Thief_Of_Navarre

If it is a mousehole they have a flow rate of 7 cu ft per second for hardening at the time of that style acccording to the moushole bible. Good luck

That's what I was getting at really, perhaps I wasn't very tactfully. 

*edit* If it is a mousehole you'll have to take it to meeting of the rivellin and the loxley circa 1920 to have the water flow to quench it sufficiently. 

25 bucks? What a steal (I resisted the pun). Looks great

I got two of these from a local retired blacksmith and he kindly told me what the tools were I was buying. Still havnt found a use for them personally but they were from a job lot and they are good hard steel so I'll be keeping them.

You would be better off making your own anvil then trying to reface that one. Unless you have 20+ years experience hardening anvils. There is plenty of workable face on your anvil

A few other makers had their anvils made by mousehole forge but rudely skimmed and marked their own brand in. Sanderson was one of them, Vulcan 'may' have been another. The shape of the horn makes me think mousehole

Thanks Frosty. 

I couldn't find anything on the forums about but at risk of sounding stupid I thought I'd ask anyway. Does case hardened steel behave the same way as any other hardenable steel under heat? When one of the guys in the truck shop at work says they literally bin the stuff when it's reached the end of its serviceable life so he is having a word with his boss to see if there's is any reason I can't take it.

Thanks in advance

I've only forge welded once before so take anything I say with a pinch of salt. You'll need more than a few heats at welding temp (hotter than forging temp) to forge weld. Plenty of flux while heated in between hammering and it should come good. 

Really good. I'm a fan.

That PW is in great condition, nice find.

@ a guess around 1870. Newer face with older style feet. Might want to check for a serial no' under the horn on the feet. America imported them in droves even after making their own (better) anvils using the peter wright method. 

Cracking effort so far. Keep the pictures coming

That being said your initial idea about making a coke rake is a good one. For coke the head can be about 1.5 inch, for charcoal it will want to be a bit bigger; look at pictures of ones people use for home fires. It was one of the first things I did after S hooks.

My new brooks. Still on the back seat of the car. 1950, 1 1/4 CWT, face is cherry and rebound is about 80%. Paid £1.40 a pound for it.

Echo what steve said. Good kit BTW, that anvil is cherry imo

All that Trenton I have seen have had the noticeable step on the feet. Rebound test will tell you all you need to know

That's incredible. Thanks for showing us. It wouldn't look out of place in low of the rings that one!

And this is why I enjoying logging on.

I feel a little shameful that it took me so long with all my kit when you have a working forge at zero cost with only a few of hours work. Good show! Keep the pictures coming.

You could always ask your local supplier for a price list and see how they react

Wow, must have been a monster vice! My mousehole cost me £30 here in the UK. Pretty much every junk yard in this neck of the woods has some lying about. 

No worries. Plenty of info on here. You'll probably find you've thought of your own projects before you get through much of it.

Link removed by request.

Start off with some long bar stock and when you've finished your work cut the reins shorter on a Hardie cutter or lacking kit you could shear them off on the edge of your anvil. That's what I started on!

Regards

Very nice Pine Country Forge, I'll save that one to memory for later.