Thief_Of_Navarre

Cool pictures, looks like fun was had!

First thing I wanted to make was one of BlackFrog's WI bottle openers. Got it stinking hot and it still delaminated while punching, I think I may have heated too quickly. I think programs like forged in fire and certain other more historical programs are to blame for new starters unhealthy obsession with blades.

Personally I think changing the stock you have into a shape that's better for you to work with is a good lesson in control and it establishes good habits. Fire tending is another really important thing, tedious for a new starter but important.

On 19/06/2017 at 1:05 PM, JHCC said:

Ah, that was it. Thanks. 

Like an irrational preference for a certain Swedish anvil brand?  

Or even a certain Sheffield one?...

Biggun and Foundry man; both tragic tales

I'm with VaughnT, I finally learned to walk away and let scrap yards stockpile for me. I also try to limit myself to 2 decent anvils... Unless its really nice and a bargain, so yeah currently have 5

Every weight you can imagine, mine is 141 but I've seen ones marked 139 and 140 so I guess they just made, weighted and stamped. Construction wise they are typically steel faced on a two piece solid wrought iron body. Mine annoyingly has a dead spot right in the middle of the face, rest is 85-90% even near the heel; rings almost as loud as my brooks (deadening measures and ear defenders a must!!!)

It's late guys. Stop horsing around, you'll wake the neigh'bours!

I have two Mouseholes and I'd trade them both in a hot minute for a soderfors.... Even despite being from Sheffield originally.

I hope you've got a crane and a full wallet lol. Nice find!

Even in the states it might be a tad pricey, even as a museum piece. If you lived in the UK you could have my 250lb mousehole for $400. Depends whether the area you live in is rich in anvils or not; probably better to hear the opinion of someone closer to your area.

KL anvils and the Brooks farrier pattern both have the rediculous looking faces to them and I'm sure they aren't the only ones. I'll stick my neck out and say it's a military issue KL; cast steel.

My favorite anvil is my 168lbs brooks. Easy to shift, some undressed edges and some factory rounded ones (military issue). But like you say the handling holes; like those of an older anvil (my 238lb C&A mousehole) are great for bending. Personal preference and the jobs you do!

Of course! But I'd stay clear of blades early on because they require high carbon steel which is easy to wreck if your not well practised. Bangles are a good starter project; they work on drawing, tapers, twists and bends. You can make them more elaborate as you progress.

Tempted to think so but as George said it might be a first. It would have to be power hammered to take that sort of abuse IMO 

By the shape I'd asume mid 1800 english. I can't say really, the impression I get from the neck is different from the feet. A Sanderson maybe!?

There is a page here about measuring without a scale!

3 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

And my local scrapyard has several forklift tines in it; I have 2 at home and so don't need to stock up.  Most places I've talked with here in the USA won't use repaired tines due to liability issues.

Here in the UK we don't have the same 'See it, Sue it' culture but its definitely on it's way. Which means free good steel for me!

Nice kit. IFI and anvilfire have very extensive resources for projects and techniques. Work on things that improve your techniques, hammer and tong control and the little used muscles of the arms and back so your cartilage and ligaments can keep up with the rigors of blacksmithing. I personally started with S hooks but folks will probably there are better things to start on. Square to round or Visa versa is also good to work on and can give you decent stock to work from scrap

Not sure about the make but it's a beautiful (I'd guess early) French pig anvil, I have Hulot harmel anvils both with the flat base and the 'pig' feet. Both excellent tools! A moderator might move this to Anvil and Swage blocks section at some point, but don't panic! Nice anvil

As Thomas implied, reach or counterbalance fork time makes an excellent anvil if you can get hold of it! We have 22 reach trucks at work and 5 CBs and its still rare as hens teeth because they prefer to repair it. The wheels are good quality though and once they reach the end of their preformed lives they are usually chucked (at least by ASDA/Walmart)

The way you described drew a very clear image in my head. You should be a teacher...

Of course, you're right. It's all knowing when to jump on the wagon and how far to ride it! 

I have steel on CI, cast steel and steel on WI and of all of them I prefer the cast steel anvils. I haven't tried a fancy new ductile iron anvil but I've heard good things. 

6 hours ago, WNC Goater said:

"We've always done it this way".  Boy how many companies and organizations have died because of those words.  

Forget Maggie thatcher! This was the singular reason for the death of the Sheffield steel industry; An inability to move with the times. My parents moved out of Sheffield at just the right time I think (early 60's). My dad still ended up working in the industry but for a crane manufacturer in Germany where they were actually thinking forward and investing in new process.

5 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

The higher the grade the wrought iron the more difficult it is to tell by rust striations; very high grade wrought iron can have over 250000 slag spicules per each cross sectional inch---a bit fine for eyeballing!  (number from "Wrought Iron Its Manufacture, Characteristics and Applications"  James Aston and Edward Story)

Funny you should say that. I pulled some bars of wrought from an old gutted stable block door and they looked so smooth and uniform I assumed them to be mild steel. After I put them in the forge and had one delaminate on me while punching I soon realised I had 60-70lbs of WI. I'm saving it for when I'm a bit more competent to make pretty things with!

Cool, get forging on it!

20 years of work and still looking great. I managed to chip my Vulcan within 6 months, it is only 50lbs though and the work too heavy