medieval

I haven't compared steel prices relative to what they were last year, but I'm sure they are not going down as fast as gas prices. When I get a fabrication/forging job I always buy more than I need for the job. That way, if I make a mistake, I have extra. It also builds my inventory. I was talking to a friend of mine 2 days ago, he said scrap prices have dropped dramatically. Over $400/ton in September to $20/ton now. I guess the Chinese have cut back on construction since the olympics. :confused: I just pay what they want:(

I started making damascus this year. I thought that it would be good forge welding practice. I have done cable, chain and layered (1080 and 15n20). I have two questions: The nickle part of the finished blades don't shine as much as I have seen on other peoples blades (even though I polish before etching) After etching I use baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. When I have used a toothbrush to make sure that the neutralizing solution gets at everything. It washes off the black residue in the etched areas. It seems that the etched areas are fragile. At what point do they become permanent? After sealing? :confused: thanks, Bert

After tempering pieces I would like to protect and maintain the colors. I want to keep the bright blues and the violets. Clear coat does NOT work. I have tried several brands. At best it is hit or miss, and tends to wash out the blues and makes them brown. I saw some work at the local Saturday market, asked the guy about it, he just smiled and said it was a secret. So I know it can be done. :confused: Thanks for your help.

I have a 200lb Vulcan anvil that I bought about 5 years ago. I came off a US Navy ship, and was in very good shape. The only disappointment was the chisel marks on the face. I TIG welded some of the deeper ones with 4130 filler rod. The minor ones that are left are not big enough to wreck my work, as I like my work to look like it is hand made. It has been a very good anvil and seems to have a similar rebound as my 165lb Trenton anvil. One of the properties of cast iron is that it is sound deadening, they will not ring like a forged anvil. Any anvil that you look at should be tested for rebound before you buy it, regardless of brand.

Look at Reid supply co. (reidsupplydotcom) I bought some pieces from them to use as a die hilder for a square shafted touchmark. I don't know what term they use, but I got 3 sizes. You can then cut a piece 3/4" long and put it into the bored hole of your piece and plug weld from the outside. Grind the welds flush and you can't tell how it was done. Their phone # is: 800-253-0421. They are located in Michigan. ;)

I just got thru registering on this website about 10 minutes ago. Thought that I would browse the site, a bit. Hello to all from the new guy. I have been selling plans for a "build-it-yourself" hammer. I call it the "Li'l Abner" air hammer. I designed it about 6 years ago and am still using the prototype in my shop. For particulars see it on my website rmetalart.com It is very satisfying to build tools, and an air hammer is too useful not to have.

I was on the internet the other day, looking for how-to articles and books with projects. I ran across this website. Halleluiah!!! I have been a welder and fabricator for about 35 years, but I only started blacksmithing about 10 years ago. I started by joining ABANA and eventually found the regional chapter in this area. The NorthWest Blacksmithing Association was a real find. We have 2 conferences a year, in spring and fall. great way to learn how to forge. These people have been friendly and easy to talk to. Of course I dove right in and took some classes, found some tools (my wife says I will use any excuse to buy or make tools). It didn't take long to reason that I needed a power hammer. I didn't want an old mechanical hammer, and I couldn't bring myself to buy a new pneumatic hammer, so I designed one using Ron Kinyon's air circuit. I call it Li'l Abner and it has worked so well that I sell plans (and kits) for those who want to "build-it-myself". I am teaching blacksmithing at Clackamas Community College in Oregon City, Oregon. It has been fun and has improved my skills, because I have to show people how to forge, as well as be able to explain the techniques involved. I am putting together a binder of how-to's for the class. I have found many, very basic articles (including some from this website). I would like to find some articles that are intermediate and more involved than tongs and flowers and such. Any help/ideas would be appreciated. I have one 'starter' question: What process will protect the temper colors from fading?? Painting them with clear coat paint only dulls them and washes out the blues. I have seen some items that had temper colors and they had some kind of coating, yet were still bright and colorfull. What is it??? Again, I am happy to have found this website. Happy hammerin'