Beatsy' s Forge

Buzzkill This is precisely my thoughts, Thanks for the incouragment Beatsy

This is precisely why I am asking. I am hoping to use whar I have, but in the end if it is not perfect and need the correct parts. Well then so be it but it doesn't hurt to ask. My end goal is to have a great burner and if I need to use the exact parts as listed then thats fine too. Just another trip to the store lol... Thanks, Beatsy

Buzzkill Yes that helps I was only asking on account I have 1 in all the way around . Just picked up some 3/4 pipe and a 1in to 3/4 reducer. So now I have to ask if the reducer will be a problem. The local hardware didnt have a 1 to 3/4 T . The only thing im wondering is would i need to put the tip a little further into the T on account im adding a say 1/4 in to the T . Thanks for the reply I've been waiting for some help Buy the way if anyone has seen Frosty please ask him to check his email here a IFI for some forge build questions I have . I ask for him due tp the fact that I'm centering my buld around his burner. Thanks for your help, Beatsy

I am wanting to buid a Frosty burner and was wondering if 1 in pipe could be used in place of the 3/4?

Hey Frosty, Got a couple questions regarding your T burner.1 Can I use 1 in pipe threw out? 2 Can I use a smaller mig tip for consumption reasons or does it need to be .035I am currently building a propane forge and your burner IMO is the best thing sence ice cream. That was the butter buy the way. For real though it seems to be by far the easiest and most efficient build I have seen.I also sent you an email threw IFI in regards to my forge build and was hoping you could give me some additional advice. Thanks in advance Beatsy

Frosty, Thanks for the encouragement I cant wait till she getshere.It willbe a bit but this is the one Im chasing so thank you sir.Now that I've got your attention. About the T burner can I use 1in pipe all theway threw the build? Does the .35 tip have to be .35 or can I use a smaller tip for consumption reasons? My main concern is the pipe question though. Thanks, Martin Moldovan

Thanks, Lou I feel that ive made a grand choice.

FatFudd That is a thing of beauty and just made me well nevermind lol. When I seen that pic it made me wish I had it on order right now. Cant wait but I have to. To everyonethat replyed thank you. Martin

-Glen The five bucks a day is a goood starts Thanks for the incouragment I was thinking 100 a week until I get there.Since I've got you here is there any way to change my Name to my New Forge name without making a new profile? And I agree my wife is a heven sent and Im fortunate to have such a woman. As far as the anvil goes I can'twait to get the cheddar together. Judson Thanks for the incouragment, like stated earlier Ive read that if you want a certain size you should save a little mor a get the next one up.

Well, Ive definitely made the my decision for my lifetime anvil .For those who replyed and have given there opinion .I appreciate it .The decision I made is to purchase the Rellfingheis #58 330lbs I think this will work for all my projects and probably not out grow me a bit. Now just to save a few more hundred pluss shipping the cost without shippingis a pricey 2850 in cold hard cheddar but at least I will have my dream anvil and maybe set up a bed next to me and my wonderful wife who is allowing this to happen.I know it is a bit bigger than I was originally thinking but I was told if you think you want an anvil a sertain weight to go to the next size .This makes sense as tool time Tim says hu hu hu or something. I am so blessed to have a wife that supports my dream and dosent hold me back much.For that I thank you.For all the people that have given me there words of wisdom and just a nice conversation. Isay thank you and God Bless you and all you familys. Forge on and create beautiful things sharp or artistic. Thanks all, Martin Moldovan

JUDSON Well I guess we have a winner and it is the Rellfingheis and cant wait to get mine.I got in touch with the supplier and he said the 220 is not in stock and it could take up to a year to bring one of these bad boys home...lol cant wait so I will plan on the 220 untill I get word of him having his resupply I will save some more money and Mabe just Mabe I will get a bigger one.I like the hardness of the Rellfingheis at a great depth of hardness seem to be the best imo sold today. And ive done some research on lots of anvils as of now. Thanks for the reply and attachment. I took a gander and this is my conclusion so thank you...

As a matterof fact as far as ive researched the Rellfingheis anvils have a very high rockwell into 60s so this is exciting not to mention the steel they make them from is hard enough to take a ball pean hammer blow and not even mark it.I also understand by the type or alloys used not only keeps the sitface strong to an astonishing depth and by the same alloys allows for strong unchipable corners.It was said that during a forge in the fella that sells these things missed as a striker came down pn a corner half on half off and not even a scratch.I guess all in all I want the best of the best and sofar I have my eye on the Rellfingheis 220lb Thanks for the reply, Martin

Fat fudd this is why I am considering the 220 ,as we speak im trying to look at previous post but there seem to be something wrong with the stickys, so thanks for the advice. Judson Yaggy It is my understanding that the Rellfingheis has a harder face perhaps the hardest and possibly the best rebound in new anvils, haven't done any research on the nimba or fontanini though. Do you use one of these? What do you think about them ? I guess I should have put in the post that I was looking for a great anvil but I m partial to the Rellfingheis though. Thanks for the reply

Well the price difference is only a few mor hundred that all the size is only part of it though. Thanks for the reply.

Hey all, I am getting ready for the purchase of my lifetime anvil and was wondering if anyone uses or has used this brand anvil. The one im looking at is the #57 210lbs. Or the #56 120 any recommendations? It will be a brand new purchase any help in this would be appreciated. Thanks, Martin

Thomas Well ive never had the excitement of a popped canister but to be frank I just found for me and what im using it isn't nessasarry for me.To add I agree with the HT and paper it helps as far as I can tell.Have you ever used (cant think of the name ) for limiting scale in the HT?

Thomas I was being sarcastic, I say its not necessary todo.Ive had the same success rate without adding any combustibles.So I was thinking if you dont mention it .Well what if someone put to much ? ah, pipe bomb .Just saying I dont think its nessasarry to ad flammables to your package.... Steve As stated it realy dont matter to me I just dont use it and dont think its nessasarry and maybe the oil paints may burn off making it not as effective as acrilic because of the drytime.I mean you want the coating dry first right. My white out does have zinc oxide and not titanium. Well I didn't know there were different kinds of this.Interesting

Ive canister welded both with flammables and without and have had the same effect. So I choose to not use flammables it seems to not have made a difference on the out come besides if your canister is full and you leave a pinhole dont you think the oxygen will get burned off. Im just saying it hasnt made a difference for me. Thanks for the help slag It will be interesting to try I know it will be a far better cost effective way in the end.The gum should work nice I will give it a go.

You vaguely mention other cost effective ways to get the job done so what are they and to answer the question why would i worry about flammable paint being put in to a canister,Well for one was just suggesting caution especially on account oil paints take longer to dry than others and id be concerned about using it. Yes i know zinc is toxic but honestly whats the difference if you use white out or paint ?I was just curious if anyone used it before and what was the out come.

Well to answer a post the white out is used for the zinc content to help the canister not adhere to the bilit so I had the idea of useing artest grade paints didnt think it was a wise idea to put a flammable paint in an almost closed canister but what do I know.I was just suggesting caution. To the other post that suggested titanium white didnt think of that but it may work.I just thought Id ask if anyone tryed it rather than white out. Yes I know zinc is toxic which is why people use white out? I mean whats the difference either you use zinc inhibited white our or you use a pigment or you could fight your way to the prize by grinding your XXXX .Either way this was a question not ment for an argument thanks for the replys. Thanks for the post didnt give much thought to using titanium pigment I wss going on the assumption that all used white out so thanks. I will give it a try.

Does anybody know if you can use artest grade zinc white for coating the inside of the canister prior to adding your desired materials. I am asking because everything I've researched has said they use white out for this and I am curious about the use of artest grade paints or just pure zinc oxide pigment that you could mix to ge your desired consistency. I know from experience that the better the artest paint the more pure the pigment, but you can also get pure pigment and mix it your self. IMO if artest paints/ pigment will work rather than white out you could get more product and a more pure zinc oxide white that would be easier than buying multiple bottles of white out. If you try this I suggest you use only water-based /acrylic paints. Oil paints after all are flammable. Also remember that the better quality the paint the stronger the pigment so this is why I was thinking of the dry pigment which would make it possible to get a desired consistency.

Sorry it's round stock all of it 3.5in cot to 1to 2 in. And the 10in piece is also round at 3.5 in in circumference. RTHIBEAU IF YOU DON'T MIND WHAT DID YOU FORGE OR STOCK REMOVAL WITH THE 1144. JUST WONDERING. I AM WANTING TO USE IT AS A COUPLE HAMMERS, CUTOFF HEARTY, FULLERS and I don't know what else. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. MARTIN

I have several at 3.5 x 1 to 2 in. And a large piece about 3.5x 10 in give or take any inch.

This is what I was thinking I will keep you posted

We shall give it a try and see ,perhaps it my make a ok tool ,hammer..I will let you know .it will be a little while until I can get to it but you will here about it. Thanks for the clarification, Let's me get this right water should be right or shall I try oil as well just to see ? I do have extra just a thought.