Jeff Mack

Thanks Woody and Thomas! Glad I asked before I spent. Jeff

I assumed there was enough o2 in the blown air to sustain a fire. I'm definatly not an expert on that kind of thing. I thought I had read it was a good idea. Was also worried that running a tank almost out could lower the output pressure enough to create an opportunity for disaster with a blower pushing from the other end. Since I am an office dweller most of the day, and don't work around this stuff except when I play, I tend to over engineer to the point of paranoia, but I figure that is better than going ka-boom. Jeff

Went to the local welding shop to get a 1/4" flash arrestor for a blown burner I'm working on. The least expensive one they have is more than the rest of my burner put together. Anyone know of a reasonable source for the things? Thanks! Jeff

Thanks everyone!

Groovy! Glad I asked first. Where does one find mass produced handles? That would save some time. Thanks! Jeff

Just got a tomahawk drift from Blacksmith's Depot, and had a question. It's not perfectly oval in cross section. One side comes to a point. Instrad of an oval, it's kind of a chubby tear drop shape. Should I grind down the raised point on the one side to make it oval, or is the ridge there for a reason? Thanks! Jeff

In my experience, pine burns a bit hotter and with more sparks than hardwood charcoal, but the hardwood stuff works great. Jeff

Thanks everyone! I think the mig tip I'm using might be the issue. I'm going to get the next smaller size, and bore it out if I need it. Jeff

Thanks! Have some stuff to try now. I may upgrade to a better design next. Thanks again! Jeff

Mine looks like the older style pictured on Larry Zoellers site. http://www.geocities.com/zoellerforge/flareon.jpg Thanks! Jeff

Thanks! Nc_cooter, on your comment "vary the insertion depth of your venturi until you get a stable flame"...Not sure I follow. I car reposition the flare, but I think that's the only thing that moves. Did I miss something? Thanks for helping! Jeff

Just finished my fist reil style LP burner. I was having a problem with it only staying lit at a low pressure (1 or 2 lbs), so I ordered a pro made flare for it (from Ellis). Got it mounted, and it's still blowing itself out if I crank it up past 2 lbs. Any ideas? I'm using a mig tip for the orafice. Thanks! Jeff

Wow. Good info.

Copper is a problem when casting? Wasn't aware of that. It's in most of the alloys people cast. Brass, bronze, sterling silver, etc... What's it do? Jeff

Some brass alloys can be worked cold to a point, then annealed and worked some more. True bronze (copper and tin) work hardens a lot slower in my experience. I've done repousse' on commercial bronze (really brass, but the zinc content is lower). IIRC, the zinc isn't really a problem until you heat it beyond what you need to anneal. Jeff

Since Thomas Powers brought it up in the Zinc thread, and I remember vagely that the vapors of cadmium are seriously bad news, I've got a few questions. What are the effects? Not sure I want to know details, but "kills ya dead", or "makes ya sick as heck" are good enough for me. And, what kind of parts have it included in their alloys. I've heard brasses and bronzes (also mentioned by Thomas) sometimes use it. I collect spent ammo brass for casting. This stuff ok? Jeff

Thomas, Does the box need to be truly sealed, or just real close. I'm paranoid about butting anything sealed in a forge. A little moisture could ruin my day. Thanks! Jeff

If you've ever melted brass in the crucible, that might be your zinc source. I've seen a lot of blue flame from zinc burning off during brass casting. Jeff

Thanks everyone! I'm not ready for snow yet. Night time temps are getting down to frost points. Ick!

How do I keep my slack tub from freezing in the winter?

That is a cool set up!

Good stuff, thanks for all the responses. Now off to find some thick stock to beat into a hammer shape. Thanks! Jeff

I've been looking at forging a norse hammer based on the Mastermyr find, and notices somthing in common with a lot of hammers of that age. They seem to have a peek where the hole is drifted for the handle. See pic here: Any thoughts as to why they are forged like that? Thanks! Jeff

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On a very clean piece of copper (I use a product called penny brite from an enameling supplier to prep the copper) I've used sharpie markers for detail work and tape for larger areas. Asphaultum is really the best thing I've used. If you need a source for it, check out thompson enamel. I've bought a lot of stuff from them, and they have been great. Jeff