rustyshackleford
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Posts posted by rustyshackleford
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After I shave the handle to my liking, I burnish it with a smooth rod (doesn't really matter what kind, horn or bone works too) Compresses the fibres and whatnot; makes it look like you did some work and wore it smooth (which you/I should be doing anyways). Never saw merit in soaking the handle; should be properly wedged IMHO. (takes just as much effort)
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Most of us bemoan shelling out monies for our tools. A few of us try to use the HF and other import discount stuff, but in the long run, it isn't the right tool for the job.
Try an auction:
Public Surplus
AuctionZip
GovDeals
Surplus Record (machinery classifieds)
oh, and Tool King is cool
Did I miss some? -
Nickel melt- 2651F
1095 Steel melt- 2760F
midpoint temp is 2705F
just to throw numbers on the situation -
I do both of these things. The computer supplements a book/mag oftentimes, but I try to continually research new topics related to this and MANY other things. I could give a dissertation on how an axe is forged, the different styles, history, etc, but I have never made the time to do it. Time is my most precious resource.
I dug a hole before I had a forge.
used a rock before my anvil.
built some bellows before I fond a blower
made nails in the vise before I had a header.
etc.
It's all possible regardless of "limitations". Networking is also a powerful tool. Don't be afraid to ask someone for something, especially if it's just knowledge. -
Good input Jymm. I've considered exactly what you proposed, but have not yet taken the time to investigate pricing on any new hammers. I saw this one like I said, and wanted to see if it was worth following up on. It is appearant that it would not be the best investment for me at this time, so I will continue in my search.
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Interesting to note that by the farm book's figures, tool, etc. costs are effectively 100 times what they were back then
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the coping saw blades i've seen are pretty small. is there a picture you can show me?
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maybe they are to add wieghts, but that doesn't seem like a smart idea for a few reasons
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I've watched the videos of it on youtube, where they were grinding it. Wowee, I wouldn't want to b doing that with anything smaller than what they were using
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what brand is that Steve? Sounds like a good thing for a few of us to have
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Vivaldi, Dave Brubeck Orchestra, Bernstein, Apocalyptica, Rasputina, the Zep', Rush is sweet, String Tribute Quartet, Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britan, Sufjan Stevens, Marlon Asher, Elija Prohpet, The Mars Volta, Iron and Wine, Gogol Bordello, to name a few
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3/16= not a substantial amount of grinding.
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I saw some blades that looked almost too lose to be functional; there's a good chance that was the case. the idea of squaring it with the mini hydraulic press mentioned elsewhere, and using just the squared ends to be held in the vise/hardy and the other gripped w/ a twisting wrench crossed my mind. that'd be some hefty twisting..
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she won't even break down for one of these puppies? Old World Anvils - Stump Anvil
use it as inspiration for what you want to make -
is it possible to weld the cable only by twisting it? I want to say I saw someone say that, but can't trust my memory
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We're reminded of it every day by retailers (who else). It's coming! What do you want for christmas, blacksmith-wise? Pick your top three, or a few if they are specific tools. I'm interested to hear what you guys have to say :)
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I recently bought a hitachi 4.5 grinder, and put my old 4" dewalt disc on it, works fine. I went to put a new 4.5" delta cutting disc on it, and it is loose as heck! the 5/8" arbor (which was what the 4" disc hole was) was too small for the 7/8 disc. Checked the manual, and it says it's a 7/8!!! I don't get it. I even tried to put on the disc included with the grinder, and I can definitely feel an eccentricity when it runs, enough to make it uncomfortable to use.
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I'm liking the little twists.
When I make lid lifters pokers etc, people initially don't get that they don't put their hand through the "eye" of the handle. I don't quite know why they want a knuckle guard on a lid lifter, because I make them perfectly to fit the hand gripping it all the way around -
the pieces are well-proportioned to each other and the area around them
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How to Build a Coal Forge Plans
there's a start
to save you the trouble of reading it, decrease the depth flush, and to about 4-5" make a bowl or other recessed shape. in the center, install a pipe going down leading to your air source, and install some kind of ash dump and clinker breaker. -
if you check the 1000 series BPs you will find a reference to it; I'm not going to tell you which one, so you have to absorb them all! :)
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the lube is used for punches and drfits to prevent their binding to the work piece Paul. The "Moly"bdium(sp?) is mixed in solution with graphite, dishsoap, and water to make an effective mixture for the application. Uri Hofi is a proponent of it, and if I'm right, invented the mix
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I beleive that the style of hammer used was dependent on the country of origin for the smith, or his master. it's conjecture
Incompreshensible Metallurgy
in Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
Posted
and now, and for an example of proper information to show the discrepancy of the above statements