DKForge

Fiberop1, it does look like there is the remains of an eagle logo. Another test, I don't think you have mentioned, is if the anvil rings or not. If it does it is not a Fisher. If it has a thunk sound with great rebound off the face my bet would be a Fisher.

That's awesome Bully at least his desire is there and now it is just a matter of helping him understand why you need to be there with him. I was at a blacksmith conf. this weekend and was pretty surprised at the lack of youngsters there. It makes you wonder about the future of blacksmithing if we can't get more young folks interested.

Awesome Junksmith! Its all about showing others that blacksmithing is still alive and well and maybe just maybe "spark" the interest for someone else to take the step to try it themselves.

I found a 450# Fisher with the same condition. It has a case of dimples in the top from sitting outside in the rain prior to my finding it. If you look at the picture below when wire brushed those dark spots are dimpled depressions from rust. I would say it depends on how deep your dimples are and whether what you are making is affected by the marks they leave. But as I always point out and has already been said by others use it first and then decide.

Brian those are incredible. Thanks for the post and photos.

That's great Adirondacker! That's some of the best advice I was given when I started. Let everyone you come in contact know about your new hobby and your quest for old blacksmithing tools. You will be amazed at the opportunities that arise from that.

Gorgeous Brian thanks for another great project to try and great photos!

Well put Glenn. Maybe this should be made a sticky because there is a lot of "mis-information" out there about the "need" to immediately start grinding and welding on used anvils.

Cool Hand you can always talk with the existing guilds here in GA and see about starting your own local chapter of one of them. Here along the coast some of us had been getting together and talking and forging a couple of times a month for quite a while without any affiliation. Now, just recently, we are starting a coastal chapter of OBG. Looking at the map you are a lot closer to OBG meetings than we are and a number of us have been car pooling to the OBG meetings for the last couple of months (2 1/2 - 3 1/2 hour drive usually) saves on gas and is a lot of fun talking blacksmithing in the car.

Thanks Jimbob, see you this weekend?

Brian thanks for sharing that photo of the c-scroll jigs. I'm gonna have to make some of those that is a great tip.

Great post Unicornforge. Very well stated and true.

If you have a an OA setup do you own or lease your tanks?

Wow great looking shop! I can dream.

Hey dablacksmith just out of curiosity how do your prices compare to what I posted? If you don't want to be specific, are you higher or lower in the southwest?

Thanks

Hey Charlotte I'm not quite picturing what you are making do you have a photo of one?
Thanks

Wow Frosty those are great pics! I'm so happy for you. Now we all can't wait to see what you make with her when she is up and running.

Congrats again!
Darryl

I use the following formula:

(Hourly rate ($120/60) X actual time to create) + (material cost x 1.75) + (coal used in ounces x $0.75) + (% of aloe plant used for burns x $0.05) + (Cost of gas used to get to event / actual time to create) = Cost of item

For a standard 4 in. S hook this formula gets me to about $52.68. Then I go look at others are charging on websites and use that to set my prices.

Ok sorry that formula was a joke.

Here are some prices I have used in my area.

4 inch S hook - $2 or 3 for $5
5' Tripod made from 1/2" round stock - $30
Trammel - $35
Tripod and Trammel as set - $60
Fire poker - 3/8" square small plain - $25 - Large fancy - $45
Small colonial fork and knife - $10
Pig tail or meat filpper - $18
Oyster shucker - $18
Large roasting fork - $35

Hope this helps

That's great Frosty I'm happy for you finding one as I'd imagine they don't come around that often in your neck of the woods. Can't wait to see pix when you bring it home.

Nice Looking key rings Mike!

Ok I was just joking and thought of this link. cbl4823 - Fisher and Norris Museum

If you scroll down you will see a photo (15 from the bottom of the page) that has a bunch of saw makers anvils.

That anvil should work just fine and the fact that it has been in your family makes it even more special. There are many ways to make do without a horn, hardy or pritchel hole you just have to be creative. It should be great for blades as in effect that is what it was made for.

Congrats and lets see a photo of it!

Sorry that anvil wont work at all so you might as well just send it down here and I will take it off your hands. It is just taking up space in your shop.

Ok Junker, with that in mind I would use a 1.5-3 lb rounding hammer to start or start with a ball pein or cross pein. I just don't think the 4lb sledge you have is what will serve your purpose as a beginner looking to forge hot steel by hand. You mentioned you didn't think the 3 lber you had was heavy enough as it found like you were hitting with a stick. I saw your post with the photo of your anvil and you might want to look at a couple of things. Are you getting your stock hot enough, can you improve your anvil and are you using efficient hammering technique. All of those things can lead you to believe you need a new hammer when it might be an accumulation of issues.

Good luck.

Jeff keep that hook and then look back 6 months from now and say...wow look how far I have come! Every time you heat some iron and hit it while on the anvil you are learning something and that is what it is all about. Great job for taking the step to actually do it. Many never do.

Junker what type of smithing do you do or plan on doing that you use a 4 and 8 lb. hammer. Just wondering before I make my recommendation.