HWHII

I have preached to people that they are one of the most dangerous tools in the shop. I have had them blow up on me under normal use and have seen many injuries because of improper use. If they get a nick in them throw it away. I not worth trying to save a few bucks to keep using it.

60 RPM should be fast enough. More media will help the job.

I ware the same style as you but wire ear pieces. I just got a new pair from my local optical shop who specializes in safety glasses. Mine are perscription though with 1.75 magnifiers in them. A bit pricey but the should last a long time and I can have the lences change out in them. If you have a old pair that the frames are good have new lences put in them.

I have been trying to put a bulk coal purchase fo sometime for the AABA here in Arizona. I have run into alot of issues. Biggest ones in trucking. I have found some great prices on the east coast but the shipping is 3 time the cost of the coal with a 10 min. purchase and you arange the shipping. I have come to the conclusion for now the best choices for coal here in the west are Rob Gunter who has some high quality coal for $12.50 a 50lb bag in New Mexico or bulk purchases from King Coal at $190 a ton in Colorado. If any one else knows of any this wood be great!

Nice job! Very clean work. I know someone has already asked but how fast does it turn. In your gallery comments you said it takes 2 to 3 hours to clean the sample parts you had shown. Mine will do those  in 30 min. Speed helps.

Is a squirt of accelerant more or less than a quart?

 

For safety, no accelerants are needed or should be used in starting a fire in the forge. 

 

There are several methods suggested in the Forges > solid fuels > Forges and fires section of the site. Starting a fire is no more complicated than taking a couple sheets of newspaper, wadding them up, setting them on fire and adding coal and air. 

In the Harold House videos, he uses a little coal oil to light his fires. What do you think about that? They used coal oil to light fires for many years in heating stoves.

Here is a question for everone. I have not delt with commercial coke. I know it burns hotter than a green coal fire. I have been told buy some it can ruin a  normal forge fire pot. Is this true? Thanks!

Depending where you are in this country. I think you should be able to get $300 to $400 for it.

:huh:

Step 5) Finish Grinding
 
I did the finish grinding using a combination of a 7" grinder with a coarse cup wheel, 4" grinder with flapper sanding discs, 4x24 belt sander and a small pneumatic angle head grinder with a scotch brite pad for the final finish. The belt sander gave a nice straight and flat surface after getting it close with the coarse cup wheel.
           
I used a straight edge on spacers with a dial caliper to check the straightness of the grinding process as it progressed.

 
As you might imagine the final grinding  was the least enjoyable part of the process. It took quite a while (approx 6 hrs) to complete and was both mentally and physically tiring. I broke it up into 3 or 4 blocks to spread out the fun. If I were to do it again I would try putting the anvil in the milling machine and use a heavy duty carbide  fly cutter instead of grinding. I was originally afraid it would be too hard to cut but now I don't think it would be.

I did one like this with hard surfacing rod and took it into the machine shop. The forman did it for me and told me not to ever bring him another.  :huh: You have done a very nice quality repair.

You need two straps. One to work the blower on the inside and one on the outside to rewind and work with the counter weight.

With all the repair methods you have discribed you could classify them as good, better and best. I think you will find that one will fit into every catogory. I have always looked at anvil repair this way. How much do you want to spend dollar wise, and time and effort. I would not waste the time and effort and expensive rods on lets say a Vulcan but I would on a Fisher. Don't forget the best bang for your buck good old 7018 which alot of people have used.  When you start to grind and shape the hard surfacing welds you will understand why some choose other methods. I will be curious to see your findings. Good Luck!

I bought this forge a couple of days ago. I cleaned her up, oiled and built a hood for her. I looked high and low and all over but did not find anything but cast numbers on the bottom of the pan. Does anyone have any idea what it might be or how old it is. The bolts are wrought iron. Thanks!

I repaired a Star Hammer frame a few years ago for a friend. I welded it up a described by ciladog. The casting was of very poor quality. So we reinforced it with two plates one on each side then drilled holes through the frame to secure it. The weld did crack again after sometime, but with the plates it stayed intack. He is still using it today.

I have a friend who teaches blacksmithing at Mesa Community College in Phoenix. There welding lab has 15 Thermal arc inverters. They have perform very well for them and have had 1 board go out in the 3 years that they have had them. I have blue running through my blood and am a Miller man But if someone gave me a Lincoln I would not turn it down.  ;)

Congradulations Frank! Thats alot of coal and iron.  ;)

Harold, How is that LG  25# coming along? Are you getting this homemade hammer for yourself or someone else? Sure looks stoutly built.

 The hammer is coming along great. Just got a new motor for it to run off 110V. I am not buying this hammer just went to look at it for a friend who is interested in buying it to see if it would be ok for him to buy.

The problem with stainless is that is has a good memory and take more force to get it to beyond its yield point. A slip roll is definitly the way to go. I have built with alot of tanks and pressure vessels. So I have rolled alot of material in my day. Generally a roll that is rated for say 1/4" carbon steel is only rated for 1/8" stainless. Same goes for power shears. As the process would go you first would make yourself a radius template, and then preform the end of your sheets. Either by back rolling in a slip roll or with preform dies in a press brake. This eliminates the flat spots you would have on both ends. After the preform you would slide your sheet in and roll it back and forth increasing the roll pressure after going through forward and back.

Now if you are up for a challange and want to try by hand which is possiable up to 10 ga. Here is what you do. Figure out your stretch out for your piece and then cut it in half to make 2 pieces. Mark your pieces in 1/2" increments on both side of your sheet in the direction you want to bend. Make a radius template. Next clamp your part to a heavy steel table sandwiched between a heavy piece of angles iron and take a mallet and beat the sheet down over the edge of the table. Then move your part out a mark then repeat and keep checking with your template. Remember it is better to be a little tight than loose because it is easier to open your part then close it. If you need to open the radius you would hit on the outside of your part not the inside. When your done weld both halves together. It will not be perfect by any means but it will get your job done. Good luck if you try it!

Where in southern Cal. are you? Some areas have a no wood burning, wood stoves or fireplace ordinance. This ordinace would prevent you from having a coal forge if you live in one of these areas.

That brings back some memories!  :)  Some cool old school stuff there. I was fortunite to be able to learn it high school in the 70's but have never had a chance again. Thanks!

Actually, I went to look at it for a friend who is interested in buying it. I have got 25 lb Little Giant and I believe its destiny is to take the trip across country as soon as I get a building put up.

Went visit a old friend today and found this in his shop. He found it a few years ago. Its one of the better ones I have seen and runs great with good control. It was made for one thing and one thing only, repointing bits. I would quess the head weight at about 50 to 100 lbs.

In the metal craft there is no such thing as cheating. You use what you have and be proud of it. Some people would love to have a plasma cutter in the arsenal of tools.

As for radius on your dies, on my guillotine fuller I use old truck leaf springs with a 1/4" and 3/8" radius edge and just leave them as the are.

Nice find!

Welcome to " Living The dream" I hope all goes well for you both!

You should post your location in Michigan. There are a few sources for coal through the MABA. Jim Cokewell a member here also, could steer you in the right direction.