theimi

Thx! 1. The frame is made from 100x50x2 rec. tube plus - on the glasspanel side - a 25x1.6 sq. tube which allows the glasspanel to be flush with the door. 2. The copper cover is glued with a special product, dont remember the brand at the moment but there are different good products out there... 3. One of my first projects when started blacksmithing was to build a 100# rusty-style hammer (for me the most fascinating part in the blacksmith trade is the work with the powerhammer) 4. The hinged panels accomodate ca. 7mm security glass, the only type and size you may use here 5. i have posted close up of the handles yesterday http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/recent-work-7568/ Found today another pic of a similar mild steel only door i made last year (unfortunately i have only a few pics of my work since im working in SA) cheers frank

So i was installing the handles today. Yes, on sunday! but the customer is the boss... Unfortunately it is difficult to make a good pic from the door as it sits in the shady entrance and lots of light is coming through the house from the opposite side. The base of the door is made from ms tubing, the copper sheet is being used as cover. The stops (?) are from stainless tube, the center part is stainless flat bar, the grilles are forged from 16mm and the handles from 25mm stainless round bar. copper collars are used to hide the welds of the scrolls. I used no finish to allow time and weather to form the patina. The door accommodates to glass panels which can be opened indepedantely whereas the security grille stays closed. Security is a big issue here in South Africa but folks does also like fresh air Happy weekend (now!) frank

Hi all, building the website takes much longer than expected, so i thought i will post some recent work so long. this are two handles made from 1in stainless steel for a copper/stainless entrance door i built in the first quarter this year. hope to post some pics with door after installation. cu

BP for (ball) swages: I advise the "Blacksmith's Manual Illustrated". Very old (first print 1930) but VERY useful. Downloadable in pdf for free... Info: Book review on anvilfire Blacksmith's Manual Illustrated by J.W. Lillico find the pdf on (besides different other blacksmith books) Craft publications frank

I have realized when doing art (and blacksmithing is doing art) the best thing is to use your name... So i split my business in two parts: the (ornamentel) fabrication part is named the "CAPE VILLAGE FORGE" whereas 'Cape' stands for Cape Town, South Africa. All fabrication work is done here with or without employers. the second part is the pure blacksmithing part in which i'm working more or less on my own. FRANK THEIMER - ARTIST BLACKSMITH/METAL DESIGN In the end these are trading names only. If i need it for business, for example if the customer needs a TAX invoice, it will run as "Theimer Investments SA (Pty.) Ltd." which may be used officially for the first or the second trading name...

Glenn: sorry, one mistake. 1 inch = 25,4 mm or 2,54 cm (NOT 2,54mm) frank

hi... on Anchor Bronze and Metals, Inc. (no, i don't have any relationship to them) you find lots of data and tables about all copper, brass and bronze alloys with chemical composition, material-, mechanical-, physical- and fabrication properties (e.g. cold working and hot forging properties, how to weld .... a.s.o.) very useful hth frank