Tyler Murch

Hellacious. I got a pair of 42" tongs from a guy. He also had some nearly as big as those, but didn't want to part with them. I'm working on it.

What's some good stuff you learned at Howard's?

When in doubt......it's a fake.

I want to add something else about the warmed oil quench. People ask me all the time how warmed oil is a faster quench than cool, room temp oil. It has to do with the thickness or the viscosity of the quenchant. The thicker the quenchant is, the slower it quenches the piece. What happens when you heat something?....The parts that make it up begin to move faster. When the oil is warmed up, the little parts that make it up begin to move faster, this makes it thinner and more viscous which makes it a faster quench. You can actually see the difference of the thickness of the oil with your own eye. Try this and see. Put a stirrer in room temp oil....lets say 70 deg. F. Lift the stirrer out, and watch the oil drip. Take note of how thick or thin it is. Then, do the same thing with oil that has been heated to 130 deg. F. Notice how much faster it runs off of the stirrer and how much thinner it is.

Now, back to the topic!

I guess it depends on what you are quenching. I fooled around some with 1050 for tomahawks. JPH, he know his stuff. He told me to use a saturated (will no longer dissolve anymore salt) solution, with a couple squirts of dish soap to lessen the surface tension. I wrote it down for future reference, but ended up remedying the problem by quenching warm water for three seconds, then going to warm oil (quench oil should always be warmed to about 130 deg F for quenching) for the rest.

Hey Stephan,
What makes a balanced knife?....?
Thanks,
Tyler

ps. You going to come to the Dec. OBG meeting?

I love that song..

Cool! :>)...

By the books- W-series tool steel, 1095, a few others maybe. Some folks water quench many oil hardening steels. Howard Clark and Randal Graham for example.

Mouse trap.

You have to keep turning it. Two or three times. Let the heat soak through also.

I would cut the top off and use it down lower to support work while hot cutting with swinging a sledge. Cut it to the right height for yourself (lower than regular anvil height because you will be striking chisels), and set it vertically in a bucket of concrete.

By the way, it wieghs about 230 lbs.

Awh man. And I just figured out how you are SUPPOSED to use it.

Get it hotter, hit it harder.

4WD is only to get you further into the woods before you get stuck.

If it doesn't smell good, it probably won't taste good.

Neato, Mike. Adirondack shelter style!!

There's a thread somewhere on here with a poll of what size hammers people use most in their shop.... You can never have enough hammers. Hammers are usually made of a medium carbon steel. Plain carbon, alloy, spring...

Richard..Check southerntoolsteel.com. what's about Kelly's 15N20?

I'm a big believer in not having to sacrifice function for form. The form should come from how the piece was creatively designed to be as functional as possible. What is the piece's reason for existence if it does not function?

Dude, looks like you got the fork lift fork bent...hellacious.

You shop color is purple. roflmao :>)

Wow.. that's great

Welcome, Stephan.

Cool, where did you get the idea for the fullered (I spose you fullered it) ferrule?

Argh! They used to make them in Alabama.