48willys

The last picture are S-Cams used in air brakes to push the shoes out. Don't hold me to it but I think they are much like axle steel.

Also when you replace those bolts remember not to overtighten them, because you run the risk of busting the pan or the fire pot.

Thanks Mike,I'll keep that it mind.I was looking at that motorcycle chain knife I started a while back,and was thinking maybe I could cut the bad cold shuts off, draw it out and make like a vegetable knife.It wouldn't have as nice a pattern as something bought but I don't think it would be bad.

I like this thread,we should keep it going. It seems like the last year or so I could have used a few of these ideas. Another friend is getting married soon,and I know he wants a Damascus knife of some sort,but I haven't got the skills yet to take on a project like that.I think I'll try Frosty's roasting forks,something that is alittle closer to my skills.

I'v had it for a month now but just got some pictures. I cleaned and fixed things and made a table useing 101 parts.Any idea what it is?There aren't any numbers on it like most Champion drills.

Just a guess but it looks like a ACME brand,I'v seen pictures in Sears books that look much like it.Here is mine,its a little like yours but I don't have the belt on it in the picture It was used as a flower planter so it was really rusted,I had to put alot of oil on it.Just go slow with it and keep putting the penetrating spry on it,you don't want to break anything.

If you can't find the gear maybe you could make one or have one cut at a machine shop.I had a link somewhere that you can use to make a template for making gears,I'll post it here if I find it. Found it,It's for making wooden gears but I don't think the blower is that tight that you can't file the teeth to mesh right. http://woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html

I paid $450 six months ago.Mine is a 175-180 pound Trenton.I don't think it is a crack,mine has spots there that look alittle like that.I hear they were forge welded there,it might only be a cold shut.Like Fe-wood said, see if it rings,mine rings very easy.

No the advance arm is still on it and works.The part I'm talking about is that drive that looks like it would turn the feed wheel to bring the drill back to the top.If you look at the second picture you can see the drive on the left next to the flywheel.

I got a Champion post drill last night.It needs work and its missing some parts. I was thinking someone here might have one and could tell me how this one part works,it looks like some type of power return.But I don't know because mine is missing some parts in that area.I probably won't fix that part because I am missing the two gears and the bottom drive gear is missing teeth.It shouldn't affect how it works,I'll just have to turn the feed wheel by hand to bring it back up.This is a picture of the same model,but is not mine,it's just one I found doing a search.OWWM - Photo Index - Champion Blower & Forge Co. - post drill Anyone know how it would have worked?

The disposable filters always work ok for me,the only thing I can think of is you have to change them before they stop working.It's been a while since I did any painting but I think the new ones change color before they won't hold anymore water.

I can see the point he is trying to make,but as he pointed out at the end,the right fire pot can start at around $100 and that isn't with a blower that can run from $45-80(prices from around here,they can be higher or lower in your area).So what I'm saying is if you haven't got the money to do it right,you need to start somewhere.The brake drum forge can be hard to build right,but can be done and still get good results. Another thing to keep in mind, you aren't stuck with the brake drum forge, there are many good forges out there that can be built cheaply and will work great,some that you can search,washtub forge, BP0133 the 55 Forge, and there was one just a little while ago that was built from a push mower and lined with mud or something else can't remember.But do a little search on this site and I'm sure you can find plans to build something that fits your budget. Oh and welcome.

The way I did the shop,I mounted a 75' hose reel in the rafters centered in the building.I have a regular air hose feeding the hose reel and the regulator on the compressor.It works great for most of what we do with it,the best part is I can pull it out the front door or the back and still have enough to reach a good distance outside.Just with painting we use a hose pluged into the compressor with a disposable dryer/filter at the gun.That hose reel is the best though,the air hose never would get put up and would always be under/over/around everything.Now it gets put away.

Well I worked on stitching it back together with the nickle rod and I think it will hold.I'm not so sure about the smaller cracks at the bolt holes but I'll use large washers to keep the pressure off the cracks. Only one other thing,would it hurt anything to line the pan?It's really thin in spots and I think that the heat might have had a part in the crack,because the big one showed up while it was cooling.

I don't know anything about post drills,but every one I'v seen and was told it was original condition,had a much larger flywheel.With that in mind,yours might have the wrong flywheel.Could be someone wanted to run it with a motor.

That's true,I didn't think about it might melt.I never could get it near welding heat though,but that might be the tuyere,because I have it together wrong.I'll try the rods and see how it works.

That was my first thought,use the Nickel rods,but I'v never tried to do somthing this large or this shape.So my two best options would be to get the whole thing hot and braze it or use Nickel rods and keep it cool like when welding sheetmetal?

I'm wanting to fix my little forge that I started on, and needed a little help. First, the pan is cracked badly,it go's all the way from the center of the pan to the outside.Also about my air gate,how should it be made?I'm guessing that I have it wrong and the blower should be bolted to the pan and the grate sits on the pan.How would I fix the pan?"]http:// I know I have a few things wrong,because at the time I fixed it up,I had found it in a dump, it was broken apart and all I had to go by was a reprint of a picture in a 1909 sears catalog.Also what should I make my drive belt from?