dearborn, Michigan. And rather than regular hard firebrick has anyone used black brick for a forge? I haven't seen it yet but we used these for the hot linings or working linings in furnace, vessel, steel laddel and other applications only sometimes did we spry gunnite on it and that was when the molten steel/Iron would have to sit in a laddel or tread well and a few other applications but funny as it may seem we never put gunnite /shot create on the working lining of a blast furnace or vessel only erythromycin long black brick with a hard yellow brick backer and we're the yellow brick had a void between the brick and the shell we filled it with dry pack castable or ram .

Frozen forge I will get pictures tomorrow .Let me ask you what would you pay if it is prior the time when PW made changes to there anvil to compensate for saddling. I am not a professional at this but to me and the references I have seen regarding this type of anvil. This one is in almost perfect shape. The other thing is if the anvil was made after the modifications to the horn and such which version is worth more to a smith? I am not particularly wanting to pay 3.00 a lb, isn't that like retail prices?either way let's get some pictures and perhaps I can get a little more info.By the way aren't PW a great or decent anvil for a first anvil? I also have an opportunity to get a Fisher #300 for 600.00 is this a good deal?

Oh and sorry no pictures are available at this time.But I can read the stamp that says the name and those set of numbers in regards to the weight.

Does anyone know how to find out how old and be able to put a purchase price on a PW anvil. The anvil has minor chipping on the table which is to be expected. The horn is perfect,The table is also as flat as when it rolled out of the plant. I am not sure what size the hearty is and it has a pectoral hole. The numbers thar are visible are the weight which is I believe 140lbs. The number is 1-0-25 if I am incorrect about the weight being 140lb please let me know what is the proper weight. The date is not visible that I could find it could be used derived a thin layer of paint. If the date are on these anvils and I didn't see it were is usually location? The only other numbers on it are under the horn on the visible side of the bottom of the feet are a number 7 one on each foot. Other than that nothing I can find. I have already done some searching on the stickys but I think my question is a little to specific for the search. So if there is anyone that can help please do so .Also the only other information I can give is it has two sets of I think they are called handle holes which are under the horn on the body and under the table on the body.these holes are also seen between the feet in the same location as the holes on the body. I'm not sure if this will help with age .Or help me make a fair offer for it either. The other thing is the step shows wear it looks to be saddled or dented in is what I would say either way please give me a hand in getting an approximate age and be able to give this guy an honest price. Thanks

Thanks guys,and yes Frosty the measurements are there and the table is to high,to solve the issue with the stock the whole table appears flat all the way around the fire pot I would have reseed the pot my best a half brick and all the way across the tables width .that would solve the placement issues, as far as the depth and width I would start with 10inx12x3.75indeep with the sides sloping to the clinker/other.Ithink that may work a little bit better. I'm still collecting the brick and slowed my roll a little to investigate and plan a bit more .Frosty is right on perfect placement if there is such a thing but permanent forge is definitely in your future. Thanks for the pictures Bayshore no need for measuring got it in the pic Thank you all for the help in making a decision and a future dream possible. Now with more planning it will happen someday in my future.

Thanks Frosty I will be messing around with it today if will post updates.

Yeah I will probably use a castable table cause that's what I have available or try and find a piece of .5 in plate for it but if I want to get started castable will be faster than the search for a plate and besides the castable is free. So I have to make a decision.