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I Forge Iron

brianstucker

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Posts posted by brianstucker

  1. On June 4, 2017 at 8:57 PM, Frosty said:

    Better. ITC-100 doesn't fire hard and will rub off after a while. Metrikote hardens for better durability and costs WAY less. The last time I checked a 1lb. can of ITC-100 cost around $126.00 plus something like $25.00 shipping and handling. Worse, it's premixed with water so I'm paying something like $125/lb for WATER!

    If I didn't just mix Zircopax and Kast-O-Lite -30 to make my own kiln wash I'd be buying one of the two products Wayne sells. 

    Frosty The Lucky.

    Thanks Buddy. I appreciate it.

  2. That's what I do. I like having enough material on hand for experimentation purposes. I have already built a couple nice forges and give some too a buddy. And still I have enough to do a couple more. I'm in the process of building a nice little 2 burner forge.

  3. Sorry for the late response. I dont check ifi everyday. My mini burner is 7.5" × 2.5". I just used a cheap dayton 135 cfm blower fan. Honestly Idk why the larger burner developed the cracks twice. I cured out the Mizzou per instructions. The only think I can think of is I built a thicker burner body. Maybe the steel got too hot and expanded causing the cracking. They actually cracked in the same spot. On the mini burner I built. I used 2.5"  14 gauge square tubing. The larger burner body is 3/16" material.

  4. I built a couple of ribbon burner forges. They work great. But I have already had to rebuild the burner in my larger forge twice. The smaller one works great. I ended up converting my large forge to just forced air out of a 2" pipe. And let me tell you what that dude flat out rocks now. I could probably get that dude to 2700 degrees but I shut it down at 2400 degrees. I have 1 1" layer of Kawool and the I cast the interior with 99% alumina refractory. Which is a 3400 degree refractory. And the floor is silicon carbide. I think all of this is straight overkill but that's how my my mind works. I have built a couple of very simple Venturi style burners. They work great. I am going to build the forge bodies this week for the Venturi style burners.

    Here is a thread with my ribbon burner. I also built the mini ribbon burner. I use a 1/16" orfiace on the mini. 1/8" was just too much of a fuel dump. And I also used a lot smaller blower. I hooked up my 164cfm to the mini and had way too much air. If you have any questions just ask. I am no expert but have spent many hours playing with fuel to air mix for these burners.

     

  5.  

    9 hours ago, Frosty said:

    This is a first blush speculation by a guy who'd have to research things to have a real opinion. I know they make spark "proof" cyclonic dust separators. Seen them in metal shops for decades.

    I think the real trick is effectively collecting dust at the grinder without the collector becoming a hazard to safe operation.

    Frosty The Lucky.

     I was asking about "if anybody has or knows where" a specific type of motor blower. Not the actual dust system. Thanks for your Advice. 

  6. 15 minutes ago, Frosty said:

    This is a first blush speculation by a guy who'd have to research things to have a real opinion. I know they make spark "proof" cyclonic dust separators. Seen them in metal shops for decades.

    I think the real trick is effectively collecting dust at the grinder without the collector becoming a hazard to safe operation.

    Frosty The Lucky.

    Sounds good. 

  7. I am gonna set up a dust extraction set up. My plan is to run everything to a spark arrester. Then directly out of the shop. What size motor and blower am I gonna need to set this up? And does anybody have any recomendations for a specfic motor/blower source. I am looking for a quiet one.

    20170329_143417.jpg

  8. 8 hours ago, rhitee93 said:

    Just to give you a data point on your costs, I am nearing completion on a 40-ton dual cylinder press.  This will be powered with a two stage pump that is 22/7GPM using a 14hp Brigs engine.

    I purchased everything new

    I had the large structural steel members machined at a local shop to the tune of about $500 (They supplied the steel)

    My total cost at this point is close to $2k.  I think with some economies of scale and clever buying, your price point is pretty close.

    This is where I am today...

     

    IMG_20170311_160316124.jpg

    Are you using 4" or 5" cylinders? And what thickness of angle are you using?

    7 minutes ago, Derek Melton said:

    Those questions are still being tossed around right now. Personally I don't want to make anything less than 30 tons and favor the H frame for strength. 

    I have been thinking of building one like the one pictured above. Except Batson's plans call for 1/4" angle but I was thinking about going 1/2 " angle .With 2 5" cylinders. That will get you in the 50 Ton range. 10hp motor 28 gym 2 stage pump. I am in the process of getting a rotary phase converter set up in my shop so I can use a 3 phase motor. And I am also getting some more 3 phase equipment.

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