Woody

I just checked it no virus, your virus program must be reading some of the junk that runs at the top of the page on the free site as virus.

AM ain't no virus on either page, don't know what your virus blocker mis read but they do that some times.

I did a google search on torsion bar "steel composition" got tons of hits. Even got a patent which gave the analysis of some. From the analysis, except for some vanadium in the torsion bar, the composition is very similar to 5160. I have made several knives out of the torsion bar from a Toyota and it hardens nicely and holds a fine edge.

Woody

The instructions for constructing said sword are here"

Hanson Custom Knives - A Bravenet.com Hosted Site

Hanson Custom Knives - A Bravenet.com Hosted Site

Nice Ramp Jr. my prayers are still with both of you. Tell Cookie hi for me, hope she gets to come home soon

how big are the disks. You can make nice flowers out of them.

I was in Bill's shop in the early 70s and he was making pattern welded blades then, he showed me a "Persian Fighter" with a Fiddleback Maple handle and scabbard with silver wire inlays he has just finished.

principal metals does not list 1084 but they list forging temperatures for 1075 and 1095 as follows so I would think that if you kept 1084 within the ranges listed everything would be fine since the forging range is very similar for both steels and 1084 would fall between the two.

1075: Forge at 2200 F down to 1700 F. It is important to do an annealing operation after forging.

1095: Forging may be done at 2150 F down to 1750 F. Before forging the steel should be given a full anneal at 1650 F and slow cool so as to homogenize the alloy prior to forging.

Remember the longer the hoses the more gas you will loose when turn off the tanks and bleed the hoses after use. If you do not turn off the tanks and bleed the hoses, acetylene can deterioriate the hose after time and cause it to leak. The leak is usually found when the first person thru the door in the morning hits the light switch which ignites a room full of flammable gas.

"i just ground a groove and welded a very strudy handle onto it, it will cut a stone. or more precise, blast it into a thousand piece when it hit, and no damaga to the blade,"

I have a 10 lb sledge hammer that will do the same thing but it don't cut the rock

I have a list of the usual type of steels found in various pieces of junkyard steels, ie. springs, axles etc and I have a chart that shows the compositions of many types of steel if you send me youe email addrese via the private message feature on this forum I will email it to you. It is in MS Word Format

Woody

Glenn, Can you do that again and take pictures I would like to see that :)

Another word of caution if you use antifreeze remember that antifreeze is a combustable liquid and further the vapors are not all that good for you "Vapor inhalation is generally not a problem unless heated or misted. Exposure to vapors over an extended time period has caused throat irritation and headache. May cause nausea, vomiting, dizziness and drowsiness. Pulmonary edema and central nervous system depression may also develop. When heated or misted, has produced rapid, involuntary eye movement and coma."

A while back I posted this link and it got made into a sticky, but with the updates it seems to have been dropped so I thought I would post it again. It is very useful information and will help to dispell some of the myths, alchemy and mis-information that abounds in knifemaking circles.

http://www.feine-klingen.de/PDFs/verhoeven.pdf

Last Friday, anyone who logged into chat was routed directly into Knife Chat, some of these people didn't want to go to Knife Chat. Route all chatters into the main chat room and let the ones that want to go to Knife Chat get there by themselves.

A vis it to Jr.s shop, and basement are an education in themselves. The things you see there will leave you awe struck.

Nice Work Finnr

It works for me, must be something wrong with your computer. You could always do it the old fashioned way and type principalmetals.com into your browser bar and hit the enter key.

pearlite is a type of insulation material similar to vermiculite. It is very fine and spherical in shape like little perals, hence the name.

all my gillotine tools are super quenched mild steel, they have been holding up for years.

Thermite welding is done under very controlled conditions by people who know what they are doing. If you must persist in this endevoir, please clear everybody out of the immediate area that way if you become a candidate for a Darwin Award you don't have a group rate and take a bunch of people with you.

1. Know what type of steel you are dealing with either by purchasing new stock, or by consulting a junkyard steel list like the one on this site which will give you a fairly good idea of the steel type if the original use of the steel can be identified, ie. car leaf spring etc.

2. Go here Principal Metals click on property data, then on the type of steel from the drop down menu, ie tool steel, alloy steel, then from the drop down menu pick the type of steel that you have, ie 1085, 5160, A-2, D-2 etc. The information for that particular steel will come up telling you forging temperatures, annealing temperatures and tempering temperatures. Be advised that the tempering temperatures will be given as a range of temperatures with the lower temperature resulting in the hardest with the steel becoming progressively softer as the temperature increases.

Very nice work

super quench mild steel will get you about a Rockwell C 42. As I understand it, super quench was invented to get a bit more hardness out of mild steel at least that is the rumor I heard.

Triton you did NOT anneal that piece of spring, you hardened it. To anneal, heat the piece to non-magnetic, then let it soak for a couple minutes at that temperature to be sure it is heated completely thru. Then put it in a bucket full of ashes, vermiculite or lime. Make sure it is completely buried in the stuff in the bucket. Let it cool in the bucket over night.

Remember Quenching steel hardens it.

Slow cooling over a long period of time, annealing, softens steel.