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I Forge Iron

brianstucker

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Posts posted by brianstucker

  1. I've had an add on Craigslist for a couple of weeks now. And I finally got a hit. It weighs 192lbs. 350$ is the minimum he will take for it. It was his grandfather's and his dad learned how to weld on it. Do you think it affected the hardness of it? Thanks in advance.

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  2. On May 22, 2016 at 0:02 AM, Charles R. Stevens said:

    JHCC, I think you have lost the young lordling...

    crappiew, I would go 1/2 round or start 1/2 round and flatten out as you move back. It'd a lot of grinding tho. It will just help you draw stock and start curves, but in reality radiusing the edges will do much thesaurus for less grinding, think 1" radi taperd to 1/4 in effect giving you a 1" fuller at one end and a 1/4" at the other end. 

    Sounds good sir. I appreciate the info. 

  3. Im gonna go ahead and grind it. I'm half way there now. I think it will be a good anvil when I'm done with it. I'm gonna attach a hardy hole to the side of it. I saw that idea on anvil fire. That way I'm in no rush to go out and over pay for an anvil. The money I would of spent on 1 overpriced anvil. I will have used in totally getting started and set up. And I will have enough material left over to build myself a good welding table. 

    I've also go a piece of rr track. I will modify a horn on one side of it.

  4. 2 minutes ago, 7A749 said:

    Unless you know somebody, having it ground at a shop will be expensive. Especially if they have to take a lot off. A Blanchard grinding operation will take more material off than standard surface grinding with the narrow part of the wheel. Usually, the part is machined to within a thousandth before traditional precision grinding, but if it's already been hardened, good luck with that.

    If you wanna flatten it out on the narrow striking edge, layout a line on the high side parallel with the low side, get a good square and have at it with an angle grinder and abrasive wheel. Make sure the layout line is all the way around the high parts so you have a visual gauge. Start taking off the high side and keep checking with your square against the low side to keep track of how much you take off. Don't go nuts, it'll take a little while. Once you get it down to as flat as you can get, then use a sanding disc to finish it out. 60 grit will likely be just fine. It's not the space shuttle.

    You can get it very close using this method, but it's time consuming. Checking against the parallel and perpendicular axis at regular intervals will insure you're not taking too much off. I would probably use a dykem die when I started to get close so you don't end up grinding the low end by mistake. A framing square would be ideal for this, a smaller one anyways. I've finished a little metal in my time and it's definitely doable. 

    Good luck with it.

    IMHO of course

    This is what I'm gonna do.

  5. 25 minutes ago, littleblacksmith said:

    You may want to cut some holes in the side of the forge so that you can insert longer stock easier.

                                                                                               Littleblacksmith

     

    When I get my firepot put in I'm gonna cut them out.

    I have a set of 10" wheels I'm gonna put on it. Turn it into a cart I can move around.

  6. I've been working on my forge. I am using materials I have had laying around for years. It is 48" x 30". Only thing I am buying is a hand crank blower and a fire pot. I've got to work on my legs next. I have to find some material for that.

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  7. It's 40" tall and it has 4 1/2 inch jaws.

    I actually told the guy I was just gonna use it as a yard ornament. Because I knew if he thought I was gonna actually use it he would of not come down so much.

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