Tyler Murch

Christopher, there are a few brands of that stuff, but probably the most widely used is called Kaowool. Here's a link to anvilfire, a supplier. I've ordered kaowool from them before. They have good service, and they even sent me a little extra anvilfire Store : Blacksmithing books, Video tapes, CD's, Refractories and anvilfire gear. buy the 1" thick material. Two layers is sufficient, but the more the better.

It WILL absolutely spontaneously combust. Somehow it generates heat as it dries...

Welcome Nathan. Do you or did you go to the school there (I believe it's the University of S. Illinois) that has the really nice metalsmithing class?

Glad to hear that...Cool.

Clean surfaces are key. Remember that borax (if you use borax) melts at 1300 something degrees F, and scale forms at 1500 something degrees F. So you have a window of about 200 F that you can apply the flux at without getting scale on the steel.

Try coming up with ideas at night.

Welcome. I'm from Macon. Where are you?

Holy shmokes. That is hellacious. When I got some time on my hands, maybe this summer, that's what I want to try. Just learn about it til then.

Sweet. That's a trip.

Pretty cool. Little choil transition there....cool.

I wonder if you could make one to run off of used motor oil. That would be super duper.

usually S-5 or S-7...mostly S-5

Wow, that is great. Can you please post a simple drawing and instructions of how the burner is put operates. I would greatly appreciate it.

yep, just slit a hole, then drifted it.
No problem, Alex.

There are several nice block anvils in that diesel engine.

It varies greatly. I've had some that were about 1040, some higher. Some junkyard steel charts say 1080. Check out my album in the gallery titled "Wood Choppers and more" I have some pictures in there of tomahawks I've made from large crow bars.

Alex, good job. Phew!...that's a heck of a lot of forging on a RR rail anvil.

Thanks quenchcrack. That's what I wanted to hear.

I once saw a master ABS bladesmith temper a blade three times after hardening. He used a torch to bring the edge up to non-magnetic while not spending much time worrying about the spine then quenched in oil. I assume this left a fairly hard edge and a softer spine as hardened. This was followed by polishing away the scale, heating the spine very slowly and watching the colors followed by quenching in water when the temper was correct in his eyes. He did this tempering step three times. It produced a blade that allowed a file to just barely bite on the edge but easily cut the spine area.

I assume this treatment also helps with grain formation - yes?

OK- normalizing 3 times- I need some scientific documentation or explanation from a world class bladesmith (such as JPH) why this is a good thing.

Might be because when the hole is drifted, it bulges out, then it is hammered back down evenly.

Andreas, whenever I do that on stock as thin as 1/4", I just do it cold- saves money does just as good.

I'd do what mike would- make flat bar out of round bar.

Holy smokes. That is blowing my mind.