DKForge

Cool Hand it sounds like you are off to a good start. There have been a number of anvils recently on Craigslist.com in the Atlanta area. If you don't find one by May you should plan on going to the Madison, GA event. Southern Blacksmithing Conference 2009. The tailgating sales there should help you find a lot of equipment you might be looking for plus there will be a lot of great learning opportunities. Also check out the local guilds in GAOcmulgee Blacksmith Guild or Alex Bealer. I made my tuyere exactly as Frosty said with the black plumbing pipe. Pretty inexpensive, easy to do and it works great.

It's been said before but PLEASE don't be too hasty in "fixing" the anvil. Show us some photos and at least let us make our case before you decide what to do. Ultimately its yours and you can do what you want to it.

Great find hdwarner and a great deal! You done good.

Don A, that last photo is my favorite too I have it on my computer.

Nice work Goatman! I really like that.

I second what Thomas said. It was a very long day without IFI. I was relegated to visiting other sites less worthy of my time but you are back now and all is right in the universe again. Thanks to all who keep the site running.

So forgive the question but just to confirm... the Shade 3 lens is used when forge welding because you need to look into the fire to gauge color vs. other blacksmithing when you normally pull your piece out of the fire to check for color? Or are you wearing the Shade 3 for all of your forging?

Great photos Hollis that is awesome!

Very nice Wayne!

LOL Those are AWESOME FrogValley! Thanks for sharing the photos I will have to try one this weekend. They would make a great demo item.

Man I have dreams about places like that!

And if you were in Georgia I would consider the other. Best of luck and show us some photos if you decide to get them they sound interesting.

Hey FrogValley that snail sounds great do you have any photos you could share?

Just my personal observation when doing demos is the quicker the project the more you will hold their attention. What I mean is that if it takes a lot of steps, some of which they may not understand why you are doing even when you explain why you can lose their attention. When I demo I usually keep keep s-hook stock cut to size and ready to go so if I see folks heading my way I just stick it in the fire and by the time they get to my forge it is almost up to temperture. With simple s hook they see a lot of the skills you use on larger projects and it happens fast. Tapering, rounding on horn or turning hardy, reheating, squaring and twisting if you like and then repeating it on the other end to give a functional item. Another idea would be a a rough RR spike knife. Doesnt have to be to completion but they can see you go from something they all can recognize and watch as you change it into something else.
I also make a very small butter knife/letter opener out of 1/4" stock that people like. It is fast and keeps their attention.

People also like to see you finish items with beeswax it is fun to watch the watch smoke up and sometimes light on fire and they can smell the sweet honey like smell.

Tell us how much time you are expected to demonstrate and others will have other ideas.

Very flat clunks evenly along the whole face.

Hey WagonMaster those are some of my favorite places...I always have to be careful not to cause an accident when I find a new one and I hit the brakes and do a u-turn. You never know what you will find! Even an old anvil without a base can be used for many things. Can't wait to see the pics.

Those are great Wayne! Awesome job!

Yesterday was a VERY good day. Since starting blacksmithing only a couple of months ago I have caught a major case of Anvilitis and I am definitely part of the Blacksmiths Anonymous club. Yesterday I was fortunate enough to acquire two more anvils.

This first is a Vulcan 2 1/2 which equates to 25#. It is in great shape and even has part of the label still on the left side.

The second I still can't believe. It's a Fisher dated 1920 and has 45 on the foot. Yep a 450# Fisher. Does it have surface rust and did someone weld along the edges of the face a little to "help it" ...yes, but it is in great shape and is it a brute.

I hope this is a sign of how the rest of the year will go.

Thanks guys that answers my question it seems like the larger ones especially do not have them.
D-

Does anyone know if all Fishers have the hold down bolt holes under the horn and tail or were there some that do not have them? I am looking at a larger one that does not seem to have them and I was wondering if that is anything I need to be aware of.
Thanks for your help.
D-

All of the above including Craigslist.com and EBay. There is a guy in Allentown that was selling a bunch of anvils recently on Craigslist, he might be someone who would know where you could find a blower. Also check local blacksmiths guilds. I know PA has one just don't remember their URL do a Google search.

Nice Alfie! I really like the fire tongs. I have been looking to make a set and I like what you did with yours.

I have begun acquiring anvils as I come across them and now have a William Foster and a Fisher.

I am now looking at an old English anvil with no step that is 180lbs based on the stone weight on the side.

The seller says though that it doesn't really rebound and he does not believe it has a steel face. I found online where the English anvils in the 1700's and before did not have steel faces and were just forged steel forge welded together.

My question... is an old English anvil without a rebound worth buying as a usable anvil? Or is it merely a collectible at this point?

Thanks for your help

Hello all and Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Stopped by the local flea market today and picked up another hammer.

It is a straight peen, square face (1 3/4 square), 5 inches long and weighs 4 1/4 lbs. It seems to have a very small drift for the handle and thus has a pretty slim handle on it. On the left side I can barely make out what appears to be the brand Griffith stamped in the middle.

I have done google searches for that brand and have not been able to find anything.

Just thought I would check here to see if anyone could help me ID it.

Thanks for looking

I know I have only been around the site for a couple of months now so take this with that in mind. I would lean toward using it the way it is for awhile. If for some reason you decide it just isn't the size or pattern you want the changes you make to "fix" it can have a negative effect on a good old Peter Wright that others would want and use just the way it is. I understand the need to have a good spot to make a 90. I have a Fisher that has a similar issue to some extent but I have learned to use the whole anvil. I have spots on the heel that are sharp enough to get me a good 90 and it doesn't effect my work any. At the end of the day it's your anvil and you should do what you want. I prefer to see old anvils with history like your Peter Wright left the way they are. Just my $0.02. Good Luck.