Tyler Murch

I like the hammer, Frosty. What dimensions are the eye? How much does it weigh?

water from air will move into the oil eventually, you can weld a pipe with a ball valve on the bottom to let out water.

The rule of thumb with oil is 1 gallon per 1 pound of parts. For a punch, a coffee can will satisfy.

A piece is either straight or it is not straight.

When slitting a hammer, spin the hammer stock around opposite after every 3 strikes in order to keep a straight slit.

When drawing a point, set the end off the edge to conserve heat as that is the part that cools down first. Neck it down in steps, then forge the very end. It will have conserved its heat and you can better create heat.

When forge welding, always make the weld hammering from the inside and working out. Forge welded sections at high heat.

......

The humble Murch's Smithy anvil and Murch's Smithy forged hammer.
185 pounds of 4340 steel. Face is hardened.

I have a feeling you still may need to dress the hammer face. Crown it back further and see if it makes a difference.

For moving metal quickly, it is good to hit the steel with the face of the hammer at an angle. Striking with a certain edge of the face depending on where you are moving the metal moves the metal in the desired direction much much faster than hitting squarely with the face.

As for getting better control, I can suggest a few things:
Swing the hammer more- Cut up some stock. Something like eight or more pieces 1/2" square, and draw a taper on each end of each piece as an exercise.
Try forging in the dark. In the dark, you must be able to align the face of the hammer and your swing with the steel you are forging without using your eyes. Being able to do this will give you better hammer control at all hours.
Look at Uri Hofi's blue prints on his hammer technique. I will tell you now. It is very difficult to get used to. It took me almost a month to get the grip alone of that style correct. I don't expect many people at all who read this to even try it. I probably wouldn't have. It isn't easy to get used to. I had to see it in action to get motivated to pick up that style.

Another thing I want to add concerning the way steel moves:
The way steel moves can be illustrated with fresh cow pie, a basketball, and a baseball bat.
Let the fresh cow pie represent the steel, the basket ball will represent the face of the hammer, and the baseball bat will represent the either the peen of the hammer or an edge of the face. If the basket ball is dropped into the fresh cow pie, the material will move equally in all directions. If the fresh cow pie is hit with the baseball bat, the material will move mostly only in to directions like this <<< l >>>

Good luck.
Here to help.
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All of the above as well.

Glenn, I don't think that matters, but I do know that it is best if the handle is made so that the lines from the rings that you can see on the ENDS of the handle is running front to back. This helps keep it from breaking.

Acier, both are a good way to go. Compromise a little of both. Perhaps start and finish the day with techniques, and in between, work on a project.

Making knives and or money? Knives and a little money.

And yes, there certainly are cliques and yes, if you are not a follower your are abruptly spurned. Just like anywhere else.

I've enjoyed reading this thread. LeViAtHaN brings up some great points. The true facts of things tend to make people uncomfortable.

You found it!
Welcome
Tyler
TMurch

Don't even try hardening 1018 or A-36. Either get a better steel, or try hard facing.

Is it 1018, A-36, or ?

I don't harden splitting wedges. Wedges are hit with sledge hammers, the wedge needs to be softer than the sledge hammer, and sledge hammers are already rather soft. The fact that it is made from a medium carbon steel will provide enough durability alone, even though it is not hardened. Besides, with a piece of 1050 steel this large, the hardness would only run about 1/8" deep, unless you grow the grain, which would not be good. In the early days of America, wedges made from plain iron were prized.

The proof's in the puddin'. Let's see pics, let's see pics, let's see pics.

I forged this wood splitting wedge from 1-1/2" square 1050. No power hammer used. It was all done with a sledge.
I mean, anybody can make one of these under a power hammer. Don't strain yourself holding it under that big ram! Just kidding, I'm just wish I had a power hammer!


OBTW, you can take it off my hands for $30.:)

Many a forge have been made from dirt and ashes. So refractory cement should work!

I don't so much clean my shop, but throw junk away.

It might do ok monkeyboy. Oil burns out after a while. Burning out is when all the goodies and what not in the oil are burned out in smoke/vapor/whatnot. A new gallon of peanut of canola oil is about $5. A gallon is more than enough for most blades.

The punched ball connections are very cool.

Awesome hammer :)

Roflmaopimp

Hello all. I'm taking orders for hammers right now. You tell me what size and what type- dbl face, cross peen, etc. Most will be $60. - $80. I'll throw in shipping to the continental US for free.
Tyler Murch