Sam Thompson

Does anyone in the UK have a good supplier for cast components (like this:)?

At least they paid!

If you are at all uncertain about the exact form that a tool should take, experiment with MS to perfect the angles etc. As pkrankow says, you can get a fair bit of service, especially if you case-harden it and keep it cool.

Here are a couple of fireplaces that I've made over the years. They are in pubs in town and I took the pics while 'on tour', hence lack of focus etc. One of them has never been used as the chimney is blocked.

I'd fill in the large potholes with a dissimilar rod, peen it as it cools and grind it flush. The surface doesn't need to be mirror smooth but those holes look like they could cause problems.

The crack on the edge has suspiciously sharp corners and appears to be extending across the face. Don't touch it unless you can clean off the paint and get a better look.

I've never seen a Blacker with the motor mounted on top; is that a modification?

You'll have to excuse me, I'm English, but does an Alaskan accent sound a bit like Russian? Sorry, but I'm using the wonderful innovation of the broad-band enabled pub to write this!

I'd call that a tripod, Shear legs are an A-frame, where you lean them at an angle and attach the load to the apex, anchor the bottoms of the legs and pull the whole thing upright. The load rises and swings inward. Or: the frame is secured at an angle and a pulley at the top is used to lift the load.I'm probably wrong but I think the salient point is directing the force down the angled legs. Sorry, but I'm using the wonderful innovation of the broad band enabled pub to write this!

Shearlegs is another word for an A-frame. We once erected an arch over the entrance to a pub car-park using a tripod, there were only two of us; it was difficult trying to control the legs... The blokes in the bar really enjoyed it.

Here's an earlier version: I believe that this is the model currently issued to our army.

There's a PTO on Land Rovers, the hydraulic pump and reservoir for the winch sit behind/under the driver's seat. There's also a hole in the rear chassis member for the shaft to escape. LRs, unfortunately don't have brakes. What do you call shear legs in the US?

I get mine off the butcher, I'm a good customer and he gives me his used ones. Or: http://www.awsmith.co.uk/Sundries/Block+Brushes+%26+Plastic+Utensils

Find a large piece of steak, get the pan nice and hot, lie the meat on the surface for about 1min, turn the steak over and repeat. Reduce the heat and continue to heat and turn the steak until the pan is seasoned/rustproofed to taste. I prefer my utensils rustproofed medium rare.

I've just noticed two volume OED gives a definition for 'fuller' that is an excellent description of a swage; still, nobody's perfect.

Butchers use them for cleaning the block. If you can get a used one it'll make the place smell nice!

It's a very similar pattern to this 3lb cross-pein which is definitely a blacksmith's hammer. It's a horrible thing, I've tried several different sticks and I still find it unwieldy and awkward to use.

It's 1'' OD with a fairly fine thread that I don't recognise (although I'm afraid I didn't try very hard). The numbers read more like a part no than a model no; could it be a service tool for a specific machine? Happy hunting!

I'm sticking with stone hammer, the quarry that I was thinking of produces a type of granite called 'Dhustone' which was broken into setts and used all over Britain and Europe for paving. The thinner axe-like tools are used for cleaving slate and other sedimentary rocks.

You don't need pliers, just creep the metal over the far edge as you tap it downwards, when it's well started move onto the face and refine the scroll on the face. This shows how:

Try to keep an even heat all along the section that you are twisting, pour water on the areas that are deforming too fast. You need to upset the square corner a bit more. Before scrolling the ends, thin the stock evenly to a ribbon end and try to turn the scroll without any flats.

Apart from giving you a second or two to think, it resettles the hammer in your hand, realigning the faces of the hammer and anvil. it also keeps hammer and arm moving so that you don't lose the rhythm. I find that I only do it while using a flat faced hammer; full faced and peening hammers are for rougher operations and don't need so much accuracy or thought (and are more likely to cause damage).

I was once told that those were used for splitting stone in quarries, I've got no idea if that's correct, although I've seen two handled versions that were definitely used for that.

To kill the devil.

There's no brand name on it, just the numbers 07-1?39-9-0? cast into one of the legs. It's cast from Al with a steel insert for the thread and about 6'' of travel. I've got no idea what it was originally for. I frequently find myself about to use it for something and then finding a better tool for the job.