joreve

A fit test is just documenting that you have tried on the mask for the best fit possible. It is for insurance policies and plain documentation. A fit test can be performed by using an aerosol or other odor being dispensed by control. Most hepa masks and such have adjustable fits(such as straps and custom face pieces). The mask is then "fitted" until the odor being released can no longer be detected. I am a certidied OSHA hazmat first responder.

I think you are right about me leaning to one side. I need to balance my strikes.

So I am attempting to make a parrying rapier. Upon compressing the sides and drawing the steel out, the middle of the blade becomes fullered. One side is most defined by the fuller. The other side however has a shallow fuller and nearly completely flat. I am curious about the finer techniques that will allow me to develop the fuller on both sides equally with out the aid of a swage or die.

Thanks. All great ideas. I love the track plate.

My rail track anvil doesn't have a hardy hole. Are there alternative ways to use a swage with the anvil.

Ooo I'm excited now. Are there any coins that would be difficult to weld?

I wasn't thinking hard enough. I'll throw in another kind of alloy. I'll use some old pesos

Hello everyone. I have a question. I am messing with some scrap copper. I am heating and hammering and folding. So far I have folded three times. I am curious to know if this will create a pattern. The folds are welded and I'll fold the copper about twice more. I'm gonna turn the scrap piece of copper into a pendant. It's about 2"x3"x0.010" I'll add some pictures later

Thanks frosty. I appreciate the feed back even if you have answered many times before. I was eager to show what I slapped together. I actually use the forge shown almost everyday. It gets steel past critical temp and I mostly work with small items. I have a hard time trying to forge weld but I figure I'm not getting enough heat due to the material of my brick. I have found places to order from and even places to visit. As far as knowning any one in my area I'd love to meet with and talk with other locals. I don't really have a car but I will do my best to arrange something

Thanks frosty. I appreciate the feed back even if you have answered many times before. I was eager to show what I slapped together. I actually use the forge shown almost everyday. It gets steel past critical temp and I mostly work with small items. I have a hard time trying to forge weld but I figure I'm not getting enough heat due to the material of my brick. I have found places to order from and even places to visit. As far as knowning any one in my area I'd love to meet with and talk with other locals. I don't really have a car but I will do my best to arrange something

The red bricks are just for a work station.

The forges I have been reading about on here are primarily directed towards iron and steel. I am wondering if there is a differnce between your forges and perhaps the forge used by a silver smith, copper smith, or even gold perhaps

I'll try the side burner by Larry zoeller

Thanks for all the comments, I love constructive commments and criticism. I'm in Santa Barbara, California. I have been avidly reading all the threads and information I can get my hands on. Unfortunately I have been having such a hard time getting all the supplies. I was trained by two men in Chicago at a facility called firearts.org so I am familiar with metal working and the forges. I'm still very much a rookie though. I love experimenting and am slowing gonna get my forge up to party, but materials ya know

I need soft refractory brick or kaowool cause these bricks don't work.