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Posts posted by HWHII
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Buying used scap from the local yard here. The cost on that would be .40 a pound. If you say it weights 200lb it would be $80.
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I have had good luck TIG welding a 1/4-28 SS nut on the end of 1/4" SCH pipe and threading the MIG tip in to that. I have not done this on a Ron Reil burner though.
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Good purchase! David makes a quality forge. I bought the same burner that you have on your forge and have been very happy with it.
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A Wax for all Seasons
1 cup Johonson's paste wax
1 cup boiled linseed oil
1 cup turpentine
1/2 cup shaved bees wax
2 tlbs Japan Dryer
I put all the ingredients into a new metal 1 qt. paint can and set on the top of the forge to melt. Do not place it over a direct flame. You could use a electric heat gun. Let it melt slow and then mix together. If you are unfamiliar with Japan Dryer. It is a paint additive to help oil based paints dry faster. I buy mine at Home Depot. Warm the part, to the point it is hard to hold on to, and apply wax. then 2nd and 3rd coats when part cools. Let dry overnight buff to luster. -
A.D.
in Prayer List
Prayers sent for them and their family.
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I have had several people tell me to do this process. I have about decided to go this route. I already have everything to do this with.
Show us some pics when you get it done. ;) -
Prayers for you and your family!
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If you are looking for a heavy screen like fire place screen. Try King Architectural Metals.
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If you feel the need to have some good edges and do want to but alot of $ in it. Just follow the preheat instructions you have red about and weld it up with 7018 and let it air cool. I have done a few not so good anvils for people short on cash, this way and they have worked fine.
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Welcome Dave! Have Fun! ;)
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I like Rob Gunters term for it, " A Flying Bridgeport".
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It has a very nice, clean, even, and well balanced look to it. I like it alot!
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The kids I work with in my class a 11,12,13 years old. It sometimes is hard for me to believe most have never picked up a hammer or even no the difference between a flat or phillips head screw driver. When I first started teaching, I assumed way to much out of them. Like Frank said accuracy and control is their biggest problem. I only get them 1 hour a day twice a week so it is hard to get much done once they get their fires lit.The first couple classes I have them just beat some 1/2" square bar into submission as hard as they can and do what ever they want. At this time I also explain the cow poop theory which I like and they seem to also, lot of giggles. Next I will have them take and flaten the end out into the biggest, thinest even mass they can. Then we start on making nails, were they need to learn the control. Seems to work.
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I'm with Old N Rusty's suggestion. but to add to that on ebay there are a couple of companies that sell mounts for theses saws to make them work as a horizontal or vertical saw. I have a vertical mount and use it alot,it is a Mlwaukee. I would post you a link but don't know how. May be someone else will be kind enough to do it.
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I hate to even mention this but it might help you and others on a budget. If you buy a saw from Harbor Freight. The last time I checked, a 14" was under $200 not on sale. If you buy this saw and the one year waranty for $15 you can replace this saw as many times as you want for any reason and renew your waranty for $15. Say the saw runs for a year and does not brake you can renew your waranty the day before it runs out for $15 or just take your old one in and get a new one and $15. You don't even have to bring it in they will come and get it from you and bring you another. This will go on and on for the $15 waranty. You can get 13 at saws to make up the cost of one saw at $200 plus the $15 waranty and thats just in one year.
On the other hand I have had a Makita and a Milwaukee dry cut. The Milwaukee is gone bearings went on it. The Makita I still have and have had for 24 years I don't use it much at all anymore just to cut rebar every now and then, but it still runs. -
The plane trip is enough to scare me away. I might suck it up to go to New Zeland though? <_<
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Very Cool! I was out of breath just watching you young men doing all that striking. Great video!
My hats of to you Brian Brazeal. It must give you a great sence of pride to watch a student of yours put together a video like this where now he has become the teacher from what you have taught him and now passing it along to someone else and all the others who watch this video. Thank you! -
My first anvil was a 200lb cast iron from Mexico. I used it for two years before I found a good one. It worked.
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If you are concerned or have doubt about the safety of it all. It is your little voice telling you to come up with a plan B.
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Liquid wrench I use alot for busting bolts. WD40 mostly for a light lubricant. I have wanted to try the Kroil but have not found it locally. Now the home brew, I'll have to try and mix up a batch. Sounds great and makes sence. Thanks for this idea! If you store it in a Acetone can, do you still have the evaporation proublem? If so why would the ATF make it evaporate faster in its own container?
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HWHII that would be great, what days would work well for you? Also what you do ball park the price to be to fix it to be?
Sakdat PM me and we will set something up! Or you can get my buisness number off my web site and call me or email me. ;) -
If you want to take a drive down to Tucson I will fix it for you. I all the materials in stock to do it right.
How can I "stain" steel green?
in Finishes for Metal
Posted
You can still buy Dykem on line through durablesupply.com They carry a full line of transparent colors in 8oz. bottles. You can also get them through Grainger and MCS Supply. Dykem parent company is now called Dymon the phone number is 800-443-9536. If you call there customer sevice number. You might have a local supplier near you.